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Old 02-10-2003   #1 (permalink)
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Hi, id like to know what the rules are for supercharging a mustang. how new does the engine have to be?
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Old 02-10-2003   #2 (permalink)
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the rule is, tuning tuning tuning. What i mean by tuning is that you want to have the right injectors, at least 30lb. You also need full ingnition with boost timing retard (would be good) a fuel pump 190 or above.
If the engine is old, dont run more than 6lbs, especially if its stock. Others on the board may disagree with this, but in my opinion 6 lbs is reliable and wont blow anything up, anything more is risky.The optimal engine for running more boost will have forged internals, but a stock engine with over 100k miles can be supercharged and it can be reliable... but you need to make sure the engine is tuned correct and mainly is getting enough fuel. the same applies to nitrous.... fuel fuel fuel, tuning tuning tuning.

Just my 2 cents...
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Old 02-10-2003   #3 (permalink)
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boost is not the enemy.................detonation is!!!!!!!!
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Old 02-10-2003   #4 (permalink)
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theres no rule. the closet thing to a rule is that the engine is good shape. sounds cheesy but you can supercharger a 100k motor just as safely as a 20k motor, as long as that 100k is well balanced and maintained well....the ideal block for a super is forged pistons with main supports. DSS makes awesome blocks. look into them. im gonna eventually pick one up. there pro bullet would hold up easily under boost. thgats what im gonna do. bullet short block in early summer than a blower as soon as i can afford it. weee!!!
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Old 02-10-2003   #5 (permalink)
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To many people only use one fuel pump and run to much timing. I suggest a T-rex and a 255 in tank. If not, use a twin T-rex set up. Discard the FMU and use correct size injectors for your power level.
One other mistake people do is not adding measured positive boost in with there fuel pressure regulator (vacuum).
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Old 03-02-2003   #6 (permalink)
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I have been supercharged for 214,000 miles so far and still going. The motor has been built for the blower the second time. I pushed 9-lbs. through the stock motor for 90,000 miles, and currently I have been pushing 12-13-lbs. of boost through it (not all the time) for 114,000 miles. The current motor is built for the blower and as of Friday, this last week was still getting over 450HP to the tire, so I am happy for now.

Most think you can just bolt on a blower and go run it... NOT. Like rios said, it's all about tuning and fuel. Building a motor with lower compression and forged everything, hardened pushrods, increased induction in the form of an intake manifold and larger throttle body, high-flowing aluminum cylinder heads, and upgraded ignition system can aid you in tuning and keeping the evil detontation away, especially the "black death" (ie when a cylinder gets toasted). Building the bottom end will also help utilize higher boost applications without kicking anything out the sides of your motor. Also, having ARP head studs and better grade head gaskets, running ONLY Supreme fuel, boost retard ignition, larger in-tank pump (255lph), additional fuel delivery in th form of larger fuel lines (1/2" works well), will have a better chance of holding everything together.
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Old 03-02-2003   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by rios
the rule is, tuning tuning tuning. What i mean by tuning is that you want to have the right injectors, at least 30lb. You also need full ingnition with boost timing retard (would be good) a fuel pump 190 or above.
If the engine is old, dont run more than 6lbs, especially if its stock. Others on the board may disagree with this, but in my opinion 6 lbs is reliable and wont blow anything up, anything more is risky.The optimal engine for running more boost will have forged internals, but a stock engine with over 100k miles can be supercharged and it can be reliable... but you need to make sure the engine is tuned correct and mainly is getting enough fuel. the same applies to nitrous.... fuel fuel fuel, tuning tuning tuning.

Just my 2 cents...
I totally agree...
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