1989 Mustang 5.0 with Kenne bell 2.1: suggestions for block please.
I just picked up a Kenne Bell 2.1 for my car. I was involved in an accident about 1 1/2 month ago and will take the next 7 to 8 months to put it back together. I plan on pulling the block and having it hot-tanked and bored .030 over...the only thing, should I run with the 306 or stroke it? Or do I even get it bored out at all and just change all the bearings and such.
The problem is simply cash$$$ From the onset of purchasing this car, I gave myself an annual budget of X$'s per year. With a a fair amount of change left over from the accident, and a fair bit of repairs to be done, I'm debating with myself what to do!
Very simply, I will be doing full tubular front (control arms and k-member) end, coil-overs and spindles. Including paint (debating a garage job this year- double ) and misc, I will have a little left over that will help with the 42# injectors, 90MAF, 75MM TB, and tune. I have a set of heads that have been worked over that will include new springs and rocker arms.
With the Kenne Bell, what do I really need to do to my block to make it last for a year or two - possible three, at which time I will have another "budget" to build a new motor? My goal the entire time has been to run around 400-425HP...and I will be throwing a new tranny in at somepoint over the next 3 years...
The only part of the equation that doesn't come clear to me is the block...any suggestions will help...but, a new set of heads is out of the question at this time - $$$.
Thanks guys, and I definitely can't wait until I hear it start for the first time. Before I forget, the blower :
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89 LX Coupe - headers, Full 2 1/2 Flowmaster, UDP's, Sportline Springs, Adjustable shocks/struts, Alum. DS, Cobra Upper and Lower intake w/ 65 TB, Steeda Alum U&L arms, U&L Battle Boxes, BBK CC Plates, MM Bumpsteer, Steeda Adjustable R. Swaybar, FRPP 3.73's, front control arm bushings, Earls SS brake lines, 73mm Lincoln Calipers, SSBC rear disk kit, Steeda Triax shifter, Steeda Firewall adjuster and quadrant, Gforce 255-50's in back, 225's 50's in front.
An old trick used by the pro-stock guys, as well as funny car and top fuel, is to have your block cryogenicaly frozen. It will last forever, and it's cheap to do. If you can afford a stroker kit, do that. If not leave it at a 306. Just make sure whatever block you use, have it sonic tested. Old blocks have a tendency to develop internal rust spots in the water jackets, and develop weak spots in the cylinder walls.
If you buy a stock block, and who ever you buy it from, make sure they agree that you can have the block sonic tested before you pay for it.
Lastly, if you have the block cryo frozen, all the machining is done AFTER the process.
Here is some info on the process One Cryo Cryogenic Tempering Inc. Look in the racing section. since it changes the hardness of the block by at least 5 points on the hardness scale.
It's like buying a $1500.00 A302 block. Mine held up for six years at 600 fwhp + a 150 shot.
I thought I had heard of everything...Im going to have to read up on cyrogenic tempering...although I doubt anyone around here has the ability to do that.
A stroker is definitely in the cards, but not for another 2-3 years. A friend of mine actually suggested I shelve the KB until I have the motor built, I was like "are you kidding...I didn't spend that kind of money to sit on the shelf!!!".
The way I see it, the motor may need to be rebuilt in a year or two, but the blower should survive a few transplants so why not use it now.
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89 LX Coupe - headers, Full 2 1/2 Flowmaster, UDP's, Sportline Springs, Adjustable shocks/struts, Alum. DS, Cobra Upper and Lower intake w/ 65 TB, Steeda Alum U&L arms, U&L Battle Boxes, BBK CC Plates, MM Bumpsteer, Steeda Adjustable R. Swaybar, FRPP 3.73's, front control arm bushings, Earls SS brake lines, 73mm Lincoln Calipers, SSBC rear disk kit, Steeda Triax shifter, Steeda Firewall adjuster and quadrant, Gforce 255-50's in back, 225's 50's in front.
I be dipped in you know what...there is one in Wasila, Alaska. Sarah Palin's home town. Small world. I would contact them, because I found 3 companies in the Portland, OR area that were not listed on their site. A lot of large racing shops offer the service.
Just as a funny side note...a few years they couldn't figure out why a certain softball team was hitting more home runs by like double of the closest team. They finally figured out that they had their aluminum bats cryo frozen.
I'm also debating keeping my stock block, running the charger then when the time comes, stroker...oh man, so many decisions
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89 LX Coupe - headers, Full 2 1/2 Flowmaster, UDP's, Sportline Springs, Adjustable shocks/struts, Alum. DS, Cobra Upper and Lower intake w/ 65 TB, Steeda Alum U&L arms, U&L Battle Boxes, BBK CC Plates, MM Bumpsteer, Steeda Adjustable R. Swaybar, FRPP 3.73's, front control arm bushings, Earls SS brake lines, 73mm Lincoln Calipers, SSBC rear disk kit, Steeda Triax shifter, Steeda Firewall adjuster and quadrant, Gforce 255-50's in back, 225's 50's in front.
Just as a funny side note...a few years they couldn't figure out why a certain softball team was hitting more home runs by like double of the closest team. They finally figured out that they had their aluminum bats cryo frozen.
That's funny haha!
anyway, the stock 5.0 block is only good up to 450-500 hp right?
whats it cost to be frozen? roughly?
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1988 red GT AOD. Mods: Ported GT40P Heads, 3-Angle Valve Job, E303 Cam, Edlebrock Performer 5.0 Intake, 65mm BBK EGR, Professional Products 65mm TB, MAC CAI, 80mm MAF, 24lb Injectors, 255lph Federal Mogul Fuel H.O. Fuel Pump, BBK Shorties, O/R H-pipe, Flowmasters, Dumps, Timing-16*, Shift kit, 4.10 gear, Sub-frames, Aluminum racing radiator, B&M Trans cooler, Pro-Form Upper and Lower Control Arms, Energy Suspension Urethane Suspension Components Recent: MSD 6AL Ignition, Battery Relocation
I wouldn't push my luck. They are strong but have a weak spot on the valley. They usually split down the middle. 425-450. The freezing cost me $1.50 per pound.