I want to make sure that i add my mods in the right order and was wandering could you guys help me. I would like to put on a CAI, exhuast with not cats, a tune, headers and throttle body. I however do not want to lose any horsepower due to lack of compression if that is even an issue. I just heard that from somone and I'm just learning about all this. Thanks for the time and hope to hear something new soon.
I want to make sure that i add my mods in the right order and was wandering could you guys help me. I would like to put on a CAI, exhuast with not cats, a tune, headers and throttle body. I however do not want to lose any horsepower due to lack of compression if that is even an issue. I just heard that from somone and I'm just learning about all this. Thanks for the time and hope to hear something new soon.
Your going to get a lot of input on this one! Many people think certin mods should be if different orders when adding them to your car.
I say, cai, under drive pullies, short throw shifter, and gears for the first mod group,
Second mod group, would be sub frame connectors, exhust: what do you want a "h" pipe" or a "x pipe", "H" will give you more of a deep sound, and "x" pipe will give you more of a raspy sound(even more with a o/r x pipe). The headers: what do you want long tubes or shortys?
Long tubes will give you more HP vs shortys over all. Most here will say go with the long tubes. Long tubes will give you more power in the top end vs. shortys. The that can be fixed with the gears becasue it can bring your power level to the lower end which is good if your racing on street or strip. But dont buy a cheap pair of headers go with a ceramic or a stainless steal kind. There alittle more in price but it helps keep you heat in the tubes which you want, the car suspension. Then a tune.
(I if you plain on super charging the car get the long tubes it will help alot. If you plain on turboing the car just wait on the headers because turbos use a different kind. The exhust size of your tube should be 2 1/2" no more then 3" that's when you start to lose back pressure which you need. Your throttle body will be fine for now.
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When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty.
--Thomas Jefferson
If i was to start over i would do exhaust first(catback, midpipe, headers), then a cai/throttle body with a tune and then some gears. This will really wake up your car. Then after that and your ready for more, go for the suspension. Get some lowering springs, subframe connectors for handling. Actually this is the way i modded my car at first, i like to do the exhaust first thing for the sound and you will notice some extra power to the wheels.
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-04 Mustang GT-Intercooled Kenne bell 2.1L supercharged @10psi, C&L cold air intake, mass air flow, Sumitt racing 75mm throttle body, Magnaflow catback with Bassani X-pipe, chip and dyno tuned, 3:73 gears, B&M short shifter, FMS lowering springs and UPR caster camber plates, UPR upper/lower control arms, UPR subframe connectors. Kumho 275 up front/Kumho XS 315 in rear. Currently 420RWHP/435lbtq
-Daily Driver 04 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner, Blacked out, TRD suspension, K&N filter.
i agree with svt1995, do his "first mod group' then follow after that with everything else he said. Personally i would do longtubes and a MAC prochamber, damn they sound good!
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1988 red GT AOD. Mods: Ported GT40P Heads, 3-Angle Valve Job, E303 Cam, Edlebrock Performer 5.0 Intake, 65mm BBK EGR, Professional Products 65mm TB, MAC CAI, 80mm MAF, 24lb Injectors, 255lph Federal Mogul Fuel H.O. Fuel Pump, BBK Shorties, O/R H-pipe, Flowmasters, Dumps, Timing-16*, Shift kit, 4.10 gear, Sub-frames, Aluminum racing radiator, B&M Trans cooler, Pro-Form Upper and Lower Control Arms, Energy Suspension Urethane Suspension Components Recent: MSD 6AL Ignition, Battery Relocation
I have 2005 saleen s281 n/a want to do cai wich is better steeda kit or c&l trueflow
Start a thread in the area that your question is for they should be able to tell you more on that. I havnt used eather so I couldbt tell you. Basicly all cold airs are the same dont look at the hp gains each brand gives you "remember they want your money for them selfs vs. the other guys". Just keep in mind when you are buying one ask if it has to be calberated for your car. Some are just bolt and go.
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When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty.
--Thomas Jefferson
I would have to say, do the exhaust and tune first. From what I have seen from many mustangs in my town, they make the most bang for the buck for bolt-ons. I would have to say do not put on underdrive pullies till later on down the road. Everyone told me to put them on my car so I did, and I saw no difference. I have proof of this too. I bracket race, and saw no improvement on ET's other than the normal weather variations. The only thing i noticed, was that my battery did not charge as well. I deffinatly do not recomend them if you have, or plan on relocating the battery to the back, unless you get a larger alternator, with a smaller pully.
I would have to say, do the exhaust and tune first. From what I have seen from many mustangs in my town, they make the most bang for the buck for bolt-ons. I would have to say do not put on underdrive pullies till later on down the road. Everyone told me to put them on my car so I did, and I saw no difference. I have proof of this too. I bracket race, and saw no improvement on ET's other than the normal weather variations. The only thing i noticed, was that my battery did not charge as well. I deffinatly do not recomend them if you have, or plan on relocating the battery to the back, unless you get a larger alternator, with a smaller pully.
I think the charging thing has to do with his own car sort of speak.
I've had mine on for over two year and never had a problem with charging. I think they go well with the cai. I've seen alittle better improve when they where both on. But then again every motor is different!
But then again if you plan on s/c the car keep the stock one's on you'll need them vs. the u/d pullies
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When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty.
--Thomas Jefferson
Sounds good, I just however bought some BBK shorty headers. Was that a bad move? I have not yet but today I put on a K&N CAI, Changed my exhaust to an x pipe with no cats and a tune. I like the x pipe when i'm on it but I would like to get a deeper sound when just crusing will it be a lot to change it to an H pipe?
Sounds good, I just however bought some BBK shorty headers. Was that a bad move? I have not yet but today I put on a K&N CAI, Changed my exhaust to an x pipe with no cats and a tune. I like the x pipe when i'm on it but I would like to get a deeper sound when just crusing will it be a lot to change it to an H pipe?
Shortys are fine. It's just long tubes give you a few more hp and they work alot better with a super charger because of the flow it gives. I have shortys on my when I bought it from the guy. I went with the long tubes and I like them alot better. I can get up in rpms alot faster with the long tubes vs. the shortys. Changing your mufflers to a flowmaster 44 will give you a better deep tone while crusing. I like the flow master american thunders when I had my h pipe LOVED the tone it gave while stomping on it and at crusing speed. With them now on the o/r x it's realy deep/ raspy while crusing and stomping on it and about a block and a half away you know I'm coming! Your car should have came with a h pipe stock. Shortys are fine but I'm always going to stick with the longtubes. And yes long tube can still pass your state testing. Some people here say you wont but you will. Just not with that o/r x pipe you got. That will make you fail the test.
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When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty.
--Thomas Jefferson
Before you go buying a whole lot of bolt-ons, figure out if you ever want to put forced induction on the car. Then figure out what mods will support that end goal as the paths are somewhat similar, but a lot of money can be saved in the long run on mods that would need to be redone or removed completely.
Exhaust is ALWAYS a great mod, not so much for the power, but the instant gratification of the sound. I prefer Mac exhaust to anything else because it's raw and aggressive.
Gears are also a very worthy mod, this is one where forced induction vs NA will make a difference. You don't want a real steep gear such as a 4.10 or 4.30 with any blower unless it's a strip car. 3.90 and 3.73 is as far as I would go with a centrifugal setup, either turbo or supercharge. If you chose a positive displacement blower ( Kenne Bell, Roush, Saleen, Eaton, Whipple) I would do a 3.55 gear because traction will become a major issue.
Throttle body is pretty cut and dried, 75mm is the best choice. The power that you gain is minimal but the throttle response is a very big difference.
If you decide on forced induction, you need to figure out if you're going to do positive displacement or centrifugal. The positive displacement blowers will pretty much delete this. The centrifugals will leave the part in place so it's a worthy upgrade for a centrifugal setup for much the same reason as the throttle body.
Suspension work is always a good idea, upper and lower control arms in the rear are a must even for stock 'Stangs and will help you hook up much better. Full length weld in subframe connectors will make a world of difference on a convertible, not so much on a coupe unless you go forced induction. Lowering springs are a personal decision, there are many different sets out there that offer several different ride heights. The big decision here is which headers you do, if you do headers at all. Long tubes are not conducive to speed bumps if you have a major drop spring installed, shorties won't be so much of a problem.
The short throw shifter is definitely good to do regardless of the end game.
CAI is also a worthy mod. I prefer JLT myself. I had a Mac for years before getting the JLT and was amazed at the difference.
Underdrive pulleys are good mods. Stay away from any piggy back style and look for the direct replacement kits. Beware though, if you go forced induction, you'll need to keep the OE crank pulley so you don't mess with the blower drive pulley ratio.
Stay away from anyone recommending a 160F thermostat. That will not allow your car to reach optimum combustion chamber temps and actually hurt performance unless you're boosting or spraying.
That's about all I can think of at the moment. If you have any questions just let me know.
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Sometimes I think that government fits that old-fashioned definition of a baby: An alimentary canal with an appetite at one end and no sense of responsibility at the other.
- Ronald Reagan
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