Well I put in my order for a Powerdyne yesterday with Proficient Performance.
Before anyone goes and starts throwing bottles and cans just give me a chance here. I got this thing because supposedly the belt drive chargers have had lots of improvements, its easy to install and I don't need a full on race car but will have a mild street car and the cfm and boost numbers seemed to match what I'm gonna be running motorwise. I don't want the gear noise and want to keep the stock hood and hopefully keep my car in sleeper mode.
I ordered a 6 lb kit with a 9lb pulley swapped for the 6. I also ordered a bypass valve, 255 in tank pump and a pressure regulator.
I hope that I'm dealing with a good vendor and that I'll get my system in one or two weeks. Wish me luck!
__________________
95 GT Convertible
BBK shorties, X-pipe, Magnaflow CB
CAI, 70mm TB, GT40 intake, 1.7 RR, UD pulleys
SFC/braces/JR, AUC Arms
1966 C Coupe - New restoration project
2004 Chev Silverado 4X4
Congrats on the purchase. As long as you know what you're getting into, be happy with it. I know I did when I bought mine back in 2000. I did a lot of research and knew about the internal belt problems. I also found many people who never had a problem as well so I took the chancel. Luckily, mine ran like a champ and was able to sustain 400rwhp without as much as a hiccup. That included h/c/i/e with a 6lb Powerdyne, 7" crank pulley, and a powerpipe. Hell, a guy on the Corral made 400rwhp with only a 6lb Powerdyne with a very similar combo to mine but had better heads and a bit more timing. If you ever want to upgrade to more power, go XB-1a. That's a solid powerful supercharger in the same league as the S-trim.
By the way, Proficient is great. I ordered my XB-1 from them. It took a while to get but they were always ready with info when I needed it. Just be careful with Powerdyne though, never let them know more than they need to know. Like for instance, lets say your internal belt broke under the 2 year warranty but you told them you were running an aftermarket larger crank pulley; they will certainly try to deny the warranty. Also, if you buy a 6lb Powerdyne and swap the 9lb pulley yourself, that voids the warranty. Apparently, they have to do it for the warranty to remain intact. Meaning you have to pay for s & h. Also, just be careful and don't overspin the blower at its max rpm of 42,000rpm. If you had upgraded bearings and internal belt, probably wouldn't have a problem. Good luck.
__________________
There are only three things the copilot should ever say:
1. Nice landing, Sir.
2. I'll buy the first round.
3. I'll take the ugly one.
Got 2 of the 4 parts on Monday. This evening I got the tracking # for the charger system and should have the last piece, the regulator, hopefully by the weekend.
Here's what I'll have to put on:
6 lb Powerdyne kit with 9 lb pulley. No chip.
255 lph in tank pump
Powerdyne bypass valve
Kirban pressure regulator
1.7 Proform roller rockers
GT40 intake
24 lb injectors
73 mm C&L MAF (not flanged for a 87-93 though)
already have:
70mm TB
fully mod'd exhaust, BBK shorties, highflow cats, Dr Gas X pipe and Magnaflow 2.5 inch CB.
Mac underdrive pulleys
I have been told to do the following:
1. compression test the motor, then put in the 1.7's if all is ok and install the intake and run.
2. then swap back to the stock pulleys before putting the charger system on the car.
3. install the 255 pump, regulator
4. then install the charger
5. several guys have suggested that the stock 19lb injectors with the pressure regulator, 255 tank pump, stock MAF, Powerdyne FMU will all work just fine.
Would I be better off getting a larger MAF adjusted for the 24 lb injectors? What other things should I consider/do or be careful with?
__________________
95 GT Convertible
BBK shorties, X-pipe, Magnaflow CB
CAI, 70mm TB, GT40 intake, 1.7 RR, UD pulleys
SFC/braces/JR, AUC Arms
1966 C Coupe - New restoration project
2004 Chev Silverado 4X4
I wouldn't use the proform roller rockers. I seen too many of those damn things break. They are cheap... But that's the problem. They are made out of cheap material. I wouldn't recommend them to anyone.
Were they installed properly? Were they pedastal or stud mount? Were they on stock heads or ??? Exactly how many have you seen fail and how many have you seen all together?
I'm not trying to be a wise-a$$ here just trying to evaluate this before I go installing these things.
__________________
95 GT Convertible
BBK shorties, X-pipe, Magnaflow CB
CAI, 70mm TB, GT40 intake, 1.7 RR, UD pulleys
SFC/braces/JR, AUC Arms
1966 C Coupe - New restoration project
2004 Chev Silverado 4X4
After all is said and done, I would definitely recommend a custom dyno tune, if able of course. I would not depend on a mail order chip. They can work but it's often hit and miss. Here is my very first dyno after adding my 6lb Powerdyne (you can see the power gained by tuning):
I already had an aftermarket mail order chip and the car ran horrible; it backfired, ran extremely rich, stalled, bucked during acceleration, etc. After the tune, ran perfect. I also wouldn't expect the kit to be perfect. Meaning, I had a belt throwing problem so I took it to a very good mustang shop. They found the culprit to be a bad tensioner pulley so they made me a custom one. It took a couple weeks to sort everything else out but in the end, it was worth it. Good luck.
__________________
There are only three things the copilot should ever say:
1. Nice landing, Sir.
2. I'll buy the first round.
3. I'll take the ugly one.
The guys at Proficient Performance sold me basically a 6lb kit which does not come with a chip. The kit did have the head unit come with a 9lb pulley (supposedly...I need to check that out before install) instead of a 6lb pulley. I bought the 255lph pump and bypass separately so I save about $400 over just buying a 9lb kit. I also got another $200 on a special sale. I also purchased a Kirban pressure regulator. I spent right around $2200 for the whole deal (the charger kit ended up being about $1900).
I got my kit yesterday, bypass and pump a few days ago and am just waiting on the regulator. I got everything in less than 5 business days except for the regulator. So delivery turn around was very good!
Only thing was I did not get any kind of a packing list. I think I'm gonna call Powerdyne and see if they can fax me one. I don't want to get my car torn down just to find out something is missing
I did read the instructions and it did not seem very difficult. Like I said above though, I think I will install my rockers and GT40 intake first and make sure the rockers are adjusted and I have no vacuum leaks and the car runs well, then I'll put the charger on and play with it some more. There is a place in Sunnyvale that does a lot of dyno tuning for Mustangs. I'm wondering if I should try to get ECC tuner for the dyno tuning instead of getting a chip? What do you guys think?
__________________
95 GT Convertible
BBK shorties, X-pipe, Magnaflow CB
CAI, 70mm TB, GT40 intake, 1.7 RR, UD pulleys
SFC/braces/JR, AUC Arms
1966 C Coupe - New restoration project
2004 Chev Silverado 4X4
That's a great price for the kit. I paid $1800 for the Ford Motorsport kit and then had to buy all the extra's. I think in the end it cost about $22-2300, not including the dyno tune. The chip and tune was about $500 but was the most required part for the set-up, IMO. I've heard of good success with the ECC tuner as well. I read more and more about guys performing their on tuning with things like the tuner and having little problems. If I were going to go to a tuner, I wouldn't just go to any tuner unless he had a lot of good recommendations.
The install isn't too difficult though I had a very knowledable buddy help me out. My kit was missing several bolts and screws but nothing major. It was just frustrating to keep throwing belts after the install was complete. Ended up being no big deal after taking it to an expert though. Just so you know, the belt should be nice and tight to avoid the belt squeal and to keep the boost up. Use a hammer and chisel to tighten it down. Powerdyne uses an old fashion tensioner, cheap I guess. Obviously place a towel over the chisel so you don't damage the bracket like I did. You will know what I'm talking about when your done. Again, good luck.
__________________
There are only three things the copilot should ever say:
1. Nice landing, Sir.
2. I'll buy the first round.
3. I'll take the ugly one.
The before and after dyno charts sort of speak for themselves with respect to getting a dyno tune. I pretty knew it, but just did not realize how significant it was until looking at your charts. I just need to find someone in the Bay Area or Northern CA that is very skilled and can squeeze every last ounce of HP out of my setup and keep me streetable too!
__________________
95 GT Convertible
BBK shorties, X-pipe, Magnaflow CB
CAI, 70mm TB, GT40 intake, 1.7 RR, UD pulleys
SFC/braces/JR, AUC Arms
1966 C Coupe - New restoration project
2004 Chev Silverado 4X4
Originally posted by GT Dan The before and after dyno charts sort of speak for themselves with respect to getting a dyno tune. I pretty knew it, but just did not realize how significant it was until looking at your charts. I just need to find someone in the Bay Area or Northern CA that is very skilled and can squeeze every last ounce of HP out of my setup and keep me streetable too!
I believe there are a few well know tuners in your area. I believe APEX Motorsport is one of them. They use Autologic chips. Good luck.
__________________
There are only three things the copilot should ever say:
1. Nice landing, Sir.
2. I'll buy the first round.
3. I'll take the ugly one.