I spliced into my headlights to add my gauges which needed an additional power supply. But that will only work when headlights are on, so not sure if that will work for you.
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I was told by someone that you need to find a power source that stays on while you are cranking the engine otherwise the guage is not accurate... I'll try to call Autometer for you on tuesday if I remember. Which gauge do you have exactly? What part number?
Hey Matt, do you know, or can you ask Autometer tomarrow if on their Lunar guage cluster, the oil pressure guage is an actual pressure reading guage or a glorified dummy light like the stock cluster.
Originally posted by wilit Hey Matt, do you know, or can you ask Autometer tomarrow if on their Lunar guage cluster, the oil pressure guage is an actual pressure reading guage or a glorified dummy light like the stock cluster.
Thanks.
I have that guage and it works pretty damn good. It reads the full range. Plus I will call em on tuesday when I am actually at work
Ok, I called auto meter. They said you need to connect the boost power guage to something the has power WHILE CRANKING Like fuel pump etc. Does that work for ya?
So you think splicing into my boost-a-pump would be the same thing? Currently I have the gauge cluster out of the dash and tried to find a "live" wire when key in run position, no luck. I believe I found a wire in the headlight switch that'd supply power for the backlight.
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95 GT w/ AODE, TransGo shift kit, and trans cooler, SpeedCal, underdrive pulleys, stock MAF w/ center post removed, 70mm TB, digital A/F gauge, electric boost/fuel pressure gauge, 6# Kenne Bell w/ Flowzilla intake, ported GT-40 lower, 1 5/8" unequal headers, 2 1/2" ProChamber, 2 1/2" Borla catback exhaust, and 3.55's. Chrome Cobra R's. Cobra RR hood, double Saleen wing, billet grill, chrome strut tower brace and radiator hoses.
Originally posted by stangGT95 So you think splicing into my boost-a-pump would be the same thing? Currently I have the gauge cluster out of the dash and tried to find a "live" wire when key in run position, no luck. I believe I found a wire in the headlight switch that'd supply power for the backlight.
That sounds like a good idea to me. The gauge doesn't draw that much current. You could problaby do it either way.
Anyone use electric boost gauge? 
