Why not get in Boost in cold weather..need schooling please
Trying to figure it out on my own to no avail....Why can't you get into boost when the ambient temp is 40 degrees or below? The air is still coming in through the S/C, through the Intercooler (P1SC setup for me) and then through the rest of the intake. The temp coming out of the intercooler should be mitigated for the most part right? Is there something I'm missing? When people run nitrous on S/C engines that effectively drops the intake charge to at least 40 degrees or more cooler than normal. I'm trying to reason it in my head but I'm missing the real reason. The only info I could dig up is something about higher boost levels in cold weather. I will be running only 8 PSI (no pulley change) with 3 core intercooler (vs the normal 2 core) and wouldn't think that colder weather would have me push much past 10PSI. So,
Please someone break it down for me. I'm going to be driving my car in the California desert for the next few years (where I will be stationed) and it is often very cool in the mornings and much warmer in the daytime and would like to know how to avoid a catastrophe if I can. Elevation I will be using the car at will be between Sea Level and 1500ft above. Thanks for any help, I posted this on another site also. Call me paranoid in the pursuit to not blow up my engine..hehe.
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2008 Dark Candy Apple Red GT/CS All Opts +Nav, Saleen 3.4", V-10, FM A/Bs, Billet LCAs, MGW, 39lb Inj, HT0s, Steeda CAI w/Extreme Inlet, Chicane Strut Br., BMR Tunnel Brace/Loop, Pypes X, BAP, Lakewood Watts Link, Strange 10-way Shocks, CHE K-Member Brace w/limiters, CHE UCA, CHE Anti-Squats - ST Motorsports Tuned
I am new to all this and I could be totally wrong but ...
I read somewhere that nitrous sprays at something like -125 degrees F.
Also, nitrous starts out as a gas compressed into a liquid state and the "expansion" from liquid to gas absorbs heat in the process too.
Last, the nitrous is usually sprayed near or directly into the combustion chamber so all the surrounding heat from the rest of the engine and hot parts do not really get a chance to warm up the nitrious because the path is so short.
I am sure there are many other things I dont know about that afftect this process too.
I could be wrong but I think you are over mitigating too much to the outside weather; it doesnt help cool that much. It might affect your blowers performance though.
I think in the end, the cool air is more dense than normal air, but the blower works better on high pressure air, the warmer the air, the higher pressure. Temperature and pressure are proportional when dealing with gasses. So you're sort of hindering your blower's normal performance by feeding it colder outside air, if that makes any sense... Colder outside air is like "weaker" fuel for your blower to work on.
Charles's Law of Gasses states that the volume of a given amount of dry ideal gas is directly proportional to the Temperature provided the amount of gas and the pressure remain fixed.
So if temperature drops, volume and pressure drop.
Think of it like sticking a balloon in the freezer, it will shrink in size due to the loss of temp,, volume and pressure. Then if you squeeze the cold balloon, it still wont reqain its former full shape because there is not enough pressure and volume to fill the balloon as before when the air inside was warm.
Maybe it has to be colder than a freezer but the logic works.
I would tune the blower for the warmest heat and suffer through the cool mornings. I dont think you can have it both ways.
Thanks for the post and the info, unfortunately its not really an answer to my question. So i'll reword what I'm asking.
People have warned against getting into boost in cold weather. I'm trying to figure out why you wouldn't want to based on the info in my post above. Will it damage the engine in some way I'm not thinking of? Does it being cold somehow increase the chance to run lean and detonate or some other such damaging event?
Like I posted above, I'm worried about this because in the California desert where I will be stationed.....its cold in the morning and night and hot as **** in the day. I'm just trying to get a definite answer on whether I can get into boost on that 22 mile straight ass boring Fort Irwin Road or if I'm going to have to stay out of it on that stretch if its cold in the morning. Driving slow on that road is the devil...cause it is damned long and boring.
Further help appreciated.
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2008 Dark Candy Apple Red GT/CS All Opts +Nav, Saleen 3.4", V-10, FM A/Bs, Billet LCAs, MGW, 39lb Inj, HT0s, Steeda CAI w/Extreme Inlet, Chicane Strut Br., BMR Tunnel Brace/Loop, Pypes X, BAP, Lakewood Watts Link, Strange 10-way Shocks, CHE K-Member Brace w/limiters, CHE UCA, CHE Anti-Squats - ST Motorsports Tuned
As long as the engine is tuned properly there shouldnt be any problems.
The trick is TUNING the computer, theres not one supercharger kit that will give you the optimal tune, you will always need to have it looked at by an experienced tuner.