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Old 07-08-2008   #16 (permalink)
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hey guys , im very new to nitrous talk, but i know my way a little bit other than one problem, i feel kinda stupid not knowing this but,
where do u fill ur nitrous? or does it come filled if u order it? thanks
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Old 07-18-2008   #17 (permalink)
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Default Nitrous fill

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Originally Posted by M-Stang driver View Post
hey guys , im very new to nitrous talk, but i know my way a little bit other than one problem, i feel kinda stupid not knowing this but,
where do u fill ur nitrous? or does it come filled if u order it? thanks
You have to find a performance shop that fills then. They DO NOT copme filled and run from $25.00-$35.00 for a 10 lb bottle
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Old 08-03-2008   #18 (permalink)
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I had an 87 LX 5.0. Bought used in '89 w/ 40k mi. Ran 150 shot dry NOS kit until I traded it in with 75k mi in 1994. Ran 12.40's @ 113 consistently - almost every weekend - with just a couple bolt-on's, 3:27 gears, and a completely stock engine. Never had a problem with it as far as the motor goes - blew 3rd gear once when I got off the throttle at high rpm - obviously shoulda went to 4th to coast... but my point is, with the right tune = enough fuel, not too much timing, the 5.0 engine can handle the 150. If you're a 4.6 version, I think the biggest worry is a back-fire through the plastic intake. 5.0 had aluminum. the plastic might break apart with a back-fire. As for the piston horror storie, they're from poor tuning. If you hear "knocking & pinging" (pre-ignition / detonation) you need more fuel and/or less timing. Otherwise, it's perfectly safe. As for wet vs. dry: With a dry kit, you're only adding nitrous into the intake - the additional fuel is added via the injectors with higher pressure, and/or booster fuel pump, and or bigger injectors, etc. This is typically easier to manage. Wet systems spray nitrous AND additional fuel into the intake. This is typically for when your fuel system can't add enough fuel to compensate for the additional oxygen your adding via the N20, and I think this is where most of the horror stories come from. I think that part of the problem is that you're spraying a wet fuel through an intake that is designed for air and the fuel sesn't atomize and distribute properly, consistently, and equally.
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Old 08-03-2008   #19 (permalink)
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I think I was paying $3/lb back then- I can't believe it hasn't gone up since then, so I think you'd most likely be paying $40-$50 to fill the bottle. It's got to be up to $4-$5/lb by now...
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Old 08-05-2008   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by markwondi View Post
I'm still waiting on a logical explanation as to why dry kits are better?
I'm not sure either... I've ALWAYS been told to go with a wet kit for safety reasons. If for some reason the fuel system fails, you're not spraying a motor without the extra fuel. I'm looking for a power adder myself and contemplated nitrous or a blower. The only downfall for the sn95 guys is the hypereutectic pistons. It's not the same setup as the factory forged pistons the foxbodies were blessed with, therefore they can't take near the punch. I would not recommend anything higher than a 75 shot if it's a daily driver ESPECIALLY if you don't have the means to replace the engine. The more support equipment you install with the nitrous kit, the better, but just remember, nothing is fool proof.

Side note: the local performance shop here sells nitrous refills for $4.50/pound.
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