What is the maximum psi you can safely run on a supercharged but otherwise stock 5.0?
Discuss What is the maximum psi you can safely run on a supercharged but otherwise stock 5.0? on AllFordMustangs.com, the place for Mustang enthusiasts.
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I have a 95 5.0 convert, is has some bolt ons but stock heads, intake, cam and bottom end with 55K miles.
Can I buy a supercharger kit and raise the psi with a different pulley? What is the max psi i could run on this engine safely?
I drive like 5K miles a year.
Like couldnt i buy a 9psi supercharger and raise the psi to like 12-15 and get alot more power?
i already have a 255 fuel pump and a crane hi-6 ignition.
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95 gt 5.0 convertible:
T5, shorty headers, hiflo h pipe, mac mufflers, ROH wheels, cobra hood, saleen speedster cover, springs, gtec pro.
Parts I have, but not installed:
crane hi-6 ignition, crane coil, 65mm TB, c&l MAF, pulleys, 373 gears, subframes, shocks, 1.7 rockers, 255 pump & regulator, a/f guage, fuel press guage, driveshaft saftey loop, hurst shifter.
The amount of boost used is not a good measure of potential power. Volume from the supercharger is and it's curve! Boost is a measure of back pressure through the intake track as the supercharger volume gets harder to pass through engine.
Proper tuning is the key. You don't want to lean out the engine or use to much timing. Using a stock intake (95 upper is restrictive) 8lbs of boost is the most I suggest without dyno tuning air fuel ratio. The more you boost the engine air temperature starts to spike because you're compressing air. At some point this becomes to much for any power gain. Always run it on the rich side for safety but to rich will take away lots of power.
I highly suggest not to use an FMU. Use the proper size fuel injectors (at least a 30lb for 8psi boost stock) and a minimum of two pumps able to provide enough fuel volume against set fuel pressure. I've seen a stock 92 GT make 400 RWHP using a 10lb Vortech. It used a ported Vortech intake, larger fuel system, with a custom dynoed chip. Your engine does not have forged pistons so i would keep boost down related to detonation. I feel that if people can afford blowers a dynoed chip should also follow for max power and safety.
After a while almost everyone wants more boost and its not uncommon to see this along with the head gaskets failing.
But it all varies depending upon quality of the fuel you are running, fuel pressure and system, external air tempurature and timing. Remember if you run more pressure in those cylinders you might just blow your candles out--so you might need a stronger coil/ignition system with better plugs that are a step or two cooler.
Many of the base charging systems will work with stock motors, but once you start swapping pulleys, bumping your boost and changing things, then all bets are off and other mods will be needed to make your system run correctly.
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95 GT Convertible
BBK shorties, X-pipe, Magnaflow CB
CAI, 70mm TB, GT40 intake, 1.7 RR, UD pulleys
SFC/braces/JR, AUC Arms
1966 C Coupe - New restoration project
2004 Chev Silverado 4X4
Well.....you are probably right. If you run on edge you are much more likely to fall off. With a charged motor, mistakes on tuning can become very costly. Just make sure you are good at changing head gaskets.
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95 GT Convertible
BBK shorties, X-pipe, Magnaflow CB
CAI, 70mm TB, GT40 intake, 1.7 RR, UD pulleys
SFC/braces/JR, AUC Arms
1966 C Coupe - New restoration project
2004 Chev Silverado 4X4
I'm in agreement with you Snake.....just saying some guys have trouble checking their oil let alone get their cars tuned and dialed in. Then they go out and put a charger on it. You know this does happen from time to time.
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95 GT Convertible
BBK shorties, X-pipe, Magnaflow CB
CAI, 70mm TB, GT40 intake, 1.7 RR, UD pulleys
SFC/braces/JR, AUC Arms
1966 C Coupe - New restoration project
2004 Chev Silverado 4X4
This isn't a simple bolt on. You engine has to be tuned or you'll end up spending more money than you want to.
I wouldn't put more than 5 psi though a stock motor.
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Black,79 Mustang mostly carbon fiber/kevlar body, M-2300-k brake kit, full roll cage, maximum motorsport suspension, custom geared 6 speed, 2 inch rear fender flares, 1 inch front, motor being built (no eta). Looks like the Mad Max interseptor and weighs about 1800lbs w/o motor (450hp 351w installed to move the car around)
Black, 82 Capri RS 5.0L, B303, 1.7 rockers, World 180 heads, +150hp N.O.S, Turbo coupe rear end, T-56(tremec tko would be beter), 80 cobra nose
I have a '92 5.0 that was supercharged at 7-lbs for 90,000 miles before the rings and bearing flew south for the winter. It was stock bottom end the whole time, with a GT-40 intake and 1.72 roller rockers and 110lph fuel pump, 30-lb injectors, MSD ignition and ran synthetic oil. At about 40,000 mi, I put on DART Windsor "Sr" cast-iron heads and then decided it was time to increase boost, after building an 8.5:1 motor with hardened pushrods, ARP head studs, forged internals and Fel-Pro Loc-Wire head gaskets... My current setup is pushing 12-13-lbs. through a S-Trim Vortech. The motor has 114,000 miles on it and I just dynoed it at 450rwhp. That's what you get with a proper tune and a motor that was built for higher boost.
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"Mad" Max
1992 LX, thanks to Chicane Sport Tuning and some friends.. it is now wrapped with new graphics and ready to hit the streets AGAIN!!!!
EXAMPLE:
I have been running my 94GT with boost showing six on my powerdyne wth stock fuel system(with non adjustable FMU)For sometime now with no issues at all,i am talking full throttle runs,no detonation and clean looking plugs(i check them alot)I have about 40,000 miles put on this setup(Daily driver) so if the headgaskets do go it wouldnt suprise me even though i am cautious not to have this happen.
supercharger max safe psi on stock 5.0? 
