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Old 03-31-2003   #1 (permalink)
Adam Ginsberg is offline Apprentice


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CMC FAQ

JWL did a great job on an AI FAQ, and Twister asked if I'd put one together for CMC. So, here goes.....

First off, rules for CMC are located here in Word format. Right click, save as.

And here in HTML format. Right click, save as.

What does it cost to build an CMC car?

The initial buy-in to CMC is lower then AI, due to the restrictions for the class. You cannot modify the suspension ( no changing the K-member, no Griggs control arms, no changing the pickup points, etc ) - good struts/shocks, bushing material is unlimited, heavier springs are all ok, however. Motor must have stock intake for EFI, or use an Edelbrock ( check the rules for specific part numbers ) for carb, stock headers, balance, but no-blueprinting, Canton pan ( again, part number specific ), etc. Find a decent Fox3 Mustang for ~$3500, gut and cage it ( about ~$1500 for a good cage, depending on the area ), A-sedan brakes, SFI harmonic balancer, race rims and rubber....I'd put a good guess at $6000-8000. Costs would be dictated by the condition of the vehicle at purchase. A Camaro might be less expensive, depending on what Gen car you purchase.

How do I become a race driver in CMC? I plagarized this from you, JWL. Hope you don't mind.

This one is pretty easy with NASA. You can start in our HPDE schools, move up to Group 4, and then go for a licensing test over two weekend with an instructor. You can also attend an SCCA rookie school, a Bondurant school, or come out with a group like Driving Concepts that runs our licensing in SoCal. With any one of these paths, you can be on track in a few weekends, but I strongly suggest you get at least a half-season or more of seat time in your car before you try to compete. Comparing competition to HPDE driving is like comparing running with the bulls in Pamplona to a jog around the neighborhood. It’s a whole new level of concentration and learning to drive off-line when stuff happens. You need to know your car, your ability and the track before you jump into the deep end.

Where can I watch a CMC race, meet the drivers, and check out the cars?

Be sure to regularly check these websites - www.americanironwest.com , www.americaniron-east.com, www.racenasa.net, and www.nasatx.com for race dates and times. Usually, entrance is free, and the pits are open to meet and greet the drivers.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me here, or e-mail via adam.ginsberg@siemens.com.

Adam Ginsberg
1986 Mustang GT
Dallas, Texas CMC/AI Director
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Old 04-01-2003   #2 (permalink)
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Adam, in general, what are the costs in acctually racing a CMC car and what parts tend to wear out quickly?
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Old 04-01-2003   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Twister
Adam, in general, what are the costs in acctually racing a CMC car and what parts tend to wear out quickly?
Unfortunately, I can't answer that yet - I haven't actually started racing in CMC. I've done several OT events, however, with plans to join the CMC frey in the '04 racing season.

Todd Covini could likely provide better answers, but off the top of my head, the most common items that would wear are:
[list=1][*]Brake pads[*]Brake rotors[*]Tires[*]Struts/shocks ( over time )[*]Bushings[*]Suspension components[/list=1]

Todd, feel free to add/modify this list.
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Old 04-01-2003   #4 (permalink)
Todd Covini is offline Rookie


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First off...many thanks to Adam for monitoring this and many of the other message boards in the interest of promoting CMC and AI in Texas.

Everything Adam has said is spot on. Couple additions, in general.

#1- Buying a CMC car is always more time/cost effective than building one. Even though they are relatively cheap & easy to build, a well sorted car is less headache and gets you on the track in no time!. A number of CMC cars are available at www.camaromustangchallenge.com...this is the official CMC website to follow CMC action!

#2- Parts wear? Primary parts to watch are tires & brakes. In my first few years of CMC racing, I could make an entire year on one set of Toyo tires and Hawk brakes. Running in front of the pack month after month in an 8 race weekend season, will cost you 2 sets of tires and 2 sets of brakes.

Next high wear items are the rear axle upper control arms. The bushings always push out of them. Every driver has found different arms that work for them but in general, I inspect these religiously...when they go, the car is really squirlly.

Gas & oil is probably the next wear item!!! I changed the oil after every weekend and the tranny/diff every other weekend...and I'd go thru ~35-40 gallons in a good weekend (2 practice-2 qualify- 4 race sessions, each session 20 minutes in length.)

That's it!!! CMC engines have been known to race 80k to 130k miles before a replacement...which by the way is best done with a Ford ReManufactured engine...longblock ~$2000, swapped in a weekend and back to the races in weeks. (I know...I changed mine at ~125k miles...and still runs like a charm ~5k race only miles on the new motor.

Oh...heat is an issue with CMC cars (and any racecar for that matter)...Oil, water, brake and tire temps are what will shorten the lifespan of any CMC racer...manage those well, and you'll have a great time!!!

Todd Covini
Texas CMC/AI Chief Director
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Old 04-01-2003   #5 (permalink)
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Quickly- other wear items to watch...
1) sway bar bushings and end links
2) front wheel bearings/hubs (after one season)
3) wheels...believe it or not, those with 4 lug wheels found that after a few years of racing on them, stress cracks and develop...no problems with 5 lugs.
4) Radiators...very susceptible to flying debris when 5-7 lead cars and nose to tail a foot apart for 20 minutes!
5) Windshields...same reason as #4 above. Seems as though I'd lose a windsheild and/or radiator every couple years.
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Old 04-01-2003   #6 (permalink)
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...cost for body damage is minimal as CMC is a "No Contact Sport"!!!
All body contact incidents are reported and investigated. Generally, the person found at fault loses 2 positions in the race finish...so there is no incentive to try a bonsai pass...unless you know you can do it cleanly!

I raced in CMC from 1995 to 2001 and only had to replace a front fender one year because I spun myself into a tire barrier.

Before returning to the Texas CMC races this year, I will opt to clean up a few body dings from other personal stupidity in the 2001 race season. A new hood/cowl (forgot to pin the hood down before the race)....and straighten rear quarter (checked up early under braking on the Season Champion...he let me know he was there!)
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