[TheKurgan]

I went to Hallett Raceway in Jennings, OK last weekend and these pads pretty much tore my rotors up. I know it's a very technically challenging course that requires alot of hard braking, but after 2 days, my rotors need to be turned. Anyone else have this problem? My buddy and instructor both run performance friction pads and they love em but I can't find any for the S197.

[CNTLOSE]

I have never used them before, but I will be intrested in any postings from others as I was preparing to buy a set. Were you still running the stock rotors or aftermarket ones?

[TheKurgan]

I ran them on the stock rotors, but I don't think it would of mattered if they were slotted or not. Also, I can see that the front pads might of lasted one more event. They are half gone after the weekend. Back pads look ok but all 4 rotors are in bad shaped(i.e. warped). Also they squeak all the time and I even put the blue grease on the back of the pads. I'll try to remember to take a pic when I get home from work today.

[.boB]

This is common no matter what pads you use. Hallet is tight, and the Mustang is heavy. Brakes get hot and noisy.

Heat is the worst thing in that kind of use. Could you smell the brakes? If so, you may have overheated them. You should consider cooling ducts for the next event.

They may not actually be warped. The only way to tell is to put a dial indicator on them and see.

Remove the rotora and resurface them with a sanding disc in a drill motor. I use 120grit sand paper to make a new surface. I'd like to use a brake disc hone, but I can't find one.

[TheKurgan]

Originally Posted by .boB

This is common no matter what pads you use. Hallet is tight, and the Mustang is heavy. Brakes get hot and noisy.

Heat is the worst thing in that kind of use. Could you smell the brakes? If so, you may have overheated them. You should consider cooling ducts for the next event.

They may not actually be warped. The only way to tell is to put a dial indicator on them and see.

Remove the rotora and resurface them with a sanding disc in a drill motor. I use 120grit sand paper to make a new surface. I'd like to use a brake disc hone, but I can't find one.

You might be right about them not being warped, but whatever the case, it doesn't look like the rotors are being spun evenly. Yes I could definitely smell the brakes at times. They got very hot. I would have brake ducts by now, but I've been waiting on the Shelby brake duct/lower light kit on backorder for over a year now.

What is weird is why the rear pads were not worn hardly at all while the front ones are almost gone. I think I need more grab in the back because at times when I really braked hard before entering the corner, I could feel the ass end starting to get loose. Here is a couple pics I snapped of what they look like after Hallett. If you look closely you can see a sort of grab and release pattern on the rotor. Before Hallett, they were in excellent shape...

[.boB]

That's heat glazing. Try resurfacing the rotor and the pads. That's essentially free. If you use a differant type pad, you'll need to have the rotors cut.

I put some cooling ducts on my car, and it made a huge differance. They look pretty cheesy, because they're held in there with cable ties and hose clamps. But they work really well. One of my winter projects is to make some nice metal shields to attache the hose to.

[95svtroadracing]

I used the Hawk HP plus as well with the same results, I also used slotted rotors and they tear up, I put on Ford Motorsport HD rotors not slotted or cross-drilled and Performance Friction 01 compound pads WOW what a difference. This combo works awesome. And I ran on small coarses like Putnam and Beaverrun so heat was present.

[TheKurgan]

Originally Posted by 95svtroadracing

I used the Hawk HP plus as well with the same results, I also used slotted rotors and they tear up, I put on Ford Motorsport HD rotors not slotted or cross-drilled and Performance Friction 01 compound pads WOW what a difference. This combo works awesome. And I ran on small coarses like Putnam and Beaverrun so heat was present.

PF-01 pads are only available for the rear right now on the S197's. I think they might be available next spring tho for the front. Yeah, I've heard nothing but good things from experienced road racers about Performance Friction and nothing but bad things about Hawk from them. I won't be buying anymore Hawks. Oh well live and learn. They do stop good is the only thing I can say about them and did not lock up.

[95svtroadracing]

There is also another option which I have used on another race car and they are so easy to modulate and are easy on the rotors. Cobalt. Everyone that uses these always come back for more and they want to put them on there other cars. We have been working with cobalt on some special projects, we can have these done for your car if you still need some.

[Dogstar]

What did you think of the course, overall? I've never been there but thinking about it for next year.

[TheKurgan]

The track is great. They turn you around and go clockwise the second day so it's like 2 totally different tracks. Top speed on the straights is about 110. There is an off camber S turn that they call the *****. It got me once...I got 2 tires off the track so watch out for that. I will likely go back next year for the Fall Thunder.

As for the cobalt brakes...they might be good and all, but I'm done experimenting. I'm going to go with what these other guys are using.

[95svtroadracing]

No experimenting needed on these cobalts, they are the business! If you don't believe me check them out (there website is cobalt.com) and give them a ring. But I would not suggest it if I really
didn't think they are better than the Hawks or PFC's.

[.boB]

Actually, it's cobaltfriction.com

[95svtroadracing]

TY,,,
ACTUALLY its Cobalt Friction Technologies USA
www.cobaltbrakes.com

[.boB]

Interestingly enough, both of them work.

But cobalt.com does not.