get lower controller arms first. i drove a mustang the other day without LCA's and man it couldnt hook as fast as mine could. It's about a 4-5 hour job and you have to get it welded.
I was referring to the lower controller arms. To complete the installation, you must weld them. I put off welding mine and they moved so much that it was hitting the axle. It vibrated like crazy because of the torque. Get your torque boxes reinforced also.
no no no....not sure where all of that was going. might be missunderstanding. nothing needs to be welded other then subframe connectors and torq boxes. yes suspension is the biggest factor in racing. it doesnt matter how much power you have if you cant put it to the ground. whats your plans for the car....1/4 mile, road racing?
if quarter mile id stay with the stock springs and gor with a set of 90/10 shocks in the front. there are many manufactures out there with 90/10 adjustable front struts. if this only going to be a street car just go and get the tokiko spring/shock kit on ebay for 500-600 and a set of upper and lower control arms from www.jdsperformance.com 175.00 cant beat it.
let us know what your plans are for the car and the budget you have to work with and we'll be able to point you in the right direction.
j
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2004 mustang gt
Update: JLT CAI, SLP LM2 catback,
Parts in the basement : To much to list. heres a hint..it involves a watts link and turbos.
Originally posted by 410cougar yes suspension is the biggest factor in racing. it doesnt matter how much power you have if you cant put it to the ground.
Truer words never spoken.
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'97 GT with 80mm C&L MAF, C<rue-Flow CAI, MAC 70mm TB, Superchip, 180 thermo, B&M Ripper, King Cobra Clutch, FRPP aluminum quad/adj cable, MAC O/R H pipe, MIL's, Flows, Granatelli Solid control arms, FRPP 4.10's, FRPP aluminum driveshaft, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, FRPP 9mm wires, TMD aluminum U/D pulleys, Steeda full length SFC's (welded in), and 17" polished aluminum Cobra wheels with Nitto 555 Extremes, Kenwood/Alpine sound. Waiting for install: PI intake.
It'll take about a day to install shocks/stuts/springs. It's not too hard. Make sure you have a good spring commpressor. It'll make the job alot easier.
AW just go nuts and have your suspension converted to Turbo Coupe(1.5" wider than stock). SOOO much easier to corner with a wider wheel base
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Black,79 Mustang mostly carbon fiber/kevlar body, M-2300-k brake kit, full roll cage, maximum motorsport suspension, custom geared 6 speed, 2 inch rear fender flares, 1 inch front, motor being built (no eta). Looks like the Mad Max interseptor and weighs about 1800lbs w/o motor (450hp 351w installed to move the car around)
Black, 82 Capri RS 5.0L, B303, 1.7 rockers, World 180 heads, +150hp N.O.S, Turbo coupe rear end, T-56(tremec tko would be beter), 80 cobra nose
Originally posted by Mad Max It'll take about a day to install shocks/stuts/springs. It's not too hard. Make sure you have a good spring commpressor. It'll make the job alot easier.
AW just go nuts and have your suspension converted to Turbo Coupe(1.5" wider than stock). SOOO much easier to corner with a wider wheel base
I thought you didn't need a spring compressor? Can't you just lower the front arm all the way down, put the new spring in and compress it with a jack?
Yes, sping/strut can be replaced either way, by lowering the control arm, or by using a spring compressor which can be borrowed or rented from most parts stores these days... just be careful to use it correctly.
If in doubt, get an expert involved, as compressed springs can bite you worse than a rattlesnake if handled incorrectly.
Don't forget to get a 4 wheel alignment after such suspension work!
will new suspension make a difference racing? 
