Originally posted by Mad Max To start I have the MM HD torque arm package(torque arm, panhard bar control arms, bla bal bla). Turbo coupe rear end, 87-88T-bird front control arms(w/koni reds) they're about 3/4" longer each side with a 79-86 K-member so it works out to be about 3/4 of an inch wider than a stock 87-93 gt . . Moved the k-member back 1 inch. Solid/drop engine mounts to get the center of gravity lower. 850lbs/inch springs front, 480 rear. Stock GT swaybars (needs to be upgraded to a larger diameter).
This is why i dont like panhard setups much, yes they do work great on the track (RR track) but complex to adust and expensive to buy and install.
If i were to use some lateral locating axle device my #1 choice would be a Watts link.
Also panhards are a ***** on uneven roads, the springs rate can make the car pretty jumpy (big problem where i live).
The worst thing in my opinion is a badly tuned panhard setup, i smoked a Griggs equiped stroked 351 Fox at the track, the thing was so stiff the rearend just had a mind of its own. He went to the grass a couple of times.
Anyway, im not saying panhards suck, just that they have to be perfectly tuned.
Originally posted by GTRaptor This is why i dont like panhard setups much, yes they do work great on the track (RR track) but complex to adust and expensive to buy and install.
Do you mean torque arm. Cause panhard bars are something completly different. You can use a torque arm without the panhard bar. Just leave the upper control arms in. Leave the rubber bushing in(or soft urathane) to avoid suspension bind.
I spent months seting the suspension. It's all based on how it's intalled. Canging the mounting points, lenth as well as pinion angle will have a huge effect on the handling of the car. Most people don't bother trying to find the center of gravity on there car to setup up anything. Even the spring rate and sway bar with change handling.
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Black,79 Mustang mostly carbon fiber/kevlar body, M-2300-k brake kit, full roll cage, maximum motorsport suspension, custom geared 6 speed, 2 inch rear fender flares, 1 inch front, motor being built (no eta). Looks like the Mad Max interseptor and weighs about 1800lbs w/o motor (450hp 351w installed to move the car around)
Black, 82 Capri RS 5.0L, B303, 1.7 rockers, World 180 heads, +150hp N.O.S, Turbo coupe rear end, T-56(tremec tko would be beter), 80 cobra nose
I said Road Racing because thats the main use of a panhard, not that it doesnt work at the 1/4 mile.
And you said
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I spent months seting the suspension. It's all based on how it's intalled.
Thats the #1 problem with panhards, if you know little about how to set it up you can end up with horrible oversteer and trashy street manners.
What i'm suggesting to the "newbies" is a cheaper and easier to adjust setup which is intended for ocassional autoX/RR with great street manners and for an affordable price.
If they are serious about RR then a panhard/torque arm combo with coilovers or a watts link or IRS is the way to go..but with all of them having a deep wallet is important as it is how to set them up right.
What you meen all or the people here don't have deep pocket I went through three pairs of rear spring, two types of shocks and added balast to the rear. I could spend months setting it up some more and another $10000. The problem is the car itself. The mustang is the perfect 1/4 mile car. To do any type of cornering be prepaired to spend $$$$ and lots of time. Other wise it just a car with a big engine. With crapy brakes, crapy suspension, and crapy weight distribution
As for the panhard. I still don't know what your talking about being for mainly RR I wouldn't own any type of performance car without one. IMO all mustangs (and other rear wheel drive vehicles) should come with one from the factory. Other wise the axle will float side to side when cornering (up to 1")
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Black,79 Mustang mostly carbon fiber/kevlar body, M-2300-k brake kit, full roll cage, maximum motorsport suspension, custom geared 6 speed, 2 inch rear fender flares, 1 inch front, motor being built (no eta). Looks like the Mad Max interseptor and weighs about 1800lbs w/o motor (450hp 351w installed to move the car around)
Black, 82 Capri RS 5.0L, B303, 1.7 rockers, World 180 heads, +150hp N.O.S, Turbo coupe rear end, T-56(tremec tko would be beter), 80 cobra nose
IMO all mustangs (and other rear wheel drive vehicles) should come with one from the factory. Other wise the axle will float side to side when cornering (up to 1")
I agree totally and go even farther by saying the fox bodies should have come from the factory with a better brake system. At least SVO 73mm front calipers, brake booster and maybe even rear disk brakes. Hell, it should have at least been an option.
I think a panhard bar is very cost effective considering the significant improvement it makes to handling.
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IMO all mustangs (and other rear wheel drive vehicles) should come with one from the factory. Other wise the axle will float side to side when cornering (up to 1")
[b]
Completely agree, but there are other ways such as using better designed control arm arrangement.
If the Mustang rear arms were parallel (both uppers and lowers) and they came with delrin on one side and spherical bushings on the other the side to side movement of the axle could be almost entirely eliminated.
Or take the example of the Crown Vic, it is factory equiped with a WATTS LINK !!!!
That should be a very interesting swap, using the Crown Vic watts in the Mustang !!!
Originally posted by GTRaptor Completely agree, but there are other ways such as using better designed control arm arrangement.
If the Mustang rear arms were parallel (both uppers and lowers) and they came with delrin on one side and spherical bushings on the other the side to side movement of the axle could be almost entirely eliminated.
Doesn't Griggs have a convesion kit to do that? I have a stang book at home that show how to convert the un-equal four link to any type of of suspension. The parrallel is in there and is a simple mod too.
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Black,79 Mustang mostly carbon fiber/kevlar body, M-2300-k brake kit, full roll cage, maximum motorsport suspension, custom geared 6 speed, 2 inch rear fender flares, 1 inch front, motor being built (no eta). Looks like the Mad Max interseptor and weighs about 1800lbs w/o motor (450hp 351w installed to move the car around)
Black, 82 Capri RS 5.0L, B303, 1.7 rockers, World 180 heads, +150hp N.O.S, Turbo coupe rear end, T-56(tremec tko would be beter), 80 cobra nose
I went through three pairs of rear spring, two types of shocks and added balast to the rear. I could spend months setting it up some more and another $10000. The problem is the car itself. The mustang is the perfect 1/4 mile car. To do any type of cornering be prepaired to spend $$$$ and lots of time. Other wise it just a car with a big engine. With crapy brakes, crapy suspension, and crapy weight distribution
I wouldn't own any type of performance car without one. IMO all mustangs (and other rear wheel drive vehicles) should come with one from the factory. Other wise the axle will float side to side when cornering (up to 1")
