[kscoyote]

So far:

Kenny Brown Extreme Matrix (sfc, jacking rail, and matrix)
Kenny Brown Strut tower brace
Kenny Brown Caster Plus Camber Plates
Kenny Brown 4pt Brace

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Plans:

Kenny Brown K-member and FCAs
Cobra IRS w/ KB module
Steeda X2 Ball joints
Offset Rack bushings

Manual steering conversion (but I don't know if that's possible with the 03 car & haven't had a chance to research the poweersteering/brakebooster set up)
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QA1 Shocks and Struts

[systronic]

wow. i didnt know about this forum. im not really into roadracing or autox persay, but it is the type of driving i prefer. i hate straightline racing, and enjoy feeling the road, and hitting the twisties.

what do you guys think about my setup, and what can i do to improve it for this type of driving? right now i have:

qa1 c/c plates, set with max caster, and a good amount of neg. camber.
650lb linear front springs, tokico bullit struts
250lb linear rear springs, tokico's as well.
urethane swaybar bushings and endlinks...

im planning on going to manual quick ratio steering, with urethane bushings.
also adding a tubular k-member while the motor is out.

my biggest weakness is my rear... what can i do for a decent, moderatly priced setup out back?

[Aussie]

I have a 94 GT and I have done the following: Steeda c/c plates, Steeda light weight springs, Front Cobra 04 control arms, X2 balljoints, offset bushings, Rear Upper and Lower alumin Steeda control arms, Tokico d-spec adjustable struts and shocks, Front and rear Addco sway bars, MM Panhard bar, Spring isolators.

All this is great however I heard that the torque box was only spot welded at the factory and I want to locate this phantom and weld the sucker completely!!

Also how much difference will I notice with full length sub frame connectors and should I go welded or bolt on What brand?

[kscoyote]

Originally Posted by Aussie

I have a 94 GT and I have done the following: Steeda c/c plates, Steeda light weight springs, Front Cobra 04 control arms, X2 balljoints, offset bushings, Rear Upper and Lower alumin Steeda control arms, Tokico d-spec adjustable struts and shocks, Front and rear Addco sway bars, MM Panhard bar, Spring isolators.

All this is great however I heard that the torque box was only spot welded at the factory and I want to locate this phantom and weld the sucker completely!!

Also how much difference will I notice with full length sub frame connectors and should I go welded or bolt on What brand?

anything's an improvement, but welded is MORE of an improvement.

the connectors you use will depend on the system you go with.

For example, Kenny Brown's is NOT full length, and allows you to run side pipes. They're not designed to be full length, because the street cage it's designed for takes up that slack, and using full length WITH a roll cage is excess weight.

On the other hand, the stiffest withOUT a rollcage would probably be Griggs's, but plan on spending a lot of time in the body shop for $1000+ worth of labor to install them. And you'll have to give up some rear seat foot space and your power seat.

[J. Rhapsody]

IM not thinking a full cage, I want it to be a daily driver aswell but im thinking a double single( two main hoops and two singles going down in the trunk) or just a roll bar for my hatch. Not sure about suspension maybe a rallycross setup. Will a front stabilizer bar clear the air cleaner on a I-6 or would it haff to be custom made?

[jbspeed86]

I have never seen coilovers installed up close but I have one question about them. Do they make less room for your front tires? They go where your struts are right? I ask because we are me and my brother are building another fox and were looking at the UPR tubular K member, A arms and coilover kit. Thanks.

[Novanutcase]

MM Max Grip Box Kit! Love it!

John

[racerfrank2007]

Hi Guys, I am not new when it comes to racing suspension systems in cars because I have a roadracing background. Although the S197 Mustang is new to me. I have been eyeing a car that was prepared strictly for roadracing and races regualy in NASA's AIX class. This car has a tight set-up that I do not think can be beat. check out Agent 47's "Green Meanie" In the end, after the 5.0 Cammer motor is installed this is a set-up I definelty want for my 08' Grabber Orange GTR/S car!!!

[kechme]

I have a 99 Cobra with Maximum Motorsports Road and Track kit on it. I also have SS brake lines, Carbotech pads, Brembo rotors, Corbeau race seats, harness, and Kirk roll bars. This summer I plan on putting on BBK long tube headers and H pipe. After the exhaust mods I want to replace the Bilstein shocks and H&R Springs with Koni double adjustable shocks and coil overs(From Maximum Motorsports of course).
Having talked with some of the American Iron guys they prefer Maximum Motorsports parts over some of the other parts companies because their parts don't break. They weigh a bit more, but not breaking is good.
Oh and the Steeda 5 Link is a great set up for a car with a solid axel. In hard cornering the body of the car tends to move around over the rear axel. With the 5 Link system the body stays put over the axel.

[billf]

I'll add thoughts here, even though my road racing interests are different than most on this thread. I race SCCA with a rule structure that I have to adhere to, so I'm not free to have most of the really great devices available on the retail market.

I have raced for many years with two Pintos (two classes), and two Mustangs (one class). Relative to the Fox, I have found, as have many others, the biggest problem area of the chassis is the rubber bushing material of the four link rear. Eliminating some/most/or all of the rubber will free the suspension to rely on the coil spring for spring rate, instead of the combination of the spring AND varying rubber rates, depending on how compressed the bushings are (which is determined by roll angle of the car).

In a stock suspension, the divergent angles of the four link will force the rubber into bind, which will geometrically increase the spring rate. It is this suddenly rising rate which causes the rear to "move out"/"snap oversteer" or what ever it is commonly called. Add on to this equasion, the application of power, and the result is difficult to control on the street, and difficult to drive smoothly on the track.

Personally, for my racing class, the adjustable, solid bushed upper arm replacements, with similar lowers are the way to go. These will stabilize the rear for cornering (same function as the Panhard/Watts Links), without the additional weight penalty of the add ons.

Incidentally, I was in the process of building a Mumford Link for the rear, until I found out it was illegal for my class rules. Does the same job as the Panhard/ Watts Link, only it looks like it is lighter (unsprung weight). Damn.

For specific asphalt track racing, high front spring rates, with sway bar will give low chassis roll angles. Problems in the front are that the strut design will not tolerate lowering to any degree (degrades the camber curve during bounce), so absolute minimal wheel travel is the goal. This will keep the tire camber closer to the ideal for that tire and track while cornering.

Good racing.

Bill

[Garyalpusa]

To bad you cant change rear suspension by rules....I had a 93gt that I did time trials with nasa. I finally took the point penalty and installed a Max Motorsport torque arm and PHB along with there recommended H&R springs. I was shocked at how much better the car was. To the tune of over 4 seconds a lap. I was able to apply throttle at the apex and power out of the turns like you are supposed to do instead of waiting until I had all the steering lock out. What a difference....The rear would squat and bite. I now have an 05 with the factory 3 link and it does the same thing. Does pretty good for a 3600lb street car....GA

[sccadriver]

I have been autoX ing for a little over a year now and i started with the stock suspension on my 06 v6. about 6mths ago i happend to come accross a great deal on a complete Ford Racing FR3 suspension kit. my times around the track improved drasticly and that was on the stock tires. pirelli.... since i have a set of 255/50zr17 riken raptor's. another drastic improvement. at the last track day i was able to get a better time than a mazda speed miata and blew the doors off a stock 07 mustang gt 5sp. look at my sig for the rest of my mods. gearing up for a track day at talledega.

[limp1969]

My 03 cobra has all MM caster plates, coil over kit,bump steer, ss lines hawk dtc70 and 80 pads,lt headers r888 toyos. Its pretty nice on the track. It has been scaled and cross balanced.

my 94 gt has MM caster plates, 03 cobra front brakes,spindles, hubs,control arms with poly bushings, steering rack, mm bump steer,mm torque arm, mm sub frame,mm pan hard bar, lower rear control arms, mm coil overs with billstiens, SS lines a hawk blues. Its not to bad.4.10s in the rear. It has the stock motor in it with 200k miles LOL runs good. Needs a motor a cage and to be gutted. I would like to run this car in NASA AI some day

I just picked up a scca car its a gt-1 class car. I will post pictures soon. It has fully custom suspension front end is sla type, rear is a custom watts link ish set up. Full cage, every part on it full racing. Fiber glass body 400hp solid lifter race motor, tko500, built currie rear end,willwood brakes and pedals, 2800lbs car 315s and 335 slicks. .

some one wanted to see coil overs in a mustang here is my 03.
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g5...racoilover.jpg

[97stang3.8]

Originally Posted by Emery

How long will my stock shocks/struts last? I have 145,000 but almost all from my 3 year college commute. It now is a pleasure craft about 20k a year.

Shocks/struts are considered a 30,000 mile maintenance option. i changed my factory shocks/struts at 100,000 miles, i couldn't tell they were bad but the difference was night and day when putting on new OE spec shocks/struts