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springs, adj shocks,ALL control arms (adj,hard mount), panhard rod,subframe connectors,adj upper tie on front and rear,fat soft rubber(275 is standard for most 17" road race tires.) and some bigger brakes. Should notice alot, depending on how fast u wanna go a roll cage to tie in the torque boxes front and rear and tie in the rockers. Check track/series rulebook on cage specs.
I'm tempted to ask: What engine, what type of road course action are you looking to do? Also, how serious do you want to be with the car, i.e. keep it a daily driver, or convert it to a dedicated track car?
The correct answer will totally depend on the above.
Check the sticky above titled, "How would you prep a road racing Fox body", specifically, the post I made. It outlines the way I set up an '87 Fox for SCCA ITB racing under their rules. We were limited to 6in wide wheels, and used a locked differential, but other than that, the car was driveable on the street with proper tires.
"Walsh", refers to Racer Walsh Inc., in Florida, who markets a product to replace the upper arm rear bushing with a spherical bearing device. The arm I suggested replacement of, is a fully articulated replacement for the upper arm. My suggestion is to use the spherical bushing WITH the articulated upper arm as a cure for the snap oversteer the suspension design is known for.
Start off slow. Do some events and talk to guys there with mustang's. As you get better and start going faster you'll see what your car needs. Unless you have a ton of cash and have your car built for road racing, you'll be building it slowly like most people so you'll want the best parts for your car and one's that will do the job well. I had my 95 gt for 5 years and put allot of goodies in it before I got into road racing and ended up going back and changing out allot of the parts I have bought for better parts more suited for this type of fun. I wish someone had told me before to save your money and only spend it on parts you will need and not parts you think you need. Most racers will tell you the best mod is the driver mod meaning the more you practice the better a driver you become regardless of what parts are in your car. If you put a good driver in a stock car and a beginner in the same but modified car and let them do 5 laps at some track, the good driver will beat the modded car.
If your dead set on getting some goodies before your first event no matter what then I say get some Max Motor sports full length subframes. This is a inexpensive mod that will greatly improve how your car handles by limiting the flexing of your fox and providing a good staring point for future mods.
Just a couple of thoughts, here. The Sub frame connectors are good, but if you are thinking serious track time, I'd add at least, a roll bar, with five/six point harness added.
Re your questions of the 2.3, I'd say it will stand up to much more than you'd expect. It is extremely robust in stock form. You can increase the compression to about 11.5 with block and head milling, and the roller rockers are good for any cam profile you want to run. Valve springs/retainers/keepers are interchangeable with small block ford V8 engines, so there are cheap items available. FYI alternate aluminum heads are available from Esslinger, both for Individual runner intake, and another (stock car racing) that uses the stock configuration intake manifold. I'd NOT recommend either for your intentions (cost and utility), since more useable streetable equipment is available.
The bottom end is known for 9000RPM capability, and basically, the engines will run forever (provided you don't do something extremely stupid).
Work on the chassis to give you handling and safety. Get a second set of wheels (aftermarket works well, and costs very little) for the softer compound tires for the track. Spend time in the car, not on the car (wrenching).
After checking your profile I think the best thing for you to do is a T-5 swap. The A4LD kills the 2.3. I would also get better valve springs. The ones you have now are only good for about 6K RPMs and if you deside to run the stock valve springs you should know that they are installed upside down. The matel cup around the spring goes on the bottom. If you run them upside down it well give you valve float.