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Old 11-27-2003   #1 (permalink)
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Default body roll

If you have a look at the following pics of my car on the track

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~two89w/gallery.html

you will notice a fair amount of body roll,how can I fix this problem?

I am running koni's allround and 450pound front springs with a 1inch front sway bar

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-28-2003   #2 (permalink)
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You could go with more agressive front springs, say 600 linear rate.
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Old 11-30-2003   #3 (permalink)
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Bigger springs. I run 850 in the front front and 450 in the back. I run 250 in the rear if I didn't have the upper control arms removed.
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Old 12-11-2003   #4 (permalink)
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I'me runnin 620# coils in the front of my car and i dont have the roll soo bad... atleast it dosent feel like it


You can get bigger sway bars they have 1 1/8 and 1 1/4

what are you running for rear springs? i have 4 1/2 leaf springs... and i wish i woulda gone with 5 leaf.....
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Old 12-16-2003   #5 (permalink)
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even thicker front and rear sway bars... made a huge difference in my car


<---- this pics is from before i installed the front one
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Old 12-16-2003   #6 (permalink)
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how about sub-frame connectors? or a roll cage?
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Old 12-16-2003   #7 (permalink)
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ok...sub frame conectors are a bit pricey for me at the moment
Roll cage requires engineers report,which also comes into more money and its only a street car but thanks for the imput
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Old 12-16-2003   #8 (permalink)
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You also should look into getting a new export brace, the factroy ones are just about worthless....
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Old 12-16-2003   #9 (permalink)
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that and a monte carlo bar
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Old 12-17-2003   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by windsor
ok...sub frame conectors are a bit pricey for me at the moment
they will help out more than you think, and cost less than most of the options listed above.
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Old 12-18-2003   #11 (permalink)
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As all the recommendations above are applicable, I will just add that the keys in the bang for the buck department would be stiffer springs and bigger swaybars.

Beyond that, you can look at shocks, bushings, etc... but that all depends on how much you want to spend, how hard you want to corner and ride, and how much you want to fiddle with it. Oversimplifying it, but beyond getting the sway in check and to your liking, spending money on good tires and track time is usually a good way to go.

Based on what you said and the photos, I would recommend the following in this order to minimize cost and maximize benefit:

1. Upgrade Front Swaybar to the biggest you can find... 1 1/8 or bigger if possible.

2. Add Rear Swaybar... you didn't mention, so presumed you need one. Rear should be at least 3/4 inch, but bigger is OK as long as front is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch thicker than the rear. If you can afford adjustable front, but especially rear swaybars, spend the extra money if you really want to be able to tune to each track.

3. Upgrade Front Springs to 600# or higher, but beware of the street driving tradeoff in harshness going much above that with a small block.

4. Upgrade Rear Springs but be ready to remove some leafs as needed to get traction and control oversteer due to lack of weight transfer if the rear is 'too stiff' relative to the front. Upgrading the rear springs should definitely be done after the first three items, and be ready to put the ones you already had back in... softer springs and a decent swaybar and shocks is usually all the back needs.

5. Make sure the front springs are 1-3 inches lower than stock (as low as you want given tires, bump stops, and denture chatter . Also use a lowering kit for the rear leafs (1-2 inch aluminum block kits are inexpensive and pretty easy to install with 2 jacks and 1 friend.

6. Adjust your Koni shocks to full stiff if possible, or upgrade your shocks if they are not the premium/adjustable model.

7. Replace worn rubber bushings with poly, Delrin, or aluminum, depending on how hardcore you want to get.

8. Relocate the battery to the right-rear corner of the car. Start planning on othe frontend weight saving mods like aluminum radiator and heads, etc.

9. Tell passengers they must place half their body mass outside the window to compensate... just kidding. Never sacrifice safety for a lousy few tenths off your lap time.
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Old 12-18-2003   #12 (permalink)
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Does anybody have any pictures/links of what type of export brace would help my problem?
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Old 12-18-2003   #13 (permalink)
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This is the one i used on my car, its has worked very well for me... it is ment for a car that has EFI but will work for a carbed car as well

Brace

Total control also makes a setup.. theirs is adjustable but very pricy

TCP Brace

you could make a version of the TCP one your self too... that is nothing that fancy..
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Old 12-19-2003   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by TobyBall
As all the recommendations above are applicable, I will just add that the keys in the bang for the buck department would be stiffer springs and bigger swaybars.

Beyond that, you can look at shocks, bushings, etc... but that all depends on how much you want to spend, how hard you want to corner and ride, and how much you want to fiddle with it. Oversimplifying it, but beyond getting the sway in check and to your liking, spending money on good tires and track time is usually a good way to go.

Based on what you said and the photos, I would recommend the following in this order to minimize cost and maximize benefit:

1. Upgrade Front Swaybar to the biggest you can find... 1 1/8 or bigger if possible.

2. Add Rear Swaybar... you didn't mention, so presumed you need one. Rear should be at least 3/4 inch, but bigger is OK as long as front is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch thicker than the rear. If you can afford adjustable front, but especially rear swaybars, spend the extra money if you really want to be able to tune to each track.

3. Upgrade Front Springs to 600# or higher, but beware of the street driving tradeoff in harshness going much above that with a small block.

4. Upgrade Rear Springs but be ready to remove some leafs as needed to get traction and control oversteer due to lack of weight transfer if the rear is 'too stiff' relative to the front. Upgrading the rear springs should definitely be done after the first three items, and be ready to put the ones you already had back in... softer springs and a decent swaybar and shocks is usually all the back needs.

5. Make sure the front springs are 1-3 inches lower than stock (as low as you want given tires, bump stops, and denture chatter . Also use a lowering kit for the rear leafs (1-2 inch aluminum block kits are inexpensive and pretty easy to install with 2 jacks and 1 friend.

6. Adjust your Koni shocks to full stiff if possible, or upgrade your shocks if they are not the premium/adjustable model.

7. Replace worn rubber bushings with poly, Delrin, or aluminum, depending on how hardcore you want to get.

8. Relocate the battery to the right-rear corner of the car. Start planning on othe frontend weight saving mods like aluminum radiator and heads, etc.

9. Tell passengers they must place half their body mass outside the window to compensate... just kidding. Never sacrifice safety for a lousy few tenths off your lap time.
There's a great book for classic (and modern) handling called Mustang Performance.

Here's the link:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...glance&s=books
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Old 12-19-2003   #15 (permalink)
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I'd go for a stiffer spring combo with a bigger sway bar and if you go too far, then you can always get rid of one or the other. Of course you would go with the more effective of the two if you got rid of one of them.
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