Just installed Steeda subframes with cross brace.
I just have to say this is one of the best mods you can do handling-wise. More so if your car has many kmiles.
The install was done soldering the subframes to the unibody. This is the ONLY way you should do it.Took around 2 hours to install.
You have to weld around all the mount points and inside the (not used) bolt holes to increase the strength of the welds. Also, dont forget to paint over the welds to inhibit corrosion.
One thing the subrframes add is PREDICTABILITY, the car is less jumpy on uneven roads and it definately feels stiffer. This mod makes the suspension work and not the body. One less "variable" into suspension tunning.
I would be writing a tech article shortly, including some pics.
I installed them in my 94 Vert... BIG difference, a LRCA is the PERFECT match for the subframes, I have no regrets nor problems, ever since I installed the subframe connectors my car feels and handles 80% better than before
Kewl....I got some Kenny Brown SF connectors with braces....these have no holes--they are designed to be welded in. I also got some extreme braces and jacking rails. Anyone running these?
My 95 convertible has a large stock brace in the front. I have a shop lined up to weld in everything and may get my exhaust put in at the same time if I can come up with the extra cash. I'm gonna use the same muffler shop for the SF's and the exhaust so if I have any clearance issues they will have done both. They are experienced in installing these and have done lots for street and track run ponies.
I had heard that sometimes part of the carpet or seats have to be removed because the welds get hot on the inside of the car. I was also wondering if my stock brace will work with this stuff or if it needs any modifying or should be removed?
Anyone experienced with this year and model and/or equipment with input would be appreciated.
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95 GT Convertible
BBK shorties, X-pipe, Magnaflow CB
CAI, 70mm TB, GT40 intake, 1.7 RR, UD pulleys
SFC/braces/JR, AUC Arms
1966 C Coupe - New restoration project
2004 Chev Silverado 4X4
I have a 94 vert and installed the Steeda SF, had no problems when soldering nor installing them, the cross members bolts right into the driver and passenger seats.
Now let me tell you, yer ragtop will feel different, you wont believe it, it's a whole different car, it even stop the leaks I had because now doors close better!
You wont regret it!
Ronky
PS. Oops, I was forgetting to tell ya: Make sure they put the car in 4 towers when installing them, not "one seide at a time", they need to lift the car and level it, otherwhise your top wont close properly... And make sure you have the top up.
I'm excited about getting my stuff in. My SF connectors have no holes so nothing is bolted in per se. Everything has to be welded in and supposedly is stronger and better that way. Do you have the large stock brace that goes from the back of the motor across the middle and back on part of the sides?
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95 GT Convertible
BBK shorties, X-pipe, Magnaflow CB
CAI, 70mm TB, GT40 intake, 1.7 RR, UD pulleys
SFC/braces/JR, AUC Arms
1966 C Coupe - New restoration project
2004 Chev Silverado 4X4
1.- "Four towers", you know when you use a jack to lift the car you can put towers to remove the jack, one in the front and one in the back per side, so you lift your car and use 4 towers to keep all the wheels in the air... you can't install SF using a ramp...
2.- Steeda SF goes from the front to the back quarters, this piece is soldered aswell as yours, but they have 2 cross members (one per SF) which ara optional, which bolts in the front seats screws and into the SF. so you get something like this (this is 1 SF, you'd get 2 of this paralell).
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==
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| |
Being the | | the subframe connectors and the = the crossmember, I hope I made myself clear (ya know, enlgish aint my 1st. language, and tho' I spent 2 years living in the US, I keep forgetting everything 'cuz of the lack of practice)
Dan I have the Kenny Brown complete setup on my 95 coup and it made a world of difference. I did not have any problems with the welding and carpet they just moved around and gave it time to cool off without getting one spot too hot.
I do believe some of the verts current setup does have to come off but don't hold me to this. Maybe someone with a vert can answer this question.
Quote:
Originally posted by GT Dan Kewl....I got some Kenny Brown SF connectors with braces....these have no holes--they are designed to be welded in. I also got some extreme braces and jacking rails. Anyone running these?
My 95 convertible has a large stock brace in the front. I have a shop lined up to weld in everything and may get my exhaust put in at the same time if I can come up with the extra cash. I'm gonna use the same muffler shop for the SF's and the exhaust so if I have any clearance issues they will have done both. They are experienced in installing these and have done lots for street and track run ponies.
I had heard that sometimes part of the carpet or seats have to be removed because the welds get hot on the inside of the car. I was also wondering if my stock brace will work with this stuff or if it needs any modifying or should be removed?
Anyone experienced with this year and model and/or equipment with input would be appreciated.
I got these SF connectors and braces and jacking rails....but I'm a little confused now. I took my car to the drags and checked out several cars and talked to some mustang owners that were running some very impressive times with stripped cars and slicks. For the 1/4 mile they were of the philosophy that a flexible car was better because the slicks would launch better and the whole car would hop out of the hole better.
I don't want to twist the heck out of my car.....granted my motor isn't in the high HP range yet, but I am concerned now about this traction and launching issue.
Any comments or ideas?
__________________
95 GT Convertible
BBK shorties, X-pipe, Magnaflow CB
CAI, 70mm TB, GT40 intake, 1.7 RR, UD pulleys
SFC/braces/JR, AUC Arms
1966 C Coupe - New restoration project
2004 Chev Silverado 4X4
My question is for anyone with Steedas Cross-brace Subs... can you jack up the car by these? i would think if you have a two tree lift with 4 lifting points, put one point on each weld that it would be ok to lift by them... am i wrong?