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Old 02-10-2005   #1 (permalink)
Aliate X is offline Rookie


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Default Newb with a few questions about road racing a 5.0....

Hey guys I just registered to the forum, Heres a little about myself and my situation----

My name is Tom, Im going to turn 19 in about 3 weeks. Currently I own a 93 5.0 LX, this is my daily driver, currently as you can see in my sig, its basically stock with only full exhaust, Centerlines are in the mail and Im about to get some 4.10's and after that building a new 5.0 for the car as the current engine burns a good amount of oil. Im going to keep it N/A and looking to make around 300+ to the wheels. After I finish this car I want to build a 5.0 road racer. I live about 1.5 hrs from EnglishTown raceway and they are opening up a new road course.
I know quite a bit about 5.0s but I know nothing about setting them up for road racing. I signed up to this forum to learn about it. Here are some of my questions....

-Do you guys run carbed or EFI?

-I see that the american iron class has a HP limit of about 350 to the wheels? I know this can be achived with a N/A 302...what are some of the setups you guys run?

-Can you still be competetive on a budget?

-How does modifying a 5.0 for road racer differ from just trying to make a 5.0 go fast....for example, what type of cams do you guys run?

-Do you have to be hardcore into it to have fun? Or can you just go on weekends or something?

-How much money does it take to keep the car maintained and such, like tires, brakes, etc.


Thanks for any info, I hope to learn a lot here!
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Old 02-11-2005   #2 (permalink)
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I run a 5.0 95 GT with close to 300HP to the wheels (EFI) and it hangs with stock Vettes.

I basically have heads (ported iron GT40 cobra), intake, roller rockers, TB , EEC Chip, CAI and MAF plus an offroad X pipe (no cats). Still with stock cam.
Also removed the smog pump but still run with the A/C.

For suspension almost every bushing is urethane, rear control arms, subframes, Tokico shocks and struts, linear rate springs, steeda balljoints and ccplates. It is streetable and does its work for ocassional road racing and autox.
It was a fairly inexpensive setup, and still have to improve it A LOT, will install a panhard bar next, and probably will go with a coilover setup at the front.

The first rule is modify your suspension, there are 100s of ways of doing so, some expensive some not so much.

Look at www.MaximumMotorsports.com stuff, these guys know suspensions better than anyone. Another option is Steeda or Griggs but MM is my overall favorite.

The first suspension items to change are the stock rear control arms, the bushings (urethane), springs and shocks and some caster camber plates.

Tires is one of the first things you should look at, a good set of tires is worth seconds less from your lap times, and possibly this is the largest expense in the long run.

A good seat is a must, you dont want to be fighting G forces to stay in the seat. At least get a good harness.

Also..reinforce the chassis, get full length subframes and a rollbar, check requirements for your class.
The chassis suffers from twisting and the subs and rollbar will keep it straight.

Brakes..you dont want them to fade, this is not only a safety concern, but also a speed problem, you want to be able to go as deep as possible into the curves. Cobra brakes are nice, but for true race performace go bigger if you can: Baer , Brembos.

The class you run will dictate which parts you can modify, so check at your local track.
Some tracks will have open doors for newbies and practice a few days a week, the best way to know is to ask.

You dont have to be hardcore to have fun, you dont even have to race against others, just going around the track alone makes you smile for several days

My advice is to learn as much as possible by reading and asking, when you hit the track you will know at least some basic rules.

We have a few suspension tech articles that can help you with mods and how the mustang suspension works and its limitations.
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Old 02-12-2005   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply man, the info really helps. I looked into one of MM's best kits, the one thats 2200, and I think thats exactly what I need.

What I plan to do is buy another 5.0 and do all this to it, along with that 5 lug converstion thing. It will be strictly a road racer, no daily driving. So I want to do some massive weight reduction and all that fun stuff. I added your yahoo messanger name so we can talk maybe sometime if your on. Any other info would be awesome, thanks a lot.
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Old 02-13-2005   #4 (permalink)
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Also, whats the difference between AutoX and Road Racing?

Heres some pics of the local track opening up in a few months, its at EnglishTown.

http://racewaypark.com/images/roadcourse/ArialRP.jpg
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Old 10-08-2005   #5 (permalink)
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AutoX = Autocross.. See: http://www.answers.com/topic/autocross
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'90 5.0 LX 'Vert:
WC T5 w/Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch.
FR GT40 Upper and Lower Intake, Thumper Ported E7TE's, 1.70 FRPP Roller Rockers, E303 Roller Cam, FR 24lbs Injectors, Cobra Tuned EEC-IV w/Matched 70MM MAF, Holly 70MM TB & EGR Spacer, BBK Crome Shorty Headers & O/R H-Pipe, Flowmaster 40 Series, Polished Alum. Underdrive Pulleys, FR 3 Core Radiator, ZIRGO 3300cfm 16" Elec Fan.
Bottom End: Bone stock other than adding a DSS Racing Main Stud Girdle
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