What Suspension Mods should I consider when upgrading to 3.73 gears in 300hp '88 GT?
Discuss What Suspension Mods should I consider when upgrading to 3.73 gears in 300hp '88 GT? on AllFordMustangs.com, the place for Mustang enthusiasts.
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Hey all, I am pretty sure I have seen something about this in another thread but I have been looking for an hour and still havent found it even looking in the search. Anyways, I have an 88 gt, with a tremec 3550, and the motor is pushing 300 hp. I am wanting to change to 3.73 gears but I thought I read somewhere were someone said that you should put in sub frame connectors or other mods. All the suspension is stock, along with everything else besides the interior of the motor, and the 5-speed. Any help would be great.
I would say definitely get sub frame connectors, regardless of gears. They fix tons of body roll.
I'm a little over 300HP w/ 3.73 and sub frame connectors and stock suspension.. and it can get clumsy when the back end is all over the place or you're banging gears and your car is bouncing under the power, though it is still very do-able.
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`90 Mustang LX 5.0 hatch - 331 w/ Australian ported heads - Cobra Intake - 65mm TB - MAC Headers and High flow Cats, Dynomax muffelers - ATI Procharger P1SC @ 11#'s intercooled - Aeromotive fuel system - 130amp alternator - Centerforce clutch - Full Griggs GR40 suspension - MSD 6BTM - 60# injectors - AEM EMS w/ wideband O2's converted to MAP - Torsen diff w/3.73 - Baer Brakes (13") w/ 5lug conversion, 17X9 Bullitt wheels with 275-40-17's on all 4 (Nitto 555RII)
give www.maximummotorsports.com and/or www.griggsracing.com a call and tell them what you want to do in the long run and they will help you get there. both are excellent companies with employees that know their stuff.
you dont NEED to put on subframe connectors or any other suspension mods just because you are going to install a different gear ratio, but the suspension miods will help get the power to the ground.
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1992 GT......
AOD to T-5 conversion, 3.73's, Zoom HD clutch, ported E7's, cut open and ported factory intake, ported stock throttle body, subframe connectors, 1.5" headers, o/r h-pipe, flowmaster cat back, MAC air tube, K&N conical filter, homemade heat sheild for filter, homemade cold air kit, MSD coil, 9mm plug wires, advanced base timing to 12 degrees, Chrome Pony rims, 235/55/r16 Cooper Cobras..... definately more to come!! ALL of this was done by myself....including the porting and gea
Originally posted by fvpnt0pony92 you dont NEED to put on subframe connectors or any other suspension mods just because you are going to install a different gear ratio, but the suspension miods will help get the power to the ground.
agreed, but most people do mods in the order that I don't agree with....I always sugjest rear suspension first....
yeah, suspension first is a good idea, but youll get better results by doing engine and gearing mods than suspension mods...up to a point that is.
but if you suggest doing suspension first then why havent you?.....im not trying to be a jerk im just trying to say that most people will do other mods than suspension first. but to answer his question...you dont HAVE to do any suspension mods if you are going to install different gearing.
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1992 GT......
AOD to T-5 conversion, 3.73's, Zoom HD clutch, ported E7's, cut open and ported factory intake, ported stock throttle body, subframe connectors, 1.5" headers, o/r h-pipe, flowmaster cat back, MAC air tube, K&N conical filter, homemade heat sheild for filter, homemade cold air kit, MSD coil, 9mm plug wires, advanced base timing to 12 degrees, Chrome Pony rims, 235/55/r16 Cooper Cobras..... definately more to come!! ALL of this was done by myself....including the porting and gea
I agree with the sub-frames and suspension first here's why. A stock 5.0 is plenty fast, enough to break the tires lose anytime you please. Now you go and add power and that makes thing worst. You can have all the power in the world it isn't going to do you a bit of good unless you can get it to the ground. Thats where the sub-frame connectors and control arms come into play.
I watched a stock motored 86 LX run high 12's all nite long @ Famoso. The only thing he did was sub-frames, drag shocks and control arms. In other words, the chassis was set-up correct.
Scott,
Do at least sub-frame connecters with your gears. If you are looking at doing corners and not drag racing allot of the Mustangs at the track run 3:55 gears
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Tony Berger
91 LX 337 Incon Twin Turbo
D&D Viper T-56 6 speed
Maximum Motorsports front to rear
94 Cobra
99 Lightning
and it's JUST-N-LX
thanks guys for all the suggestions, I am a college student and cant afford to do to many things wrong. But I think I am going to save up to gt the subframes welded in, and then put the gears in, I dont want the body to flex to much.
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88 Mustang Gt
Tremec 3550
Iskendarian camshaft 265/275
Ford Aluminium three core radiator
Vat & Magnaflux block and heads, bore surface and hone block .30 over
grind crankshaft, recondition rods, install new valve guides, valve job
pcv valve grommet, bosch ignition wires, Intake and exhause valves.
Ford 302 engine kit: Pistons,rings,rod & main bearings,cam bearings,fel pro gasket set,3 piece timing set,oil pump and freez plugs,valve springs intake and exhaust
ya as you can tell ive got a closet full of parts. but its all going on in stages. rear suspension (springs, cc plates, control arms, subframes)
brakes (steeda cobra R), engine (heads,intake, headers), trany (t56) they from there it doesnt matter. thats howe mods sould be done. nothing worse then sinking money in an engine that you cant stop or at least control. just my 2 cents. like my dad says. ya never listen, then when is doesnt work you ask why didnt you tell me. ya he also used to say "use you head for something besides a hatrack".
j
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2004 mustang gt
Update: JLT CAI, SLP LM2 catback,
Parts in the basement : To much to list. heres a hint..it involves a watts link and turbos.