[GT Dan]

I was going in tomorrow to get an entire new exhaust system installed and a suspension package. The suspension package is a Kenny Brown super sub connectors, matrix braces and jacking rails.

I had previously installed some Mac fixed lower control arms and adjustable upper control arms on the rear axle. Initially I adjusted the upper control arms to be the same length as the stock upper control arms. I reinstalled the stock rear springs and tried to make sure that they were positioned exactly the same in terms of location of the start of the coil on top and on bottom. After installing I noticed that my ride height was one inch higher on the driver side so I figured that something was just a little off. This evening I was going to try to readjust the springs by taking the load off of them and twisting them slightly to change the height.

But, before I did that I decided to measure my frame and suspension as I had read about in a magazine. Much to my disappointment I discovered the following. I made four measurements from the front pivot point on the rear of each front lower control arm to the middle of the mounting point in the rear torque boxes. The measurements were as follows:

Drivers side front to DS rear: 73 inches
Passenger side front to PS rear: 72 5/8 inches
DS front to PS rear (diagonal): 80 3/4 inches
PS front to DS rear (diagonal): 80 1/4 inches

Are these numbers too far off or are they ok?

[JUSTNLX]

Your numbers do not look bad to me. They look pretty good. 1/2" difference is not unheard of, especially for a Vert. Were the measurements done on a level surface?

If you had adjustible lower arms, combined with your uppers, you could adjust for the difference and square the rear axle with the front spindles. Not to mention pinion angle too, but you can already do that with your uppers.

Just make sure when you install the connectors you have full weight of your vert. on the suspension. If not, you may have troubles with door alignment.

[GT Dan]

Thanks Tony.

A year and a half ago when I first got the car, I had it aligned. Caster and camber were off. I had the plates installed. The tops of the struts on both towers are all the way toward the outside of drivers side of the adjustment slot just to bring it barely within stock specs.

The measurements that I took were to check the alignment of the K member. It sort of looks like the previous owner may have hit a square curb hard on the front passenger side....or might have parked it with pressure on a hilly curb in San Francisco since he worked there. I was worried that it might have been in a wreck, but from a very close inspection, it looks fine.

Its sort of weird because the K member measurements show the passenger side being 3/8 of an inch shorter. But, measuring the actual center of front tire to center of back tire on each side (all done on a flat surface) with the steering wheel and wheels straight show the passenger side being almost an inch longer. So I may have a few things going on.

I was hoping that someone that works on frames might either know a rule of thumb specs or might know the actual specs for a 95 Mustang.

I may end up taking it into or calling a frame shop this morning before getting my subframes welded in. Actually I think I'll take the SF connnectors and braces in.....have the muffler shop tack them in....put the exhaust in and weld that all up so there are no clearance problems....then remove the SF's and braces and get the suspension all dialed in. What do you think?

[JUSTNLX]

Well,

If your going to have your frame checked anyway, have the frame shop weld your connectors in. That way it is all square and level on there equipment

[GT Dan]

I took it to a frame shop and the owner was kind of rude. He bad-mouthed my car on the design of the convertible top....and just went off on other stuff. I was amazed. I'll try a couple of other shops.

If anyone works in a frame shop and knows what the actual specs are or can provide a link to such specs I'd really appreciate it.