V6 and racing, have an idea but would like a little more help
i have a v6 with specs in sig, what can i really do besides sway-bar, 4 link, and lsd to make it good on a track. should i keep the body kit, get another, or go without one? also is there anything really necessary to do to the engine? any other suspension mods?
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2000 3.8L 5speed with Ford Racing t-lok, Mac headers,5.0 short shifter, True dual Mac off road H-pipe with 2.5"tip, Mac mufflers, Xenon total body kit, projector headlights, Eibach springs, 96 GT rims with Kumho AST tires,MAC CAI, Pioneer in dash flip up TV with master unit, Kicker comp 12" sub with Sony 480w amp, and 30% tint
1/4 mile 15.68 at 89 mph (still learning on the track)
Then Remove the Body kit and stereo... get another time. You would be surprised how much that weight is slowing you down.
This is, if you want to turn it into a drag car.
Next, you don't really need a 4 link at your power level... but some stickier tires, 90/10 drag shocks and drag springs will help your 60'... especially if you put a 3.73 or 4.10 in your car with a Posi.
I would almost imagine at your performance level, Removing that weight, and doing just that little bit to the suspension and leaving the line at 3500 RPMS or so would probably reduce your short time enough and increase you power to weight ratio enough to almost gain you a full sec in the 1/4 mile.
Yes, seriously.
Though, most important is the driver mod. Practice Practice Practice.
Oops.. sorry... just noticed this is the road racing fromum... al still applies except the Drag springs and shocks. Still redice the weight, still gear a bit lower, and still practice a lot. Oh, a short shifter will help a bit to.
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2006 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Intake, Evolution Performance Tune, Borla Axle Backs, Hurst Shifter, 4.10's, JBA Long Tubes, Prothane Engine Mounts, Steeda UDPs, FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plates
thanks, is there anything else i should do, power wise?
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2000 3.8L 5speed with Ford Racing t-lok, Mac headers,5.0 short shifter, True dual Mac off road H-pipe with 2.5"tip, Mac mufflers, Xenon total body kit, projector headlights, Eibach springs, 96 GT rims with Kumho AST tires,MAC CAI, Pioneer in dash flip up TV with master unit, Kicker comp 12" sub with Sony 480w amp, and 30% tint
1/4 mile 15.68 at 89 mph (still learning on the track)
theres still so much you can do, depending on your budget. supercharger, intake manifold, throttle body, forget the body kit, take out any unneeded weight. such as rear seats and the frame, spare tire etc. etc. a nice set of gears, a short throw shifter
I would check and pick a sanctioning body you want to race for. They will have different rules and that will help determine how to build.
Again for road racing power is not #1 your car must handle well. Many v-6 cars can beat v-8s on a road course, is all about driving.
I would also not strip down a car just yet, a road car should be balanced well and our cars are front end heavy, stripping weight from the front (like battery) and putting it in the rear helps but I would pick some form of road racing that is close to you, bone up on the rules and see what other people are racing on the track…..
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So , let me get this straight…..your Honda has 1.6 liters, whereas my bottle of Mountain Dew has 2?
Change…..it’s what is left after taxes.
- Shaken....Not Stirred 2003 Mach I Auto Torch Red - Sold
-1988 Ford Mustang GT Convertible, 331 Trick Flow Stroker with a Tremec 3550....oh yea and a 1.6 liter V-TECH motor to work the convertible top.
- 1966 Inline 6……..the pile of parts car!
awesome! thanks guys, ill let you know what i get myself into!
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2000 3.8L 5speed with Ford Racing t-lok, Mac headers,5.0 short shifter, True dual Mac off road H-pipe with 2.5"tip, Mac mufflers, Xenon total body kit, projector headlights, Eibach springs, 96 GT rims with Kumho AST tires,MAC CAI, Pioneer in dash flip up TV with master unit, Kicker comp 12" sub with Sony 480w amp, and 30% tint
1/4 mile 15.68 at 89 mph (still learning on the track)
For autocross the first and most important thing to consider is brakes. That is definitely first and foremost! The least expensive upgrade is the 99 and later Cobra/Bullit/Mach I front calipers and 13" rotors. BUT, you need 17" rims for this. Whether you upgrade the calipers or not, go with a racing brake pad. For just starting out go with the Hawk black pad front and rear. When you get more experience you can switch to the Hawk HT10 pads. Just run these pads on the track, they are very noisy and dirty for street use.
After the brakes go with a strut tower brace and full length subframe connectors to tighten up the frame. After that, we can get into later. Plans are to begin posting mods for beginning and experienced autocrossers. Watch this space for future updates.