I would like to introduce myself, and my car to an ever growing group who love to autocross. If you are new to autocross and would like to join us, watch here for upcoming posts featuring how-to articles and useful information.
I am relatively new to this genre; we began two short years ago. By we, I am talking about myself, my son-in-law who helps me work on the car and also drives, and my adult children who often passenger in the car at our events.
We are members of the “Northwoods Shelby Club” Northwoods Region Shelby Club . It is a club of Mustang’s, Shelby’s, and fast Fords who hold various events during the year. Of interest to us here are the autocross events. We have three every year, beginning with the Milwaukee Mile road course in Milwaukee the first Saturday in May. That is followed by our premiere event at Road America at Elkhart Lake, Wisconsin for three days the middle of August. And finally we have a three day event at Autobahn in Joliet, Illinois the last weekend of September. Visit our website for more information.
Over the last two years I have personally run twice each at the Milwaukee and RA events, and only once at Autobahn, sadly skipping this year’s event. Being newbie’s to these types of events, we ran in the “slowest” groups, but our lap times are dropping with each lap. The club is VERY accommodating and will help with any problem, concern, or question. They will even put an experienced club member in the passenger seat with you, to give advice on how to best drive the track.
Our events are not racing; they are high speed touring events. This means you can run as fast as you can, or want to run, BUT passing is not allowed in the corners, only on the straights.
Now our car, it was a stock ’94 GT with, gulp I hate to admit this, an auto trans. Hey, it was the right car, at the right time, at the right price. For our first ever event, we upgraded the brakes to 99-04 Cobra calipers w/13”rotors and Hawk black race pads. We also installed a set of UDP pulleys. We next installed a “B&M Transpak” shift kit which works wonderfully!! Before our final event last year we welded in a set of full length subframe connectors.
Over last winter we rebuilt the clutch-pack in the rear end and while we were in there we exchanged the factory 3.27 gears for a set of 3.73 Motive gears. We installed a set of racing seats. A little side note here, if you have leather seats, you will wish you didn’t. You and your passenger will slide around the seat in hard cornering. We have installed front brake cooling ducts, ducts in the hood to aid engine cooling, a homemade CAI w/K&N filter, plus other items.
Over winter we are planning to upgrade the suspension with Eibach lowering springs and KYB AGX struts/shocks, it is presently still 1994 stock. We are upgrading the top half of the engine to improve engine breathing, we are still deciding exactly what parts we are going to use. We are also going to put in a better radiator to aid engine cooling.
As I stated earlier, there will be following articles on useful information for autocrossing. My next article will be about brakes. Please feel free to chime in with suggestions, or experiences. I am also open to correction if you feel some of the information I provide is in error.
The name brands I have used in this and subsequent articles are not meant to signify superiority over other brands. These are just products I personally have experience with, or which have been recommended to me. Other products from other companies may be equal to, or better than the products I have listed. Please feel free to substitute other brands with similar specifications if you choose.
The information provided here is from my personal experience, from more experienced autocrosser’s, and mostly from people like you who post to this site and others like it to share their wisdom with others. And I THANK YOU all very much for providing a forum for all of us to learn and share for the betterment of everyone.
It seems more an more opportunities for people to take a car out on a road course, learn and have some fun.
I only do this once a year, its an expensive sport, especially if you get into modding your car for road racing.
My only mods I did specifically just for the road course were the stainless steel brake lines, better fluid, and better brake pads.
Other mods were just because mods, lol.
Racers ride in groups or ‘pelotons’, corner at high speeds, take turns ‘pulling’ at the front of pace lines, and pick tactical spots to try to break away.
I’m looking to do a little running on the track. I hear talk of understeer and oversteer and it would seem that both are bad. What is it and how can I make sure I set things right? I’m looking at the BMR stage 2 kit for my 2005 Mustang GT. Would you shed a little light on the steering thing?
I’m looking to do a little running on the track. I hear talk of understeer and oversteer and it would seem that both are bad. What is it and how can I make sure I set things right? I’m looking at the BMR stage 2 kit for my 2005 Mustang GT. Would you shed a little light on the steering thing?
Bit of an old post here, but wanted to help if i could. The way i look at it is this... understeer is where your front tires lose traction first, causing the vehicle to stop turning very well. Oversteer is where the rear tires lose traction first, of course causing your rearend to go where it wants. Hope this helps if you hadn't already done the research .
Whenever I autocross or road race, the only thing that you need is a current snell approved helmet, but you can usually get a loaner. Also your battery need to be secured to where it cannot possibly move around. Obviously your car can't be leaking, you need all five lug nuts tightened properly (90lb*ft, not 10lb*ft), interior needs to be cleaned out so that nothing moves, throttle return spring needs to be fully functional, brakes are very nessacary, brake fluid need to be less than 6 months old for the road course I go to (it WILL boil if its the fluid from the factory), things can't be falling off, and other basic, logical things. I may have missed some things, but that should be most of it. For autocross, you shouldn't need a roll cage/bar, but for road racing, convertibles need roll bars/cages, at least here anyways. Coupes don't need them, but that could be different at different tracks. A set of tires that you don't mind wearing down a bit is good too.
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2001 SVT Cobra
Bassani x-pipe, Flowmasters, MM Subframe connectors, MM delrin (rear) and polyurethane (front) bushings, MM four point strut tower brace
If I could not drag race my car or any other car for that matter, I would like to drive a road race car. A full tilt ballz to the wall race car and drive it like I stole it. Be nice to find someone with a car that would let me drive it for them. Always have liked the road racing. But drag racing is in my blood so thats what I do BUT, if you want your car pushed hard i'll do it for ya.
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Jeremy Roberts NMRA FS 6811 OUTTA-CONTROL RACING
"He who dies with the most toys is still dead, so live like your dying"
how was it driving the auto around the course's.. I have a 2005 gt auto and im interested in getting into racing.. already been lookin into new seats.. since i doo have those awful leather seats that look good but suck in turns.
'I've read and have watched some vids.. and i seen a few driver vids who have made a auto drift pretty amazingly.. reading articles here ive noticed alot of people partial to the manuals.. never driven a manual car soo i only know what ive read.
since ive payed for the auto stang i guess im gunna just have to make due.. but need some driving tips and any how to's on drifting in a auto stang.. love seeing the tires smoke
For the autocross do you just need a helmet? Do you have to pay to play?
I would not mind getting out there and pushing my steed. She is a little bit fed up with going the limit. I want to race badly. I grew up on some windy dirt roads haulin tail.
Typical autocross events just require a helmet with a snell rating and made in the past 10 years. Check with the club you will be running with for more detailed info. The only other things you need to check is if you car is in good running order. They generally check for wheel play, that the battery is firmly secured, no severe leaks, throttle return, basic stuff like that.
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1989 Mustang GT: 5.0, 5spd
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75mm TB, Trickflow intake, headers, off road H pipe, MM lower control arms, Ford racing upper control arms, MM full length subframe connectors, Bilstien shocks all around, H & R springs all around, 3g alternator, Black Magic Xtreme electric fan, Stainless Steel Brake lines
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Cruising, autocrossing, and road racing car. Also, busted engine!
that was really a nice post to gain some information. and guys i dont think these days we need any safeties, all people seem to come to collide with us