I know this question has been asked before but I can not find a thread about it. I have a black car that has a white wax residue in the jambs and body lines. What is recommended to remove residue without affecting surrounding areas? I had the car painted 6 months ago, so most of the residue is less than 6 months old.
This is the reason I stopped using paste wax. I started a thread with the same topic a while back if you can find it I got tons of answers...I tried using a pencil eraser but not only did it remove the wax, but it faded the black trim. Have you cinsidered the switch to spray wax or liquid wax? I did its so much cleaner and the finish is just as good imo.
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-A7X- ~Stang Syndicate Boston~*2006 Torch Red GT*10/10/07 Performance:Borla FRPP Stingers w/ True Dual Midpipes, Magnaflow High Flow Cats, JLT CAI, Bama 93 Race Tune, Ford Racing 4.10 Gears, Nitto 555 Extremes. Visual: Black AVS Tail Light Trim, Honeycomb Tail Light Vinyl, Black Racing stripes, 35% Window Tint, Trunk Blackout Panel, Billet Antenna Delete, Mirror Covers, 17" Konig "Further" Rims, Quarter Window Louvers, 20% Tinted Head Light/Turn Signal, Boss C-Stripes, CS/GT C-Scoops.
This is the reason I stopped using paste wax. I started a thread with the same topic a while back if you can find it I got tons of answers...I tried using a pencil eraser but not only did it remove the wax, but it faded the black trim. Have you cinsidered the switch to spray wax or liquid wax? I did its so much cleaner and the finish is just as good imo.
I agree. I paste waxed once, had the same problem. I read a thread about the spray wax, used it and need I say I'm satisfied with the results. Still have some residue to remove, will try the toothbrush method. Good thing is I am not causing anymore
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2008 Mustang GT, auto, Procharger Stage II 10 psi, 4:10 gears, Eaton LSD, ATI Ratchet Shifter, SLP line locks, Shaftmasters D/S, BMR Safety Loop, Dash Tripod, Autometer Guages, CDC Aggressive Chin Spoiler, SS Valance, Xenon side scoops, Staggered Bullitts, Roush Off Road Exhaust, CHE uca/lca, CHE axle brace, CHE anti-squat brackets, tinted windows, billet hood pins, b/shield, t/light bezel trim, fog light bezel trim, rear qtr marker bezel trim, sequentials, Headlight Splitters, All lenses Tinted
For those who insist paste is the best and continue to use it tape off molding with painters tape , also most of the time people apply to much which is why most regret using it afterwards if its hard to take of you used to much , you should get a light haze not a thick swirl, I detail cars and a can of collinite wax lasts me two years (28.00 per can) its a hard pure white carnuba, to remove from plastic or rubber molding apply degreaser (mild) to a cotton cloth (do not get on paint)and apply to moldings , toothbrushes work great in crevices , save time and prep before with tape it saves time later whether you use liquid or paste.
Not to hijack this thread but whats up with people using toothbrushes on their car??? I saw a commercial with a guy cleaning his GTO with his wifes toothbrush. I don't see what a toothbrush will get that a rag won't. Please explain lol.
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-A7X- ~Stang Syndicate Boston~*2006 Torch Red GT*10/10/07 Performance:Borla FRPP Stingers w/ True Dual Midpipes, Magnaflow High Flow Cats, JLT CAI, Bama 93 Race Tune, Ford Racing 4.10 Gears, Nitto 555 Extremes. Visual: Black AVS Tail Light Trim, Honeycomb Tail Light Vinyl, Black Racing stripes, 35% Window Tint, Trunk Blackout Panel, Billet Antenna Delete, Mirror Covers, 17" Konig "Further" Rims, Quarter Window Louvers, 20% Tinted Head Light/Turn Signal, Boss C-Stripes, CS/GT C-Scoops.
a toothbrush has longer bristles for some of us that used to have metal fender moldings or even on todays fender flares ( ex -zr2 fender extensons)the brisles get in the crevice the a rag or micro towel wont if you see on the commercial he is using the toothbrush on the fenderwell molding crevice .I suppose if your usinga high speed buffer with liquid and get sloppy spinning it everywhere you might have to use the toothbrush , or if you glob on the paste and are in a rush and mush it under a molding you would have to use one sometimes a cotton cloth can get caught under the metal or wont fit I rarely use one I use detail brushes on cracks and crevices inside most of the time
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Last edited by Red02GT; 01-20-2008 at 11:24 PM.
Reason: error in typing
I am interested in the collinwax. I went on their website but you have to be a dealer to buy from them. It seems all the wax I have been using does not last. I have tried gold class which didnt last one carwash, Zymol which left a greasy film that attracted dust and NXT which so far looked the best but it did not give an even shine and left behind some type of crystal residue that looked like pinheads in the paint that I could scratch off with my nails. The car is black and short of stripping or claying the wax to remove it again, maybe the collinite double duty or the one with the high concentration of canuba might satisfy the black paint and me. Which one would you reccomend? Getting tired off these store bought brands. Need some pro stuff and advice. thanks
Last edited by ontheball2; 01-21-2008 at 07:20 PM.
Reason: spelling
Paste Wax Residue Removal 
