I got this little dent in my Mustang that is right to the side of the side scoop on my 96 GT. So i was wondering what is the best way to remove the side scoop on a 94-98 Mustang.
well...from what i understand the scoops are just held on with regular old friction clips(is that what they are called).the samew type of clips that hold the a pillar interior trim in place and the door sill trim in place. i believe you can just get a good grip and they pull off....BUT I'M NOT POSSITIVE... so please use your own discretion.....good luck...let me know if i was right.
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1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
Well I went to pull on it right now and i finished cracking the damn thing, LOL. Oh well, it was cracked to begin with and i was planning to put on some Xenon scoops instead but thanks for the help anyways.
i still pretty sure thats how they are installed...they are just really hard to pull off. i have cervini's scoops. you are probably gonna hafta replace the original scoop too cuz you can still see the factory scoop even when the xenon/cervini's is installed. i think the reason that you cracked yours more when trying to get it off was because it was already cracked...so it was weak. good luck...and let me know how everything turns out.
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1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
I believe they have nuts holding them on. My 94GT convertable had on of the cables bolted to it.
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66 Candyapple Red coupe
302 w/ 351 heads ported C6 auto (yes, made it fit!)
BIG hydraulic roller cam, roller rockers
working on the B&M blower right now
Hoping for an E2 kit one day!!!
No, do not just pull them out. You will need to remove the rear seat first.
1. Take a flathead screwdriver and push in the two plastic lock clips that hold the rear seat (Lower half) in place as you pull the seat up. These clips are located between the lower part of the rear seat and the floorboard, about 12 inches from the interior sides. (You can actually pull the seats up to see these white clips. Remove lower half and set aside.
2. Reomve the rear seat (upper half) by removing the upper and lower bolts that hold it into place. The uppers are easily accessed by folding the seats down. Once the upper is removed set it aside.
3. Remove the plastic interior pannel. (I have not done this in a while, so forgive me if I am wrong on this one. I am a little sketchy). There are push covers that will need to be removed. This will allow access to the bolts that hold the pannels to the body. Once the interior pannel is removed the bolts that hold the scoops in will be visible.
4. Remove these bolts and pull the scoops out. I believe there is some 3M 2 sided tape also holding them in. If this is the case, heat the scoops up with a heat gun to loosen the tape and the scoops should pry right out (using a putty knife with a rag around the balde to protect the paint.
Good luck!
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1998 Saleen S-281 (Metallic Purple)
ProCharger P-1SC supercharger with sheet metal intercooler,Stage II Methanol injection,D.S.S. Level 20 short block .040+ balanced/ blueprinted,310 Stroker,Patriot Motorsports heads,Diablosport chip custom tunedn,Comp Cams (custom grinds)...and so on...