My 91 mustang has water spots that developed and i cannot get to come out. I know they cant be permanent and i was wondering how to get them out. Car wash and wax doesent work.
Or, it could be your water. Do you wash you car at home? If it happens alot, get a water softener. That will keep the from forming. Otherwise, shammy it down after you wash it.
i know it sounds funny but good old ZYMOL car wax otta do the trick....that stuff works pissa. makes your paint look like new....no kiddin'
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1998 SVT Cobra #4941 of 5174 built on June 19,1998
4.30s, Speedcal, WMS CAI, Pro 5.0 shifter, Sniper Tuner, March pulleys, Mac O/R H pipe, Flowmaster orig. 40's, King Cobra clutch, D/S rotors, FRPP 9mm's, Max. Motorsports C/C plates, Termy front control arms, H&R SS springs, MM solid steering rack bushings, Tokico HP struts and shocks, Mac subrames, HID Bi-Xenon 6000k kit, Saleen 18" wheels, Saleen S-281 spoiler, sequential tails
Up Next: Termi diff, 31 spline Axles, LPW girdle, MM LCAs
Get yourself a good cleaner/polish/wax combination from either meguiars, mothers, 3M. Wash your car, use all the above. Then next time you wash your car follow it with meguiars final inspection spray. This will bring back a great shine and remove water sports and over contaminants.
I would try 3M Imperial Hand Glaze (Part # 05990)
You may have tro go to your local auto paint store
or order it online, but I hae had REALLY good luck
with a variety of paint finish issues with this stuff,
it can be applied by hand, than follow up with your
favorite polish/wax since the glaze does not contain
any silicone or wax.
wow some people in this post know what they are talking about. yes waterspots suck, yea the claybar does wonders for them. either get a clay bar and go over it with some soap and water with that then compound it. if that dont work wetsand and buff it with 1500 grit. go out an spend some money on quailty products like the guy said about the 3M. they make a extra cut rubbing compound works great for cutting out those 1500 grit marks once you do that hit it with the foam white pad that 3m sells after that get the black pad that 3m sells and hit it with there finishing glaze. keep your buffer from 1000 to 1500 rpm faster you go the more swirl marks you will get let the compound do the work not the buffer flying at 3000rpm burning the paint up.
Hey Killamuh50, does the same process hold true for acid rain stains? They seem to be etched into the paint.
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2000 Laser Red GT. MAC cold air, MAC 3 1/2 inch exhaust, PRO 5.0 shifter, March underdrive pulleys, various MGW interior parts, 17x9 Ford SVT Cobra wheels w/BFG KDWS 275x40's, 3.73 FRPP
yea rain is rain it will probably etch into the clear is what your seeing unless its etching into a single stage paint. clear on the car is base clear since your car is a 2000 i would have to say its base/clear on the car. difference is single stage is 1 stage to painting it so you have the paint you reduce it with single stage reducer then you activate it with a catalyst or hardener then you paint it on in 1 stage and its done it hardens and looks like its shiny but there is no clear coat with single stage. Base/clear is what is known as 2 stage paint there is a basecoat then a clear coat. when you spray base/clear you spray the base first then it will flash off. flashing is like drying it will dull out like primer does. then you would mix your clear and clear over the dull base to make it come to life. id really have to see what the acid rain marks or what your talking about looks like. you figure if it rains on the car then the sun hits it, it will kinda like bake that nasty water into the clear. the clay bar will pick up alot of the dirt etc in the paint and also take alot of the water marks out but then your still gonna have to polish/wax it after you do that. But if you wetsand it down with say like 1500 grit all your doing is your knocking down a coat of the clear a little. if you do it yourself just let the paper do the work and keep it wet dont push hard then you'll just cut the clear down more and might eventually hit the base. Think of paint jobs like layers of paper stacked on each other. thats all. Just go buy some good compound like 3M products are great ive used stuff that detail places would try to push on selling you when i worked for my buddies detail shop and there compounds sucked compared to 3M. I swear that 3Ms extra cut rubbing compond is good. I bet you could probably cut out 1000 or 1200 grit marks with it like its nothing. But yea i would say you could use the same process with acid rain or water spots its all the same. If you dont want the rain to mess the car up if you leave it outside buy a quailty waterproof car cover and put it over it when your not driving it. if you drive it everyday it will kinda be a pain in the am taking a car cover off everyday. either way mother nature will always do its work on paint finishes on cars. from the rain to snow to salts in the road to the sunlight beating on it. good luck
Water spots on red paint 
