Try my time saving method next time you clay your car...The first 2-3 times I used a clay bar on my car I followed the package instructions step by step... then I got smart.It makes no sense to wash the car, spend all that time drying it off, and then immediately wet it down again with lubricant spray to use the clay bar on it.What I do now is wash and clay the car at the same time. I thoroughly wash a section with car soap, then use the clay bar while the soap is still on the paint surface. (The soap acts as a lubricant and works just as well as the stuff in the spray bottle). When I finish claying a section I rewash it, rinse off with the hose, and then dry the car when I'm done. No need to wash, dry, lubricate, clay, wash again, and dry again.I've been using this method for the past 5 years. I save a lot of time, I don't need lubricant spray, the paint on my cars looks absolutely beautiful and the surface is as smooth as glass.
Try my time saving method next time you clay your car...The first 2-3 times I used a clay bar on my car I followed the package instructions step by step... then I got smart.It makes no sense to wash the car, spend all that time drying it off, and then immediately wet it down again with lubricant spray to use the clay bar on it.What I do now is wash and clay the car at the same time. I thoroughly wash a section with car soap, then use the clay bar while the soap is still on the paint surface. (The soap acts as a lubricant and works just as well as the stuff in the spray bottle). When I finish claying a section I rewash it, rinse off with the hose, and then dry the car when I'm done. No need to wash, dry, lubricate, clay, wash again, and dry again.I've been using this method for the past 5 years. I save a lot of time, I don't need lubricant spray, the paint on my cars looks absolutely beautiful and the surface is as smooth as glass.
Glad you have a routine that works for you, but your recommendation is not always so safe as a general rule.
Just a few words of caution...
A car wash solution does not always provide proper lubricity -- factors include quality of the concentrate, water hardness, and proper mix considering those two factors.
Improper lubrication can increase risk of marring.
A car wash solution can prematurely degrade clay, so in the end you're not saving a heck of a lot.
If you use an approved detailing spray as your lubricant, you increase your chances of a quality result.
Glad you have a routine that works for you, but your recommendation is not always so safe as a general rule.
Just a few words of caution...
A car wash solution does not always provide proper lubricity -- factors include quality of the concentrate, water hardness, and proper mix considering those two factors.
Improper lubrication can increase risk of marring.
A car wash solution can prematurely degrade clay, so in the end you're not saving a heck of a lot.
If you use an approved detailing spray as your lubricant, you increase your chances of a quality result.
You are right. I would not do it that way neither. Wash the car dry it and then clay it. I do not take shortcuts on my car.
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2002 Saleen S/C Coupe
#293 Torch Red
Power in the hands of a few
I appreciate your concern(s) and cautionary notes and will take them under advisement. I guess I should have been a little more descriptive in my post...
My Mustang is a daily driver- not a show car.
I wash frequently (usually weekly) but I only clay my cars once a year.
I use copious amounts of car wash soap concentrate so there is more than ample lubrication protecting the paint while I'm working. I also use a very gentle touch while I work. As you know, it is not necessary [or advisable] to "bear down" on the paint with the clay.
My method works fine for me, but I do appreciate the information... Thanks!
Okay, I'm a new guy here but an Elder in other places!
I use the clay bar twice a year (Hershey PA area). I first wash with Dawn, clay bar, then Dawn again. You can use just about anything to keep the clay moving - detail spray, car wash and water, or whatever. One of the important things to remember is to keep the surface wet as you clay bar.
I use Adams products simple because I have them on hand right now, they are not the best and for sure, and not the worse. I'll be looking when the stuff I have runs out.
I start with Scratch Out or a mix of Scratch Out and Revive Polish depending on how bad the winter (or whatever) has been. I then polish, then wax.
Like I said - I'm not endorsing Adams products, I have them on hand and won't toss them just to try something new. I will be looking for something new when I use these ... let me know what I should be looking for ... please!
Okay, I'm a new guy here but an Elder in other places!
I use the clay bar twice a year (Hershey PA area). I first wash with Dawn, clay bar, then Dawn again. You can use just about anything to keep the clay moving - detail spray, car wash and water, or whatever. One of the important things to remember is to keep the surface wet as you clay bar.
I use Adams products simple because I have them on hand right now, they are not the best and for sure, and not the worse. I'll be looking when the stuff I have runs out.
I start with Scratch Out or a mix of Scratch Out and Revive Polish depending on how bad the winter (or whatever) has been. I then polish, then wax.
Like I said - I'm not endorsing Adams products, I have them on hand and won't toss them just to try something new. I will be looking for something new when I use these ... let me know what I should be looking for ... please!
I am endorsing them. They are the best products that I have ever used. I use only there stuff. Nice to see there is at least one other that uses there products.
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2002 Saleen S/C Coupe
#293 Torch Red
Power in the hands of a few
ok first the bad
clay bar actually works as a extremly high grit wet sand.
- do it when necesary not 2 to 3 times per year
- it will remove clear coat
the good
- the clear it removes prevents pitting in clear which will cause
more damage than removing it a little clear
- and it dose work as advertised
i have clay bared a lot my friends daily driven 98 svt countour w/ 160k mi. recieved 2nd at nopi nationals in 2006 with original paint!
how to use and when:
wash the car before clay with dawn (or some sort of ultra (grease cutting) dish soap) this will clean your car as good or better than 90% of car washes to remove and hard bugs use a foaming window cleaner...
clay the car and soap water will work to lubricate the paint
then use a cleaner wax and two coats of finishing wax allowing 6 - 12hours between finishing coats 2 to 3 hours before after the final coat use a spray bottle and mist portions of the car and wipe it dry with a clean micro fiber cloth. for the next 2 to 3 months all you will need to do is dust at most a light wash with a MILD detergent. after that peroid re-wash and use ceaner wax and finishing wax. only clay bar if it is necesary! not just cause you think it could be a little smoother...
good luck!
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04' 40th Aniversary GT : Cat delete, H-pipe, Flowmaster 40 series, Pioneer AVH-P4000DVD, 12"Memphis sub.
Future mods: suspension (as soon as i get back from Iraq in dec!), 18x10 & 18x9 fr500's, cobra front clip (after deployment), programmer, forced induction, CAI, Coil Pack, forged internals, 3v swap, pi heads and intake manifold, and a t-56
A lot of people recommend a dish soap pre-wash, but it's harsh on all of your finishes and should not be done except in extreme conditions.
Clay should not be thought of as high grit wet sand -- the process and methodology -- and the safety of it -- is much different. An aggressive pro clay can induce marring, but a consumer clay will not unless used wrong. Consumer clay does not wear your clear coat -- if it does, you're doing something wrong.
If it's acting like wet sanding for you, that's because you're not using the proper lubricant or proper methods or both.
Car wash solution is not enough lubrication. In addition, car wash degrades the clay. It's cheaper to buy a proper lubricant than it is to buy clay.
On daily drivers you'll probably find you'll want to do clay more often than 2-3 times per year, and properly done with a quality consumer clay you should have no problems doing it twice that.
Wax with your favorite 1-step wax (usually included in the kit) or 2- or 3-step system. Most consumer products don't have a 12 hour cure time and thus you can follow usually follow immediately with an optional last-step product if you like for added protection (e.g., a pure wax). Beyond that it's not worth the effort because the marginal curve is not in your favor for shine or durability -- the shine is in the first step (and/or second step), not in additional coats of protection.
Wash frequently with a quality car wash, use a nice spray wax to keep it looking glossy and lasting longer... and to keep bugs from sticking.
This is great thread. I feel like running out to the store and getting some clay right now! As for the dish soap... a few people in this thread have said to use it, however, only one against it. I've always heard no on dish soap use. So, I am curious what others think/heard about the topic. I've been using Meguires or Turtle Wax brand car wash for a few years now with good results.
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1986 Mustang GT - BBK Cold-Air Induction - Flowmaster American Thunder aftercat system - Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter - Summit Racing High Flow Water Pump - 160 Degree Thermostat - Sony MP3/CD Player - Otherwise, All Stock and Loving it.
