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Old 09-14-2003   #1 (permalink)
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Question Seat Swap '2003 to '94

Does anyone know if bucket seats from a 2003 hardtop GT will bolt directly into a '94 vert GT?

I'm only interested in swapping out the front seats. I know the back ones will not work.

THANKS!!!!
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Old 09-14-2003   #2 (permalink)
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yes they should fit fine .
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Old 09-14-2003   #3 (permalink)
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As far as I know they'll work fine, just like Jason said.

A buddy of mine dyed a set of 2001 Premium GT seats and put them in a 93 Hatch, looks awesome.
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Old 09-14-2003   #4 (permalink)
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THANKS for the replies guys!!! I thought so but wanted to make sure.

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Old 11-11-2003   #5 (permalink)
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I completed this swap about a month ago and wanted to let y'all know of some of the issues I ran across in case anyone else wants to try this.

The donor seats were from a 2003 hardtop GT...full power leather seats.

The seats being replaced were 1994 leather in a vert GT...full power

I had hoped that this would be a simple bolt-in job. No such luck but not an impossible task. Fortunately the rails and all controls were included with the seats.

Passenger side - The mounting rails are completly different. If your old seat track is worn out, make sure you can get one to match the one that comes out. Fortunately the seat pan mounting holes are identical in the old and new seats. In order to do the swap you have to take the rails from the old seat and mount on the new seat. Beware of the tension on the springs when removing the pan bolts...spring loaded seat tracks can do some pretty good soft-tissue damage if you are not paying attention to what you are doing.The new seat will bolt right in after the rail swap...easy as pie.

Drivers side - The power seats are a completely new design from 1994 to 2003. LUCKILY on the drivers side, the seat track rails on the 2003 seat match up with the holes in the 1994 floor pan. The electronics are a completely different story. The 1994 power seat has a two-wire plug. The 2003 seats have a 4 wire plug due to the fact that the seatbelt is attached to the seat. You will need to strip the old connector ends, match the larger wires(Large ones are the power supply, small ones are 2003 seatbelt wiring)...black to black, blue to blue for the power seat...and connect with a new connector which is eay as strippin the wire ends and clipping on a new connector. BE SURE to not let the ends of the wires touch during this process...or better yet, make sure you have a few replacement fuses on hand. I think they are the 6 amp green ones under the hood. The book has a diagram that I had to reference. I blew two 'high-voltage' fuses under the hood during the process. The two smaller wires on the 2003 seat can be sealed off with electrical tape as they are seat belt related.

The seat belt mounts are no real problem. 1994 mounts are on the floor pan. 2003 are on the seats. Removing the 2003 mounts is easy...one bolt and they are off so that you can use the original floor mounted seatbelt setup. As mentioed, seal off the wires on the new 2003 drivers seat.

Drawbacks...2003 seat has no lumbar control...1994 did, and I loved it for long drives. 2003 design is slightly different. The 'bucket' seating is not quite as much of a 'bucket' and lateral support is less...that is more of a preference decision.

Positive...headrest looks better that the old 1994 fat one IMO. Pony stitching looks good. 2003 drivers seat has seat tilt control options...1994 did not have tilt, only up/down, back/forward. And most importantly, no big-ass holes from 9 years of wear and tear.

I have no idea what year Ford changed the seat design...but I'm sure I'm not the only person to say' "Oh S&!%" at first look when they had a look at the underside of a SN95 drivers seat side-by-side with a newer power seat. The difference is like looking under the hood of a pre-electronic controlled engine versus a new Cobra.

Y'all have fun!

;-)
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Old 11-12-2003   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks for the update . Glad you got it done . Did you take any pics ?
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Old 11-22-2003   #7 (permalink)
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Nah...no pics yet. I'm not too superstitious but EVERY time I've photographed a vehicle of mine, something damaging has happened to it almost immediately after. I'm gonna break my fear and click some pics to post soon.

I will say this regarding the seats...I like the advanced tilt controls on the 2003 model, but the seating surface construction quality on the 1994 model was far superior in my case and I absolutely miss the air lumbar adjustment. I dont see these 2003 seats coming anywhere close to lasting 9 years and the 156K hard worn miles like the old 1994 ones. I can see the 2003 seats coming apart at the seams more quickly and the leather quality does not seem to be as good. The 1994 drivers seat held up well until I slacked up on the leather conditioner a couple of years ago...marriage guys...don't neglect your pony. And it was the faux part on the side that finally gave up the ghost.

The reason I went with 2003 seats was that they were under 1/2 the cost of a local upholstry shop re-covering my old seats and I figured they would be of comparable quality. The PERFECT seat IMO would be the new power options with the old 1994/1995 seating surface minus the headrest. I prefer the newer style headrest. And its gotta have the inflatable lumbar...i cant say how much I miss that.

If I had it to do over again...I'd have kept lookin til I found some decent 1994/1995 seats and paid the same as i did for the new 2003 ones.

;-)
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Old 11-23-2003   #8 (permalink)
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Lemme correct myself after re-reading the post. The drivers seat did have a lumbar adjustment...I just could not get it to work when installing teh seat and forgot about it as I was posting.

Any ideas on why the lumbar pump on the new seat will not work when all the other controls do?

;-)
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Old 09-03-2007   #9 (permalink)
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First post here.

I am doing the same thing with my 94, and was wondering two things... A) where did you get new rails for the passenger seat? B) Secondly, could you post pictures of how you worked out the 2 connection to the 4 connection of the new seats?

Thanks.
Pete
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Old 09-03-2007   #10 (permalink)
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Better question. If the top two are the seatbelt ones, can't I just cut off both connectors and electrical tape the black to black, blue to blue without any connectors? Let me know.
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Old 09-08-2007   #11 (permalink)
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Alright. So I just finished the swap, and it really was not very difficult to get everything working.

All I did was cut off the connectors, buy replacement two point connectors (male/female) then sautered all of the positive wires (all but the black wire) together on the seat, then those to the new connector's "pigtail". Same with the negative, then the same with the connector going to the seat. Didn't blow any fuses, just had small pieces of shrink wrap on the wire when I sautered the wires, moved the shrink wrap down, heated and voila.

Now the seat works perfect, and there is nothing that doesn't work. Forward/backward. Up/down. Lumbar. Everything works. Just wanted to give you a heads up. I wanted to get some pictures as well... but I already bolted the seat down, and it's a pain in the ass to get it back up.

If you really want pictures though, pm me.
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