My headlights were completely yellowed when I bought this product called lens renew. It was 40 bucks, but I followed the directions step by step and my headlights look brand new. I even had enough of the product to do my corners and turn signals. I still had enough left to help my buddy do the lights on his neon. If your lights are old looking, don't buy new ones. Refinish them yourself. There are several products on the market that do the same thing, so you have choices, I just used this one in particular and I know for a fact it works.
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1988 Supercharged 'Vert - SOLD!!!
1970 F100 - 10 bolt posi Rear end, Fuel Injected 302, Traction Bars, EQ shorties, Bed Cover, Custom Interior with power leather seats- custom dash/console, AOD w/ B&M shifter, Tubbed w/ 15x10s rear and 15x7s up front, no emissions junk and it's LEGAL!!!
"Only two defining forces have ever offerred to die for you: Je$us Christ and the American G.I." - Author Unknown
Just be prepared to do them again. I did mine early last spring using the 50Resto kit and now they look like they did before I "fixed" them. My humble opinion is that the $150 for a complete 6 light kit with seals is the way to go. Less elbow grease and less hassles in the long run. I really don't want to do this every year!
They did look good for awhile though!
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1990 Red Mustang GT Convertible, Street Crusier, not a racer
K&N Air Filter, 70mm BBK Throttle Body, MAC Shorty Headers, 2 1/2" DynoMax High Flow Cats, Flowmaster 2-chamber Mufflers, Ford Racing 3.73 Gears, American Performance Cobra R 16x8 Wheels, LenTech Street Crusier Trans w/Street terminator valve-body
Homepage for my project - www.wqred50.home.comcast.net
A work in progress!!!!
Family Vehicles:
- 2003 Ford Windstar SE and a 1999 Ford Expedition XLT 4x4
i replaced mine when the car was painted last year. figured they were out of the car already, so why not replace them. i got a 6 piece set on ebay with seals for $100.
a cheaper thing to use is chrome polish. yes you have to do it more often, but it does take out the yellow. however, replacing them is a better option.
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98 GT Black on Black, Brembo Gran Turismo's up front and cobra rear upgrades in back, Gramlight 57c's 18x8.5 & 18x9.5 toyo t1r's, PI heads and intake, densecharger cai, trick flow plenum, b&m hammer shifter with ARC titanium shift knob, bbk tuned shorty headers, bbk catless x-pipe, flowmaster cat back, tokico illumina shocks, struts and spings, steeda strut bar, diablosport tune, strange posi and diff cover and billion other things I can't remember.
im pisstt with my aftermarkets. i got them off ebay, 150 bucks, dude charges me 30 bucks shipping!! 180 dollars so far, and then he sends it to the wrong address. bad experiance to say the least. but they were nice for about 4 months, then started holding water/condensation. after 3 times of blow-drying them out. i had enough and got "the right stuff" gasket maker and sealed those like a mo fo. BUT, now the inners are already turning brown. so im going to get the new 1 pieces!!
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White 89 hatchback. 4cyl auto to 5.0 manual. k&n intake. 150 amp alt. msd ingition and distributor. accel super stock wires. yellow-top bat. raizin voltage stabilizer kit. MAC shorty equal lengths. off road H with flows. king cobra clutch. hurst shifter. 3.55's. lowered. mach 1 hood.
Chrysler 300M's and some other cars are prone to the foggy / yellow pitting in the lenses. I removed the lights (Pain with these cars since it requires removing the front fascia), started wet sanding with 1000 grit, moved up to 1500 and then 2000 grit. Finished it off with some Mothers Plastic Polish using my PC7336 and a 4" buffing pad. They look brand new.
Funny thing was that my parents took the car to the dealer to have them fix he issue. They charged $100.00 and tried twice with no luck. They eventually refunded the money.
Refinishing yellow headlights 
