[birdman076]

Anyone know of a great Ford mechanic or shop that can sort out my engine problems in Pasco county Florida? I have messed with the car way too much and am getting very discouraged almost to the point of wanting to sell it. I seem to have the same problem alot of others do on here, the car runs extremely rich and rough at idle, The timing bounces around by 7 to 10 degrees at idle, pops, backfires, hesitates, and generally runs like azz. It ran awsome the 1st day I bought it, after that it developed problems and continues to get worse. I have replaced just about every sensor with the exception of:Bap, ACT, and ECT, EGR is non functional so it shouldnt be a factor. The car still runs the same, this weekends project is consisting of replacing the original battery cables and running additional grounds to the block, heads, trans, computer, and chassis. I am hoping this will alleviate some issue or at the very minimum make the lights brighter lol.

Here is the run down of what has been done:

New O2's, new IAC, new MAF, New oil pressure switch, new TPS, new cap, new rotor, new plugs, new 190lph pump, Ohmed out the 8mm motor sport wires.

Set TPS voltage, tried to idle the car up per instructions found on this site 4 times all same result ( car will idle up but then hangs at 1500 the 1000 then settles to 850-950 after about 30 seconds or so. Tried another coil, cleaned the salt and pepper connectors, checked all my fuses, tried a different FPR, tried different injectors. Checked for vacuum leaks ( 10 inches at idle but im running a big cam X303). Verified fuel pressure with a new gauge that is still installed about 35 or 36 at idle and goes to 40 41 when throttle is opened. I have tried a adjustable FPR and went from 30 to 50 no difference. Have also tried different timing points to no avail.

Was told by a local shop that they couldnt run computer diagnostics on the car because MAF and IAC were bad, they did however charge me the $80 for the test they couldnt run.

Changed IAC and MAF, car runs and idles somewhat better but is deteriorating from that condition once again.

I do not want to get hosed again by a shop that does not specialize in performance cars, or by any shop for that matter, and I do not want to keep changing sensors and parts as a shotgun fix.

There has to be someone who knows what diagnostics to run to correctly trouble shoot the car and problems I am having.

I know on here people are a big help but its a hit or miss thing without seeing or hearing the car run, driving it,testing etc.


I am sure I have done more but cannot remember at this time.

[mustang8719]

How far are you from Orlando?There are a few mustang specialty shops in Orlando.

[nails79]

your running 19# injectors, dont remeber what pressure you said, with an x cam, i would think you need at least 24# injectors, what is your mass air meter calibrated for?? 19#??

[One_Quik_Pony]

It should run fine with #19 injectors...cleaner idle quality and responsiveness.

C&L uses a interchangeable pitot tube for different injector sizing. Do you have the correct tube installed?

The timing bounces around with the spout connector removed? If so that would have to be a timing chain issue or a distributor shaft/gear issue.

[birdman076]

I am about 2 hrs from Orlando and would not drive the car that far as it does run but not well.

I am running 19lb injectors, yes I do have the proper sampling tube for the C & L. I tried a set of 24s with the proper sampling tube and it ran just as bad. I have checked the timing chain for slop by removing the distributor cap and rotating the motor, there is no play at all period. I was told that may be a hal effect sensor ( stator) problem or computer but have yet to try those. I had an adjustable regulator on it but the regulator had no vacuum provisions so I removed it and put the stocker back on which is fine.

This weekends project is the grounding system as I found my ground cable going from the battery to the block to be in real bad shape, hardly any insulation left on it. I got some 1 gauge battery cable for both + and - and will be also running 8 gauge cable from the computer, firewall, head, block, and frame directly to the neg on the battery thereby grounding the whole car together. I will post whether or not this makes a change. I had to set my TPS at .93 to get the slow idle return problem somewhat dealt with. The car seems to have better response but still hangs around 1400 then to 1000 then normal 850 to 900. This BTW is the only way to get the car to idle at all, if I move the idle back to original it will idle at 650 to 750 but will hunt upon start and stall out. Alot of electrical systems were blown when I originally got the car, this has lead me to think the Computer is the problem but many people have assured me that it has internal protection from over voltage and it is fine. I still have my doubts but without a shop that knows what they are doing I cannot toss more money without positive results. Money is extra tight now since my son's birth, I have one "mechanic" who swears he has been working on 5.0s since 86 and he can solve my problem. I am hesitant because he is the guy who told me to put 24lb injectors into a rich running car but he says he will only charge me 2 hrs labor and work / diagnose the car for a full day with me. I will post results after the cable installs this weekend.

Thanks for all the help

Chuck

[o66cooter]

Hey Birdman, feel your pain. My 94 5.0 has the "won't return to idle" problem too! I've changed as many sensors and parts as you have and I like you am lost. I really hope that someone on this site will read this and take the time to post their knowledge of the problem and its solution here. o66cooter

[Kyle F]

Wel, the grounding issue can play havoic on your electrical system.

Here is another though, have you checked to any intake leaks? Could be a smal one and its running the IAc all over the place trying to compensate.

[ford4315]

You can try this link Welcome to MobileOval.com - Orlando Florida's Best Ford mechanic shop! , they are Ford Factory Certified and are very knowledgeable at electronics.

The factory scan tool makes a world of difference, so find a mechanic that uses one. Most Ford specialty shops will have one.