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Old 05-07-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Default Have you ever noticedwhen cornering...

... your Fox body Cobra (or any Fox body for that matter) that when just starting to come out of the apex and getting on the gas, there is this weird feeling of like the tire is up on the sidewall? To me, it feels like the tire is scuffing on the sidewall, even though it isnt. A friend says its the body lifting on inside rear, and you do feel a bit of this also. It happens on my 93 Cobra and I remember feeling it on my 79LX that was set up for auto-X. Is this inhearant on the Fox body cars?
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Old 05-11-2007   #2 (permalink)
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I guess Im the only one that has experienced this...
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Old 05-11-2007   #3 (permalink)
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I guess Im the only one that has experienced this...
yeah, it's a combination of the flex in the chassis, the rear geometry, and the different roll centers.
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Old 05-11-2007   #4 (permalink)
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yeah, it's a combination of the flex in the chassis, the rear geometry, and the different roll centers.
So what whould a guy do to fight this problem? Atleast it seems like it could be a problem at some point.
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Old 05-11-2007   #5 (permalink)
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So what whould a guy do to fight this problem? Atleast it seems like it could be a problem at some point.

the first things to tackle is the chassis flex.

Subframe connectors, 4 pt brace and strut tower brace.

Front geometry can be addressed with a K-member.

rear - has a lot of options.
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Old 05-11-2007   #6 (permalink)
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the first things to tackle is the chassis flex.

Subframe connectors, 4 pt brace and strut tower brace.

Front geometry can be addressed with a K-member.

rear - has a lot of options.
Thanks for the info...
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Old 05-11-2007   #7 (permalink)
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Steeda Upper and lower control arms, Tubular k-member, also put in the torque box kits for the rear.
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Old 05-11-2007   #8 (permalink)
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Steeda Upper and lower control arms, Tubular k-member, also put in the torque box kits for the rear.
I'd ditch the uppers completely, that's where half the problem is.

If I went with Steeda, I'd do the 5-link, it's the best engineered of their systems.
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Old 05-11-2007   #9 (permalink)
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Rims, and tires that are of the low profile type, they flex least in the side wall coming out of a corner. 235 / 17 / 45 s would be a good choice.
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Old 05-11-2007   #10 (permalink)
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Rims, and tires that are of the low profile type, they flex least in the side wall coming out of a corner. 235 / 17 / 45 s would be a good choice.

If you're going fast enough to feel the flex, stepping up to low profile rubber without taking care of the chassis means two things.

1) you're gonna get cracks in your floorpan from the chassis flex

2) when you step up the rubber, you're gonna get snap oversteer.

Do the chassis first, then you can take care of the rest.
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Old 05-14-2007   #11 (permalink)
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Rims, and tires that are of the low profile type, they flex least in the side wall coming out of a corner. 235 / 17 / 45 s would be a good choice.
Running stock rims which are 17x7.5

Running stock size tire, which is 245/45/17 and have a new set of Sumitomo HTRZ ll's on the car. They are way sticky, so it's not a tire/rim thing. Body flex, probably. It actually feels like the outside rear body is lifting. Or almost like all the gas it sloshing to one side of the tank (that's what the feeling is like) but even with the tank full.

I really would like to keep the car as stock as possible, or atleast as stock looking as possible with only bolt on stuff so it can be returned back to stock easly.
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Old 05-14-2007   #12 (permalink)
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Running stock rims which are 17x7.5

Running stock size tire, which is 245/45/17 and have a new set of Sumitomo HTRZ ll's on the car. They are way sticky, so it's not a tire/rim thing. Body flex, probably. It actually feels like the outside rear body is lifting. Or almost like all the gas it sloshing to one side of the tank (that's what the feeling is like) but even with the tank full.

I really would like to keep the car as stock as possible, or atleast as stock looking as possible with only bolt on stuff so it can be returned back to stock easly.
yeah, the roll center of the rear is higher than the front.
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Woe to him who builds his palace by unrighteousness,his upper rooms by injustice,making his countrymen work for nothing...Does it make you a king to have more and more cedar?Did not your father have food and drink?He did what was right and just,so all went well with him. He defended the cause of the poor and needy,and so all went well...But your eyes and your heart are set only on dishonest gain,on shedding innocent blood and on oppression and extortion. Jer 22:13, 15-17
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Old 05-18-2007   #13 (permalink)
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yeah, the roll center of the rear is higher than the front.
Is that why it feels like the rear is lifting in the hard corners?
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Old 05-18-2007   #14 (permalink)
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Is that why it feels like the rear is lifting in the hard corners?

yes, the roll center of the rear is at ground level, in the front it's below the ground -so the rear roatates at a higher virtual level than the front.

It's what makes the fox & fox4 handling somewhat scary & prone to snap oversteer.

Tying the front and rear subframes help a LOT. also bigger sway bars help.

but you really have to take care of the fundamentals first.
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Woe to him who builds his palace by unrighteousness,his upper rooms by injustice,making his countrymen work for nothing...Does it make you a king to have more and more cedar?Did not your father have food and drink?He did what was right and just,so all went well with him. He defended the cause of the poor and needy,and so all went well...But your eyes and your heart are set only on dishonest gain,on shedding innocent blood and on oppression and extortion. Jer 22:13, 15-17
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Old 05-18-2007   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kscoyote View Post
yes, the roll center of the rear is at ground level, in the front it's below the ground -so the rear roatates at a higher virtual level than the front.

It's what makes the fox & fox4 handling somewhat scary & prone to snap oversteer.

Tying the front and rear subframes help a LOT. also bigger sway bars help.

but you really have to take care of the fundamentals first.
Thanks for the info. I went back al looked at your recomendations again. On this car, I want to be able to take it back to stock if needed without problems. This meen bolt on/off stuff only. If I can't do it that way, I'll just leave it as it and drive it easier. It's a really clean 93 Cobra with 35k origional miles on it and I don't want to start welding and chopping. May need to sell it someday and want it to be able to go back to stock if needed.
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