Can any of you wizzards direct me to what might be causing a squeaking noise on my 99 cobra (stock). It seems to go away after driving for a little while. It sounds like a pully, or belt, pushing in or out on the clutch does not seem to make a difference.
I had a noise similar pushing in or out on the clutch didn't seem to make a difference either, the problem was the TOB and pilot bearing and thats why pushing in or out on the clutch didn't matter, how many miles is on your car?
remove the belt and run the motor to see if it's a pulley.
The squeaking now seems to have gone away... again. The last few days when I start it the squeak is gone, this does not make me feel any better about it, I need to fix the problem but it makes it tough to diagnose.
The squeaking now seems to have gone away... again. The last few days when I start it the squeak is gone, this does not make me feel any better about it, I need to fix the problem but it makes it tough to diagnose.
with my problem it did the same thing then about 2 weeks later the TOB locked up, I'm not sure what kind of trans you have but I have a TR-3650 and there is a cover on the drivers side on the trans that you can open and see the TOB, input shaft ect. Opened it and I spun the bearing and ball bearings fell out.
Is there a way to check the TOB with out removing the transmission on a t-45, it's on a 99 cobra 5 spd. I bought the car used and in the carfax it shows a full transmission service not too far back, I really don't want to replace something that is not broke.
Where was the sound coming from? did it seem like the front of the engine on passenger side? It might has been your ABS Module making that noise. It's common at times for them to make strange sounds and then go away as quick as they came!! If a TOB is bad it's not all of a sudden gonna quiet down!
OK, the noise appears to be under the hood, somewhere. My observations so far are:
1) when it's happening, no matter what I do with the clutch, gear shift, go to nutral, push clutch in out ect. makes no difference, the noise stays the same. I'm beginning to think it's NOT the TOB.
2) Every time I get a pro ear to listen to it the noise stops, a real pain.
3) the noise goes with the engine RPMs, idle very low, rev it up, noise goes up and down with rpm.
4) my ear is telling me front of engine, perhaps an idler pully? ,as some of you have mentioned already.
How hard is it to remove the belt? I know what a bad bearing feels like I can check the idlers simple enough.
Running with-out the belt would not help me much because the noise is so dam inconsistant, I wouldn't know if it stopped because belt off or it just stopped.
I bought the car used and it was taken out of storage.
Here is what I've done so far and I'm becoming more comfortable with the car, I had her up to 110 on spedo and she was still climbing fast.
1)Replace front Rack-and-pin, it was leaking a little.
2)replce one rear brake caliper, small leak, very small but hay for $60 not worth taking a chance.
3)replace transmission fluid, used stock recomended stuff, motorcraft
4)New battery, it still had the original battery in it, started but weak.
5) New plugs, used the NGK t-55 one of you recomended
6) new Magnaflow exhaust from the cat's back
7) put the o2 eliminators on it, after a few days got the 02 check engine code.
9) all the basic stuff, oil change, (penzoil 5w-30 fully syn), not sure if it's good oil or not but that's what they had.
10) replace right rear half shaft, one of the cv-boots was tore, and cost of whole new half shaft with new boots, bearings, etc was under $100 so just replaced whole thing.
11) replace fuel filter, pain in ars to get at, but replaced.
12) two new tires, bought four but fronts were in pretty good shape so I put them on back, and put new on front and stored two for rear after done burning them off.
its probably the belt tentioners gat some wd40 or something next time it starts,and spray the berrings on tentioners if the noise stops thats the one. there the little wheels and brackets with springs in them that keep your belts tout. realeasy fix.
That is exactly what I did, but the results were inconcluseve. I took the pressure off the idlers also with a pribar and they both feel very smooth. I'll try it again because it's doing it badly right now. I'm sure leaning towards both the TOB and idler bearing in the clutch are bad.
OK, I know we have beaten this thing to death but.
My squeak has become worse, and I'm very certain it is coming from the clutch, and it always goes away after 5-10 minutes of driving.
I can veary the sounds and pitch of the squeak by feathering my clutch.
BUT, Why does it do it at idle? And why does it go up and down with engine RPM when clutch is in or out but sound does change when clutch is or out, the pitch changes.
My question is this, is my TOP touching the Pressure Plate fingers when it should NOT be? Or is it just the Pilot bearing making all the noise?
Can I adjust the TOP from under the car without removing anything? The clutch feels and engages at the very top of the peddel, it DOES NOT slip at all and feels pretty strong, two wheel, smoke-en burnouts are no problem (I don't do them too often) and zero clutch slipage in 4th or 5th full acceleration at any speed, or temp.
I have my Fidanza 2.1 clutch, TOP, Idle bearing, and PP, but it's going to be a week or two before I get to a lift and I'd still like to drive the car, but it's so dam annoying.
NOTE: I have completely eliminated the idler pullies, and with the noise pitch varying by clutch pressure, I'm certain that is the source. I wish it had been the idlers!
1999 Mustang Cobra squeak at idle and accelerate 
) and zero clutch slipage in 4th or 5th full acceleration at any speed, or temp.
