TUNING
Tuned on dynojet using sniper tuning software
Total Timing set to 26 degrees
DYNO NUMBERS
316rwhp @ 6300rpm
293.85 tq @ 5300rpm
Air Fuel Ratio 13.0-13.3 throughout pull
Curve is nice and flat not bumps just a steady increase to 6300 stays level till 6500 then starts to drop.
The car was broke in on the dyno. To set intial tune, no full throttle pull. The car was driven for approxiately 150-200 miles. It then was strapped to dyno for pulls car put down 309 with 22 degrees of total timing. Car was driven for about 100 more miles then retuned again putting down 310. Finally after driving car another 100 miles timing was up to 26 and the car put down 316.
The car doesnt smoke at all not, no leaks, no nothing.
Ok I just picked up the car. I am going to drive it for a week or so then bring it back for more tuning or whatever. The cars has a very noticeable cam in it. I mean the thing shakes likes crazy.
Currently the cars likes to die at lights on occasion, and the CAI sucks so much air it sounds like I have a turbo on it.
To me the cars runs a little rough, but I was told that was due to the cams.
By my seat of the pants measures, it doesn't feel as good as it did before. Before from a roll at ~15mph I could nail it and it would roast the tires and when I would hit second it would roast them again. Now at 15mph it doesn't spin at all and shifting to second yeilds a small chirp.
Car put down 320rwhp with a stock block with only CAI, ford racing shorty headers, basanni catted x-pipe, flowmaster catback, UDP, throttle body, and a dyno tune.
Just doesnt make sense that the car would not make more power. Most people with the similar setups make at least 335 where as most are above 350.
I dont see how it is possible to have only gained about 50 hp over stock with all the mods. Just the exhaust and intake should have put me there. On top of that it is putting out less then it had before the heads, cams, and better exhaust.
Jason the first place I'd look (But it involves removing the front timing and valve covers) is to see if the Cams were degreed properly, it's Essential on this type of motor! Also are you datalogging and monitoring all necessary parameters on the Dyno like fuel rail pressure,short and long term trim, and the pumps duty cycle, MAF counts and Voltage etc..
And I'd try richening up the fuel mixture to yield a 12.5-12.8 Air Fuel and bump the spark advance to 28, ALSO did you install Knock Sensors on this motor? If so turn them OFF in the tune!
I really dont want to get the shop to pull timing cover again to check if they are degreed correctly. I have a lot of faith in my guys there, they jknow what they are doing. They dont do allot of 4V mustangs but they are anal about everything. Is there anyway to tell if the cams aren't degreed correctly without pulling the covers.
We didn't install any knock sensors. Did the 2001 Cobra come with them stock?
They are kind of new to the tuning of a 4V too. So what kind of parameters are we looking for? The guys had a scanner connected to the computer to make sure everything looked good. If it was knocking they would have seen it, IF it has knock sensors.
I have only tuned 3rd gen Camaros and Firebirds, so I dont know anything about this kind of motor. We will try doing what you suggested nest week.
Also to update the car is throwing a BANK 1 LEAN code. They said that means they need to work on long term trim fueling.
I will see if they did any dataloging.
I really appreciate the suggestions. I see you built yours up too. What kind of power is yours making?
I'm in No Way dogging your engine builders Jason but to properly degree the cams on this motor the right tools need to be used.
I'm sure your fine but I've seen this issue cost an easy 20 HP!
Yes the 99 and 01 Cobras came stock with Knocks, the 03-04's didn't!
And the guy had a scanner hooked up to the computer?
I thought you said Sniper software was used? So are you actually running a Custom tune? Is it burned onto your ECU or is it transfered through the OBD port? I import mine from laptop to my hand held Predator and load it in through the OBD.And one statement you said spoke VOLUMES, they "DON'T" have much experience tuning 4V's! GET a reputable Tuner that knows this motor!
Just curious what type of block are you running? Teksid, WAP 03-04 Iron?
And I actually take back my suggestion to go with 28 degrees of spark advance, I just noticed your running 11:1 compression, don't EVER put 87 in her! run 93 minumum with 24-25 degrees!
Does that lean code only show up when scanning for them or do you have a "Check engine" lite coming on too? Sounds like a bad O2 sensor! Ask the Sniper guy what the fuel pressure was at WOT as well as the duty cycle percentage, if your using 24lb injectors you might have to jump to 30's with the Stroker! Running a stock pump too?
My car does OK, haha! It's not done yet, my dyno numbers aren't huge cause the past 3.5 months have been Scorching HOT in FLA. I'm also running 9.5:1 Pistons with the Vortech build.
In July it put down 287 RWHP/292 TORQ with IAT temps over 100 degrees and hardly ANY oxygen in the air, the humidity was over 70% at 2pm that day. Plus a had a conservative tune in there with only 20 Degrees of timing and the knock sensors were going off pulling even more. I have a revised Custom tune in now but it's too hot to run on my friends Dyno, I'm gonna hold off til winter when I install the supercharger! As it's sitting now with cool weather conditions it'll probaly do 310/305, but looking for 460+ with the T-Trim!
To update info. I went to the dragstrip last night. Car ran 9.03@ 78.69mph with quite a bit of tire spin. The funny thing was a 99 Cobra with exhaust, CAI, and tune was running the same times as me, with the sametire spinning problem. That time corressponds to a 14 flat 1/4 mile time. LMAO. I was launching at 3500 slipping the clutch trying to get traction. Shifted at 6800 with wheel hop and tire spin going into second.
Regarding the dataloging, they ran a dataloger on it after they put the tune in to make sure timing was advancing and all that good stuff
I will ask them about injector duty cycle and stuff later. The Bank 1 Lean is a Check Engine Light. I reset it and it does good for a while then after about 120-150 miles it comes back on.
The block is an early 96-98 block, so it is Teksid. I sold my old block to a guy with a 03 cobra. I still have the stock crank, pistons, and rods. Car had two spin bearings, due to a mysterous loss of 2 qts of oil. Guys said crank can probably just be polished out. So i might keep it and try and install it in another block.
Wouldn't the car run like crap if the cams weren't degreed correctly?
Yeah looks like the injectors are stock and I know the fuel pump is.
Those times honestly are pretty weak Jason, what was the weather conditons? Obviously altitude wasn't a factor being in Tennessee.. And running radials at the dragstrip is not the greatest fun, you wanna be able to launch the car with some authority so I can feel your frustration trying to get traction..
And FYI Don't run drag radials at the track with your IRS, it puts too much stress on the half shafts of the rear end and breakage could occur, a much better choice is a full slick or one with a bias ply sidewall (Mickey T has some choices) their much softer and ripple under hard launch which takes the stress out of the axles! I'm not just grasping at straws here this has been tested with IRS setups!
And replace that banks O2 sensor! You want to check the Fuel Pump duty cycle percent to see how close to maxed out the stocker is!
Yeah I plan on getting slickes eventually. It was pretty warm that night most people where running 3-4 tenths slower then usual.
My car is currently running with 3.73s and 03-04 axles, since the previous owner learned what happens when you use drag radials on a well prepped track.
When I go for a retune, I will check for injector duty cycle and fuel pump cycle. What is max duty cycle these should run? I know with my 89 Trans AM GTA they say dont go over 80% because the likelyhood of failure is to great and so is the cost.
When you run your fuel pump at 100% of it's duty cycle it's not gonna be able to supply the needed fuel rail pressure to the injectors, more volume will be needed with an Aviator or SVT Focus Pump! In normally aspirated form you should still be OK with the stock pump, my most current log shows mine 50% at WOT, with the Max fuel pressure at 68.2.
When you see your fuel pump duty cycle hit 75+% you wanna upgrade the pump or install a Kenne Bell BAP!
Brutal, that 99 is a beast. . . sorry to get off topic And yes, those times are very weak for what you have done bigjay. It's okay though, there are always things that go wrong with a new engine. . . you will get it
I'm thinking he just needs a tuner that knows how to use Sniper Software, There's hidden power not being unleashed.. I know one of the best guys but nobody has asked me for a reference?? And thanks for the props daboyho50, I need to take some new pics I just detailed it!
I would love to know who is the best guy is.
Although I going to give my guys some more time to figure it out. The way I see it nobody can tune a car perfect, the first time around especially if this is the first time with a certain combination. But if they still can't get anymore out of it I will get a second opinion.
Also my current mpg is around 15-16 with a lot of highway driving. Before was 19-20 on same roads.
A good tuner for these 4v's are hard to come by, my first tuners didn't know what they were doing. The third tuner is about 50 miles away, but he is GOOD. I will never use anyone else so long as they are in business. Here's how I found my tuner. . . Look up mustang clubs in your area, join up on their forums introduce yourself, then ask about tuners in your area. There will probably be one that all of them advise. Hope this helps
I will see if I can get one. Does your tuner have a name/location? If you want to keep it a secret that Is cool. I want to see if they will let me do some dataloging too. If I can get that to I will see if I can get a copy of that as well.
Just to update turned out injector was connected properly, it was running on 7 Cyclinders.
Car put down 370rhp and 340tq immediately after ziptieing injector harness to injectors.
I am hopeing to hit 380-85ish with more tuning, then updating to a PSR and a beter CAI and pushing over 400 N/A.
2001 Cobra with built engine low on power 
And yes, those times are very weak for what you have done bigjay. It's okay though, there are always things that go wrong with a new engine. . . you will get it
And thanks for the props daboyho50, I need to take some new pics I just detailed it!
