I just got done isntalling the K&N FIPK, and reset the battery, cleaned the maf sensor, too. I drove the car around and it seemed fine. I came inside the house and did some stuff then went out again, and the car just dies while im in gear or in neutral around 45-50 mph. did it twice. I came home cleaned the iac and reset battery and now it kinda has like a loping idle. It's idle is around 648-678. Is this normal? No check engine light.
hhmm?? Sounds like the mass air counts are off..
It's sensing more airflow but not adapting, resetting the battery should have helped, when I saw your thread title I was gonna say to do that.. I'll think about this and get back to you..
Try this disconnect your MAF plug THEN your positive battery terminal and let them sit like that for about 15 minutes then plug the sensor in then the battery!
Brute, do you want me to disconnect the negative battery terminal too? Also, there is a screen that is attached to the MAFS when you take it off of the stock box, but the K&N insturctions says that it won't be used. Should I try and put it on? Please help.
The stock ECU flash sets idle on your car at 700, I adjust mine up to 750 with the Predator..
You just need to disconnect the postive terminal..
And NO NEED for that screen..
Also make sure there's no unmetered air entering the Throttle body, check all connections and hoses, did you reattach your IAT sensor?
When I first installed the FIPK, I never disconnected the positive terminal just the negative terminal. After I installed the mesh screen I disconnected both terminals. Should I just take the mesh screen off, then?
So do you think that since I didn't disconnect my positive battery terminal when I first installed my FIPK intake that the car's computer was still used to idling with the stock airbox on and not used to the new intake? What does disconnecting the positive terminal do? What happens if you just disconnect the negative terminal and not the positive if you are installing a new MAFS, IAC, IAT, etc.?
Also, about that mesh screen, why do you say not to use it? What exactly is that for, bro?
Was the problem being that I didn't disconnect the positive terminal in the first place instead of the mesh screen?
Just taking the negative off is fine enough. You don't have to take both off. If i remember right, the screen is just there to help smooth out the incoming air. I always take mine out of my cars.
Did you clock your MAF to the 11 o'clock position?
Also how long did you disconnect it for? I think Ford EEC's take 12-15 mins for the EEC to reset. Make sure there is no vacuum leaks and try it all again.
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1995 Mustang GT-Heavily Modded-Sold 2003 Ford Lightning-Sold 1997 Saleen-5.4 conversion-Sold 2005 Mustang GT-Torch Red-Sold 2003 Mustang Cobra-Oxford White 2003 4Runner V8 Sport Edition 4X4
My mafs is at the 12 o'clock position I believe. (right on top, horiziontal) I think the reason my car was dying after I'd take it up to 3-4 K then put the car in neutral and just coast is because the MAFS reading was off. Maybe the amount of air coming in was too much? I disconnected the negative terminal it for as long as the FIPK install took. Like what, 30-45 minutes? I decided to disconnect both terminals and put the screen on and the car doesn't stall out when I get on it and then I coast. It's so weird because the rmps used to want to dip and cause the car to stall out as im coasting past 50mph.
Is the problem fixed? I was going to say from what i've read after you reset the ECU (disconnect the neg. terminal only for about 5 min). You should start the car and let it idle to normal operating temp. Then drive normal for a couple of miles. I usually pull of a couple WOT runs after that. Also I would leave the screen in like 2oo5GT said it smooths out the air charge and the flow gain from removing it is nill. Also it protects the MAF in the off chance you suck in large debris. I would also suggest cleaning the MAF with MAF specific cleaner.
I thought the problem was fixed on Monday when I disconnected both - and + terminals for more than 30 mintues and took off the mesh screen and redid a clean professional looking install of the K&N intake. I also cleaned the MAFS down with some CRC MAFS cleaner. I put both terminals back onto the battery and started the car up and let it idle for more than one minute waiting for it to reach normal operating termperature with all of the accessories off. Then I literally drove the car around the city for more than an hour; more than 32 miles. The car seemed fine, so I was happy and believed that my old 96 Cobra was running healthy.
Yesterday, I got a new IAC in the mail from rockauto. Knowing that 4.6's like to have IAC problems. (Since my 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis' had to be replaced.) I went ahead and did some preventive maintenance and bought one from rockauto.com. However, my Cobra was not showing any signs of hard starts or cut offs from starting, I still decided to replace the IAC with a new one. I did this without disconnecting the - or + terminals on the battery. I started the car up and like always it idles like a kitten.
Well last night, I decided I wanted to go out and have some "fun". I was at a dead idle, engine fully warmed up and then I started to go in first gear, I pulled the car to about 6K rpms, then quickly shifted from 1st to 2nd gear doing WOT again in 2nd pulling the car upt to about 6K rpms again in 2nd gear, I then quickly shifted from 2nd to third gear. The speddlimit for the road that I was on was 65mph. I was doing about 68-69 mph, so I wanted to slow down. Not thinking that my car would just shut off on me I put the car in neutral and just started coasting up to the stop sign. I was going approximately 60 mph and my speed was decreasing as my car was in neutral. The rpms were normal ranging from 614-860 rpms. Then, the engine just shuts off... That's the best way I can describe it.
In other words.. Whenever I do WOT on my car and am going 60+ mph and then put the car in neutral it just wants to idle real low and then it shuts off. I have to restart the car to get going again.
I've contacted the Ford dealership and they told me that my car has had new spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel pump, fuel filter, oil change, serpentine belt, transmission fluid and transmission serviced, etc. ALL within the past 12,000 miles of the car.
I've come to three conlcusions... 1. Either the car's rpm of the engine can't keep up with the car's speed of the car while coasting in neutral so it just shuts off. 2. I'm hitting the rev limiter and after I put the car in neutral the engine shuts off. Or 3. I have a really retarded, highly maintained car that doesn't want to work for me because it's having a bad day and all it wants to do is just go home sit outside with the car cover on it and freaking sleep! Again, the car only shuts off wen it is in neutral (coasting) AFTER I do WOT to it. And it doesn't always do this either. (Doesn't always cut off sometimes). It's just random when it does cut off. However I do see the rpms dip really low like in the 300-400 rpm range then it comes back up to normal idling/coasting rpms on occasion.
The car idles (dead stop) at around 614-710 rpms. I am the third owner. The first owner was a 53 year old man. The second owner was a 42 year old man. The car is a 1996 Mystic Cobra, literally ALL stock. And yes this car was BONE stock. The only thing now is a goodyear gatorback belt, and K&N FIPK intake. Any advice, comments, help would be greatly appreciated. I'm going to keep asking until I figure this bad boy out. The car mechanically, checks out fine. I am just so stumped.
Try putting the stock air box on and see if you have the same erratic idle and stalling when you come to a stop. All these symptoms started when you installed the K&N Intake right?
It's not when I come to a stop. It's as I'm crusing in neutral around 50 mph. It's seldom. The car idles fine when I'm stopped. I'm thinking that maybe the fan is coming on or something and the car is at such a low rpm since it's in neutral that it cuts off...
Just installed the FIPK. now idle problems. 
Sounds like the mass air counts are off..
