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Unread 12-10-2011   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1996 cobra clutch question

My 96 cobra was just rebuilt had everything brand new put in the car when it comes to the clutch... New flywheel, clutch, cable, and that adjuster kit.... I was told with the fire wall adjuster i should have a space between the cable and the adjuster about the size of a cedit card... is that correct? bc when i had it set there the clutch would make a chatter sound ... i had my car on jack stand and noticed that the piece that comes out of the tranny that the cable is connected to ( sorry dont know the part name) i could move it up and down... is this play ok in that? Im just stressing out bc i dont wanna ruin the clutch. Oh and i have about 1k miles on it and broke it in correctly. Sorry if it doesnt make sense lol Please help guys!!!! thanks
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1996 SVT Cobra Lazer Red - #26 - 7496
Final Production Date - 8/14/95
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Unread 12-10-2011   #2 (permalink)
Jozsefsz
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Yes, you should have a slight gap. And this will quite often cause "chirping" (or rattling from the dust cover) as the clutch fork bounces back & forth across the gap you've left. People will often needlessly replace throwout bearings when this happens. You correctly diagnosed that the clutch mechanism does not have any way to keep the throwout bearing / fork from moving back against the pressure plate fingers, causing the chirp, when you've left the gap.

So what did Ford do with the stock adjuster mechanism? They left the throwout bearing in constant, slight pre-load with the pressure plate fingers. This will get rid of the chirping, but will make your throwout bearing last about 40k if you're lucky.

Your options are to do what Ford did (remove the gap and tighten it up to the pressure plate), or to add a spring to keep the clutch fork / throwout bearing away from the pressure plate to get rid of the chirping. In my opinion, the kit below (should work with any T5) should be shipped with every aftermarket quadrant setup. A very cheap and effective way to get rid of the chirp (and the "dead spot" on top of the clutch pedal movement which lets it bounce when you hit bumps). I've had one for about 2 years now, and it works perfectly. To me, it's cheap insurance that my throwout bearing won't wear out much more quickly than the clutch, as I'm not a big fan of dropping transmissions.

LDC Chicago Clutch Freeplay Correction Kit [LDC-FREEPLAY] : Lethal Performance, Performance parts for Ford Mustangs
 
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Unread 12-10-2011   #3 (permalink)
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Very interesting and informative...I have a high performance clutch and was curious what caused the rattle.
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Unread 12-10-2011   #4 (permalink)
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Great information Jozsefsz. I really appreciate all of that. I will probably order one of those correction kits and drop the tranny over winter while the car sits... I guess ill leave the gap this way i dont ruin the throw out berring. Thank you very much
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Unread 12-11-2011   #5 (permalink)
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You're very welcomed! Just a note, there's no need to drop the transmission to install the spring kit. It goes on in about 10 minutes, all you have to do is remove the dust-cover and the clutch cable.
 
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Unread 12-12-2011   #6 (permalink)
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Ok awsome!! I will be ordering one after the holidays and let you know how it goes !! Thanks again
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Unread 12-12-2011   #7 (permalink)
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Where exactly does this mount i have myself all screwed up lol
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Unread 12-12-2011   #8 (permalink)
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Here you go:

LDC Chicago Clutch Freeplay Correction Kit - SoCalTerminators.com Forums
 
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