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Old 04-04-2008   #1 (permalink)
Tuflehundon is offline Made Member

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Default what do I need to do to get 250rwhp out of my 2000 Mustang V6 vert?

That seems to be a good number to me. I was wondering what all I could do to see that kind of power. I have a few mods planned already, like CAI, dual exsaust, and a tuner. What else could I do to get that kind of power.

Keep in mind that the previous owner did some suspension work already. He did new shocks, springs, tower braces, and subframe connectors. He was planing for this to be a project car, and his wife bought him a new GT500 for Christmas. And yes, I asked if his wife had a sister, no she didn't.
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Old 04-04-2008   #2 (permalink)
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That seems to be a good number to me. I was wondering what all I could do to see that kind of power. I have a few mods planned already, like CAI, dual exsaust, and a tuner. What else could I do to get that kind of power.

Keep in mind that the previous owner did some suspension work already. He did new shocks, springs, tower braces, and subframe connectors. He was planing for this to be a project car, and his wife bought him a new GT500 for Christmas. And yes, I asked if his wife had a sister, no she didn't.
250 WHP is approximately 315 hp at the crank. It's doable NA but it will take a lot of work and won't be very streetable (for most people - I know a bunch of people are going to argue with me)- best bet to get there with a minimum of invasive surgery is forced induction.
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Old 04-04-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Supercharger
Turbocharger
Nitrous Oxide
Motor [4.2L crank , ported H/I, Cam, exhaust, ]]


And 250 hp is VERY streetable! What are you thinking about sir!
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Old 04-04-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 232Stang View Post
Supercharger
Turbocharger
Nitrous Oxide
Motor [4.2L crank , ported H/I, Cam, exhaust, ]]


And 250 hp is VERY streetable! What are you thinking about sir!
agreed, what numbers are you pushing 232?

I will be pushing over 300 to the wheels in a month or so
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2001 vert:

Suspension: Eibach Pro kit, Tokico Blue Shocks and Struts, MM CC Plates, LCA, rear sway bar

Performance: Mass Air System, True Dual exhaust, intake spacer, built jmodded tranny

Mods currently either sitting at home being shipped: Fully ported and polished Heads and intake, 218/224 cam, 4.10 gears with detroit locker, HID kit and Zex kit
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Old 04-04-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Ok I didn't realize that there would be that much of a difference between hp@crank & rwhp.

I just looked up the stock #'s for my year. It said that the V6 has 190hp and the GT has 260hp.

So lets make that the new number, what would I have to do to get 260HP (or a little more) @ the crank? As I said before, my plans so far are a CAI, dual exsaust, and a tuner.

Any advice would help, Thanks.
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Old 04-04-2008   #6 (permalink)
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You can always bottle feed it. You can also drop some weight to make your times faster.....
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Old 04-04-2008   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 232Stang View Post
Supercharger
Turbocharger
Nitrous Oxide
Motor [4.2L crank , ported H/I, Cam, exhaust, ]]


And 250 hp is VERY streetable! What are you thinking about sir!
I knew someone would jump in.

250 crank or wheel hp?

Out of an NA engine, it's going to be very peaky at 300 hp. my 68 302 made 325 whp, and it was on the edge of streetability as I define it. My 390 Cougar was not streetable.

Streetability (for me) is the point at which you'd think twice about giving to keys to your 16 year old sister, mom, or a prospective buyer.

Forced induction is the easiest was to keep it streetable. N2O, SC, or Turbo .. .
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Old 04-04-2008   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kscoyote View Post
I knew someone would jump in.

250 crank or wheel hp?

Out of an NA engine, it's going to be very peaky at 300 hp. my 68 302 made 325 whp, and it was on the edge of streetability as I define it. My 390 Cougar was not streetable.

Streetability (for me) is the point at which you'd think twice about giving to keys to your 16 year old sister, mom, or a prospective buyer.

Forced induction is the easiest was to keep it streetable. N2O, SC, or Turbo .. .
What's up buddy? I've gone in a different direction with my '01 for the time being......
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Old 04-04-2008   #9 (permalink)
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I agree with you about the streetability issue. Everyone seems to think that having an N/A V6 with 250-300rwhp is going to be some awesome and fun car to drive. I don't think it would be anywhere near fun to drive. By that time you are going to have a very highly ported set of heads and intake along with a fairly aggressive cam and a tune that is not going to make dd fun at all in the car. It might make ok power but it won't be a fun car to drive around unless you are racing it often.
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Old 04-04-2008   #10 (permalink)
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What's up buddy? I've gone in a different direction with my '01 for the time being......

Everything and nothing!

Which direction are you going, Shiner?
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Old 04-04-2008   #11 (permalink)
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As I said before, I didn't realize there was so much differance between rwhp & hp@crank.
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Old 04-04-2008   #12 (permalink)
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The general rule is if it is an auto you have a 15-18% drivetrain loss and if it is a manual then a 12-15% drivetrain loss. Every car differs with the amount of hp it makes and the amount of drivetrain loss it suffers though.

So if you have an auto just take roughly 15-18% of the crank hp away and that is roughly what you would have at the rear wheels. Same for the manual.

Their are a few ways of getting that percentage to go down such as Aluminum flywheel and driveshaft and UDP's and a few other little things but that is the general rule.
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Old 04-04-2008   #13 (permalink)
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Everything and nothing!

Which direction are you going, Shiner?
I threw a 75 shot on the '01. I'm going to see how long it lasts. Delk tuned it for me, so I know it's safe. Been blowing away alot of cars at the track with it. There's some videos somewhere in here on it. It's launching well on DR's with the 7.5 and FR t-lock. Not sure how much longer they will last, but whatever. GTEATER's car is done-641rwhp on his setup. He didn't want to push it further at this time because he just wants it home, but it can go much, much higher. Matt at Delk is at 667rwhp.

Here is a picture of my launches: PhotoReflect - Indie Images
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Old 04-04-2008   #14 (permalink)
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The general rule is if it is an auto you have a 15-18% drivetrain loss and if it is a manual then a 12-15% drivetrain loss. Every car differs with the amount of hp it makes and the amount of drivetrain loss it suffers though.

So if you have an auto just take roughly 15-18% of the crank hp away and that is roughly what you would have at the rear wheels. Same for the manual.

Their are a few ways of getting that percentage to go down such as Aluminum flywheel and driveshaft and UDP's and a few other little things but that is the general rule.
the 3.8L's have a LOT of rotational mass, add 5% to your estimates, from what I've generally seen.

Cheap wheels/tires & heavy flywheel, & crank designed for minivan duty really drag it down . . .
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Old 04-04-2008   #15 (permalink)
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I apprechiate the replies, but no one has answered the question of what could I do to get 250 or 260hp at the crank?
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