Hey guys I want to lower my car without caster camber plates and still be able to align it perfect. I paid a pretty penny for my tires so I want them to last. I have picked out these:
I have Pro-Kits on my V6 and I need plates, (hopefully soon). Everything else will align to specs, toe, caster, but the camber will not be able to fully go out.
Mine is out of spec by .1 degree, but they are at the very far end of the allowed range, and it pretty much made the inside of my front tires bald.
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Jesse Berger 90 LX, Previous 4 cyl. (Decommissioned, 351W on the way)
H/C/I+Bolt Ons
Best ET: 12.54@106 mph 2001 V6 5 Speed Daily Driver Windstar Intake, Dual Exhuast, CAI, Headers
Best ET: 15.6@88 mph (stock trim)
Aww I was hoping I would not need them for the pro. I guess I will get the springs and get it aligned then wait until I can do the plates. How hard are the plates to install? Like could I do them with little skill?
They aren't hard to install, but it does involve some common ability.
Basically you support the a-arm with a jack, unbolt the strut from the top, remove all the factory plates, and install the new plates, then put it all back in.
I can't speak for all c/c plates, but the maximum ones require you to drill a couple holes in the tower, and remove some stuff from your existing struts. You can get detailed info right off their site, they have the instructions available in pdf form.
The Maximum Motorsports ones are one of the best on the market, speaking of, I just located a set for $100, so I will be installing them in a couple weeks.
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Jesse Berger 90 LX, Previous 4 cyl. (Decommissioned, 351W on the way)
H/C/I+Bolt Ons
Best ET: 12.54@106 mph 2001 V6 5 Speed Daily Driver Windstar Intake, Dual Exhuast, CAI, Headers
Best ET: 15.6@88 mph (stock trim)
I looked the install up and its not difficult except for the fact that I need an impact gun. I guess I'll buy the pro kit and install it, then get an alignment and save up for the plates..
You should be able to just get a large wrench on it to break teh strut nut loose. May take some work to get it there, but you should be able to. I'll be doing mine Thursday or Friday, so I'll let you know by then if you don't get it before that.
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Jesse Berger 90 LX, Previous 4 cyl. (Decommissioned, 351W on the way)
H/C/I+Bolt Ons
Best ET: 12.54@106 mph 2001 V6 5 Speed Daily Driver Windstar Intake, Dual Exhuast, CAI, Headers
Best ET: 15.6@88 mph (stock trim)
^That is the rule of thumb yes. But I think that whenever you lower the car you should get the c/c plates as well as shocks/struts to go along with it. If you can not afford to do it all the first time then you should save up and do it all at once. The car is going to ride like **** since it will be lowered on the stock shocks/struts. The stockers are not made for lowering springs at all...
Have fun getting the nut off of the strut... It took me almost an hour and half and some intense cussing to get it off the first one. lol The second one went came easy once I figured out what to do. The c/c plates are fairly easy to install, Pop the hood and just look at the towers, it should be fairly easy to see what needs to go where. lol I am not sure about the MM but the Steeda kit came with overly detailed instructions for the installation.
I like Steeda more. MM is a better company but they charge twice as much too. I consider the top handling companies to be Griggs, MM and then Steeda. I think that Griggs stuff is ridiculously good and expensive but MM is only slightly better than Steeda but they charge so much more than Steeda. I also like the more low key look of Steeda's stuff rather than MM. lol Not saying anything bad about any of the companies I just think that MM and Griggs overcharge for their items.
Lowering on a budget need help 
