It's more than likely your throwout bearing if it's making noise.
1.) does the noise go away when you push the clutch pedal in? (does is make noise at idle)
2.) is your clutch slipping at all
3.) how many miles are on your car
4.) How do you usually drive your car (are you hard with your shifts?)
I have a lot of experience with this lol so i'll try to answer your questions as best as i can
__________________
Show: Anthracite Bullitt rims, OE smoked headlights, black bumper inserts, chin spoiler, eibach pro-kit lowering springs, Optima Red Top, side scoops, Mach 1 grill delete, Black LED third brake light, shorty antenna, chrome Gauge Bezels, and window scoops.
Go: Steeda Tri-Ax Short Shifter, 3.73's and FRPP traction lock, BBK CAI, Dual Flowmaster Super 44's with H-pipe and chrome 3" angle cut tips
ok, all i was doing is driving along and all of a sudden a loud squeeling noise, it goes away sometimes but then it comes back worst, should i replace the cluch will im down there??
Show: Anthracite Bullitt rims, OE smoked headlights, black bumper inserts, chin spoiler, eibach pro-kit lowering springs, Optima Red Top, side scoops, Mach 1 grill delete, Black LED third brake light, shorty antenna, chrome Gauge Bezels, and window scoops.
Go: Steeda Tri-Ax Short Shifter, 3.73's and FRPP traction lock, BBK CAI, Dual Flowmaster Super 44's with H-pipe and chrome 3" angle cut tips
thank u sooo much, looks like ill be buying a kit tommorw and doing it, looks pretty easy, so ill jsut get a whole clutch kit or should i take it out and inspect it, i dk if its ever been replaced, car has 92xxxmiles on it
Um i see you live out here in AZ? I live in avondale, so if you need any help with it i'd be more than happy to help you. But a little advice, DO NOT get the Duralast clutch kit from autozone. I got that for my car cause i really needed a new kit (as you can tell from the pics) and only after 1000 miles my TOB is going out again...My car had 70,000 on it when i changed mine so yeah 92,000 miles seems like a good time to change it
__________________
Show: Anthracite Bullitt rims, OE smoked headlights, black bumper inserts, chin spoiler, eibach pro-kit lowering springs, Optima Red Top, side scoops, Mach 1 grill delete, Black LED third brake light, shorty antenna, chrome Gauge Bezels, and window scoops.
Go: Steeda Tri-Ax Short Shifter, 3.73's and FRPP traction lock, BBK CAI, Dual Flowmaster Super 44's with H-pipe and chrome 3" angle cut tips
could and would u really help??? would u charge me?? im only 21 and im laid off right now, i need my car, im lloking at getting it from carquest or tricity??? what u think??
Yes i will really help lol. I'm a pretty busy guy and i work the night shift 12 a.m to 7 a.m so i sleep during the day lol. I would not charge you either. What kind of tools do you have? You will need 3 looong extensions and a swivel head adapter. the top 2 mounts in the bell housing are a bit*h
__________________
Show: Anthracite Bullitt rims, OE smoked headlights, black bumper inserts, chin spoiler, eibach pro-kit lowering springs, Optima Red Top, side scoops, Mach 1 grill delete, Black LED third brake light, shorty antenna, chrome Gauge Bezels, and window scoops.
Go: Steeda Tri-Ax Short Shifter, 3.73's and FRPP traction lock, BBK CAI, Dual Flowmaster Super 44's with H-pipe and chrome 3" angle cut tips
my gramps has everything i need im pretty sure, i am using his hydralic lift, so y 3 extentions cant i just use 1 really long one?? how long u think i need cal or text me 4802921163 i really want 2 do it 2morrow but it can wait
yeah i guess you could use a really long one if you have it, i had to use 3 lol. the job took my friend and i a little over 4 hours cause i had a cast on my hand so i could only work 1 handed lol. Is your car automatic or manual
__________________
Show: Anthracite Bullitt rims, OE smoked headlights, black bumper inserts, chin spoiler, eibach pro-kit lowering springs, Optima Red Top, side scoops, Mach 1 grill delete, Black LED third brake light, shorty antenna, chrome Gauge Bezels, and window scoops.
Go: Steeda Tri-Ax Short Shifter, 3.73's and FRPP traction lock, BBK CAI, Dual Flowmaster Super 44's with H-pipe and chrome 3" angle cut tips
oh yeah duhhhhh. haha sorry grave shift throws my mind off a little. i'll PM you with my number
__________________
Show: Anthracite Bullitt rims, OE smoked headlights, black bumper inserts, chin spoiler, eibach pro-kit lowering springs, Optima Red Top, side scoops, Mach 1 grill delete, Black LED third brake light, shorty antenna, chrome Gauge Bezels, and window scoops.
Go: Steeda Tri-Ax Short Shifter, 3.73's and FRPP traction lock, BBK CAI, Dual Flowmaster Super 44's with H-pipe and chrome 3" angle cut tips
As far as being able to help, idk when i can. I'm on a strict profile until April 30th for my hand, and the military is sending me to Florida in may for a couple of weeks :/
__________________
Show: Anthracite Bullitt rims, OE smoked headlights, black bumper inserts, chin spoiler, eibach pro-kit lowering springs, Optima Red Top, side scoops, Mach 1 grill delete, Black LED third brake light, shorty antenna, chrome Gauge Bezels, and window scoops.
Go: Steeda Tri-Ax Short Shifter, 3.73's and FRPP traction lock, BBK CAI, Dual Flowmaster Super 44's with H-pipe and chrome 3" angle cut tips
thank u sooo much, looks like ill be buying a kit tommorw and doing it, looks pretty easy, so ill jsut get a whole clutch kit or should i take it out and inspect it, i dk if its ever been replaced, car has 92xxxmiles on it
make sure you get a pilot bearing and rear main seal along with the throwout bearing in your new clutch kit.
you'll need a torque wrench, some caliper grease, and a slide hammer (or pilot bearing puller). also a long long extension a little longer than the actual transmission.
other than that just simple hand tools such as a ratchet and swivel sockets ( i believe the bellhousing bolts are 15mm's) , a prybar to release the clutch cable, and a brass drift punch to install the rear main seal (a 7mm tip is a good size).
bellhousing bolts are torqued down to 38 ft.lbs, pressure plate is torqued down to 28 ft. lbs, and the flywheel is torqued down to 80 ft. lbs.
are you replacing your flywheel or resurfacing it?
a trans jack would be your best friend when doing this, but if you have help, you may be able to wrestle the transmission out without one.
once you remove the transmission cross-member, you can lower the tranny down a little which will pull the engine down some, then you'll have room to get at the 2 top bellhousing bolts which really do suck (as previously mentioned).
a little tip i use; once you get the transmission back into place, take a 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet and spin the crankshaft clockwise and make sure the output shaft on the transmission spins when you do that. its a good way to make sure the splines are lined up before you torque everything down.