if you plan on going F/I then go for the 8.8, otherwise a 7.5 is perfectly fine for an N/A v6 stang
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2007 Satin silver 4.0-"Sadie"- Dual Pypes Violators, JLT CAI and 93 bama race tune, motive 4.10 gears and FRPP T Lok BEST E.T.- 14.485 AT 94.1
1985 Regatta Blue 'vert 5.0 LX-"Sally" 87 5.0 motor, Holley 600 4bbl carb, edelbrock high rise intake, MSD ignition, 1.7 Roller Rockers, underdrive pulleys, A/C and smog delete,BBK O/R H-pipe, flowmaster American thunders. transformed from a 3.8 to a 5.0!
I have seen/read of the 7.5" holding 300HP no problem with a good LSD like hte Detroit Locker or the Auburn. Add a girdle and I have seen/read people with forced induction holding 400HP+ with the 7.5". It is not nearly as fragile as you are making it out 232-K7.
I would not personally waste my money on the Ford LSD differential, but any of the better units should hold you up to 350RWHP as long as you don't do high RPM launches every chance you get.
It is all up hte the $$$ end of it. If you can get an affordable 8.8" that is in great condition then it is usually worth it. If you get a unit that is in bad condition and you need to rebuild it then you are gonna spend double. I'd say that for 90%+ of us, a built 7.5" is plenty capable and will have new parts into it compared to a used unknown 8.8". I know in Canada you cannot find a used 8.8" for a reasonable price so my only choice is to build my 7.5" to be as strong as possible.
^ first let me just point out he is not in canada...
also, im not trying to say he's gonna snap it like a pencil as soon as he hits 300rwhp. im merely pointing out that it may or may not hold up, depending on how much he beats it up; which is true.
and if you know for a fact that your going to cross the 300rwhp line, sinking a bunch of money into a 7.5 to make it able to handle power *reliably* rather than swapping in a junkyard 8.8" just does not make very much sense.
besides, if you break it at the track, there goes $100 for the wrecker who has to tow your car home.
I have had both types of rear ends, and they both can snap in a heartbeat given the right conditions. My '01 had a 7.5 with a FRPP t-lock and a girdle. This was a very stout rear end given the abuse it took. I never had a problem with it even when I made nitrous passes back when it had only 267rwhp, and 385rwtq. The rear end girdle does more than you think. End cap flex is where some of the problem lies when under the torque of the motor.
I blew my 8.8 last Fall at the NMRA's with 31 spine axles and a FRPP t-lock. My pin broke, and took out my gears. It was a mess.
Truetrac? They help if you want to spend that much, but there is no guarantee with them either. It is better to get yourself an 8.8 if you are really planning on big power. If you have an auto, it is much easier on your rear end at launching. My Son still has an 8.8 with his stock V6 axles in his turbo car. A 5 speed is a different story. The stress of the initial dump of the clutch can tear out anything. That's why you always see drag racers blow something out in the first 60ft with 5 speeds......
well i think i will build my rear end that is in it then and I have a auto and If i could make the same amount of power your nitrous stang I would be plenty happy thanks for the advice oh and could tell me what you did to get your nitrous mustang at that level?
^ first let me just point out he is not in canada...
Never said he was, was just pointing out my situation.
Anyhow, I do agree that swapping in an 8.8" is great if you plan on drag racing and making substantial power. Otherwise, for most of us, we'll never need the extra strength and building up our 7.5's is just fine.
put in gears and a t lock or swap? 
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and my 1st baby on the way... 
