OK...My stangs head gasket blew. Now I've searched for a how to in the forums but with no luck. Either that or I dont know what to search for. My 2000 V6 is partially disassembled at the moment. I got the intake manifold off but I don't know how to proceed from there. I was taking alot of pictures as I was disassembling. I got a feeling its gonna be a pain remembering where all the wires and vacuum lines go . So if anyone has experience in replacing the V6 head gasket. Some more direction would be appreciated or if anyone can direct me to a link I can study and what to watch out for would be great. THANKS
if you want to buy alldatadiy.com it will help its like 20 bucks but where every thing goes just pay close attetion when you get heads off make shure to clean them well clean the block well where the heads and lower intake seats or else you will have leaks
Hi.
Having done this same job myself a while ago, I would suggest you pick up a Ford shop manual for your year. It has all the information you will need.
Just take your time and keep everything sorted, it will go back together easily.
Once the intake manifold is off, remove the exhaust manifolds, alternator, power steering pump, a/c pump, replace the water pump while. your in there too. Basically everything you can remove to free the heads.
Then remove the valve covers, the rockers, and push rods.
Use a big breaker bar and remove the head bolts, and the heads will come off.
take them to a machine shop to be rebuilt, get a gasket set, and head bolts, clean everything, and reassemble.
I agree with the two guys here. You should have a vacuum hose routing tag on your radiator cover or you can look it up online. As long as a vacuum line is hooked up somewhere on a N/A motor, it is fine. Just make sure no unmetered air gets into the intakes after the MAF. As far as nut and bolts, it will be pretty simple if you marked them as you took them off. The wiring is cake. You just need to figure out the wiring harness. If you look at it, you will notice one side has the coilpack plug, the other goes to your passengers' side. The harness pretty much dictates how far you can stretch it, and the plug pins dictate where it hooks on to. Passenger's side has: TPS, IAC, CPS, and crank sensor along with the 3 injectors for that side. Driver's side has: Coilpack, Oil sensor, Temp sensor, fuel rail pressure sensor, and 3 injectors. Can't remember what else, in particular, but those are the biggies.
Purchase new head bolts!!!!!!!
Good luck, and let us know if you need anything else......
Thanks for the quick respone. I have on order, the complete gasket set. I know only passenger side has a blown gasket. Should I go ahead and replace both? Also, when it comes to removing the AC compressor. Can I just remove it and lay it somewhere or do I need to remove it out completely? I don't want to recharge the AC unless I have to But if its too much of a hastle working around it, my nephew will just have to do without AC for a while until he can get it recharged. I think one of the reason the head gasket blew is because its plugged somewhere. The car hasent got any power the last year (I didnt mind since my nephew is borrowing it for scholl, less power for a teenager is not bad). I think the CAT needs replacing. After removing the intake manifold, I found that there is alot of build up (gunk). What kind of cleaner can I use for this?
i would do both its a ***** doing one getting it all back together and 2 weeks later the other one blow you could be fine you might not i would just do both while its torn apart
Hi.
Yes, do both heads!
The a/c compressor may be moved to the side out of the way, but makes it hard to get at sone stuff. I removed mine, and still have not recharged it...
I generally use lacquer thinner to clean parts.
Hi.
Yes, do both heads!
The a/c compressor may be moved to the side out of the way, but makes it hard to get at sone stuff. I removed mine, and still have not recharged it...
how on earth did you do that? When you unbolt the lines from the compressor all the coolant is released. At least mine did even after i bled the system when removing the compressor
__________________
'97 with built 3.8 from Supersix
Tma turbo kit
448hp @15psi 11.09@124mph
XXXhp @21psi 10.71@125mph
Fastest Single Port V6 Mustang w a Ported Stock Upper Intake
how on earth did you do that? When you unbolt the lines from the compressor all the coolant is released. At least mine did even after i bled the system when removing the compressor
??!
coolant......?
i think you mean r134a... and you really should evacuate the system before disconnecting the 2 a/c lines from the compressor, or you'll probably get it in your face.
trying to replace an a/c compressor without first evacuating the refrigerant is like poking a hole in an aerosol can.
the same goes for the evaporator, accumulator, condenser, and all the a/c lines. these parts all have pressurized refrigerant in them.
i think you mean r134a... and you really should evacuate the system before disconnecting the 2 a/c lines from the compressor, or you'll probably get it in your face.
trying to replace an a/c compressor without first evacuating the refrigerant is like poking a hole in an aerosol can.
the same goes for the evaporator, accumulator, condenser, and all the a/c lines. these parts all have pressurized refrigerant in them.
yup thats what i meant! Yes it goes everywhere!!!!!!
Hey nothing was comin out of the shrader valve
__________________
'97 with built 3.8 from Supersix
Tma turbo kit
448hp @15psi 11.09@124mph
XXXhp @21psi 10.71@125mph
Fastest Single Port V6 Mustang w a Ported Stock Upper Intake