i really dont have a clue on what to do here.... i heard putting a bullit suspension will be great on my car but the price shot way up ... so i found a part out on a mach 1 and wondered if it would be worth a shot to get the shocks springs and struts ... or make my own with steeda springs and Tockio HP shocks and struts... what do you guys think .. i kind of want to try to keep it under 400 and whatdo anti roll bars/ swaybars will they help wiht body roll?
Under $400 for springs, struts, shocks, and bars? lol I don't think so.
I think your wasting your time with take-off parts from Bullits and Mach's, it will probably ride like crap, it won't lower the car. and thats a lot of work for maybe a little improvement in handling.
I would wait and buy what will really make the car handle. Maximum Motorsports has some good packages, from basic to extreme.
Lowering springs/shocks/struts/rear sway bar/Sub-frame Connectors will do it. That is a basic set up that a lot of people do.
If you just want a cheap setup then you could do Ford C springs, Tokico shocks/struts, a GT/Cobra rear sway bar takeoff, and then a set of sub-frame connectors. That will firm up the car quite a bit and take a lot of the body roll out of it. You could also add in some LCA's if you wanted a bit more grip on takeoffs and what not.
For everyday driving I would not spend $1100 on parts. Especially because with that kit all you are buying is the name... I like MM but those starter kits are nothing but namebuying... I prefer Steeda any day in terms of initial money costs. If you were actually going to get into road course racing then going with MM or Griggs would be the best bet but for every day driving I would not do it. The biggest reason would be that I have literally spent half of what that kit costs and my car would outhandle any GT/V6 with that kit on it. lmao
Also, you should not need C/C plates unless you want a perfect alignment. I didn't have them on my car until two years after I put the springs on and I did not notice any extra wearing or anything.
But, you can listen to the people who do not have any suspension work done or knowledge of a Mustang suspension if you want. Especially when they do not own any of the parts they recommend...
But, you can listen to the people who do not have any suspension work done or knowledge of a Mustang suspension if you want. Especially when they do not own any of the parts they recommend...
lmao ...... your right i dont need a race suspension for my dd all i want is a mustang that handles like a mustang not a truck .... thanks for the imput
Also, you should not need C/C plates unless you want a perfect alignment. I didn't have them on my car until two years after I put the springs on and I did not notice any extra wearing or anything.
But, you can listen to the people who do not have any suspension work done or knowledge of a Mustang suspension if you want. Especially when they do not own any of the parts they recommend...
The C/C plates depend on the springs. On my 01, I needed them because the car did not align into spec at all, I don't mean perfect, I mean into any acceptable range. So that is up in the air.
I'm not sure who your last comment was directed to, however I have Maximum Motrsport C/C plates on my 01, as well as their full torque arm and panhard bar set-up on my fox, I think I have a little experience with them and their products on two street driven Mustangs.
IMO you get what you pay for. If Bilsteins are race parts, then why do they come factory on Lightnings, S/C'd Cobras, some Chevy and Toyota trucks?
If all you want is to lower the car, then some $200 Eibachs will get it done, but don't expect it to handle that much better.
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Jesse Berger 90 LX, Previous 4 cyl. (Decommissioned, 351W on the way)
H/C/I+Bolt Ons
Best ET: 12.54@106 mph 2001 V6 5 Speed Daily Driver Windstar Intake, Dual Exhuast, CAI, Headers
Best ET: 15.6@88 mph (stock trim)
Under $400 for springs, struts, shocks, and bars? lol I don't think so.
I think your wasting your time with take-off parts from Bullits and Mach's, it will probably ride like crap, it won't lower the car. and thats a lot of work for maybe a little improvement in handling.
I would wait and buy what will really make the car handle. Maximum Motorsports has some good packages, from basic to extreme.
Do you realize that the tokico shocks and struts off a Mach are the same specs as the tokico blues? I got mine with 10k for $150 and they work and ride great. The shocks and struts off a cobra are Bilstein and would be a great upgrade from out stockers.
If your looking for parts that would be an upgrade, cost affective, and for a DD then I don't see how puchasing used shocks/struts from a Mach are a wast. Now the springs won't really drop it, but you can pick up lowering springs for a couple hundred dollars. A rear sway bar can be bought for about $40 used. Sub fram connectors would help too and are pretty cheap. That kit is expensive as hell. See if you need cc plates before you buy em.
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2001 True Blue Mustang V6:
MAC CAI, True Dual Flow 40's w/ MAC Long Tube Headers and turn downs right before the bumper, 15% tint, Eibach pro kit, Tokico HPs, Detroit Tru Trac, FRPP 3.73s, Diablo Predator w/ custom tuned by Mike, v3 vap windstar kit. Waiting to be installed: Steeda short throw shifter.
The C/C plates depend on the springs. On my 01, I needed them because the car did not align into spec at all, I don't mean perfect, I mean into any acceptable range. So that is up in the air.
I'm not sure who your last comment was directed to, however I have Maximum Motrsport C/C plates on my 01, as well as their full torque arm and panhard bar set-up on my fox, I think I have a little experience with them and their products on two street driven Mustangs.
IMO you get what you pay for. If Bilsteins are race parts, then why do they come factory on Lightnings, S/C'd Cobras, some Chevy and Toyota trucks?
If all you want is to lower the car, then some $200 Eibachs will get it done, but don't expect it to handle that much better.
My last part was aimed at no one in particular. I just know that their are some people who like to recommend parts when they have no idea what they do or whether they are quality or not, they just recommend them based off of what other people say about them.
The one guy is right about the Tokico's off of a Mach 1 being the same spec. I have Mach 1 spec Tokico's and I love them, not too stiff but a huge improvement over the stock pieces.
I am not sure if you were responding to me about the Bilsteins? I do not remember saying anything about them? I do not particularly like them but I know a lot of people who do and will swear by them.
I am just saying that the guy could spend 600-700 in parts and install them all himself and be more than happy with the result. I know I was at first and I care a lot more about suspension than most people do.
i know the mach 1 springs will only lower my .75" anyway ... thats fine with me i wasnt plannig on droping it more than one anyway so ... are the mach 1 spring s any stiffer.. if i cant get the shocks struts and springs plus sway bar for 200 i think i would call it good becuase im just trying to get rid of body roll when i turn .... and i heard sub frame connectros are useless on our cars
The one guy is right about the Tokico's off of a Mach 1 being the same spec. I have Mach 1 spec Tokico's and I love them, not too stiff but a huge improvement over the stock pieces.
2001 True Blue Mustang V6:
MAC CAI, True Dual Flow 40's w/ MAC Long Tube Headers and turn downs right before the bumper, 15% tint, Eibach pro kit, Tokico HPs, Detroit Tru Trac, FRPP 3.73s, Diablo Predator w/ custom tuned by Mike, v3 vap windstar kit. Waiting to be installed: Steeda short throw shifter.
suspenion what should i do 
Especially when they do not own any of the parts they recommend...
