What Performance Upgrades Can I Do to a High Mileage 2001 V6 Mustang?
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What Performance Upgrades Can I Do to a High Mileage 2001 V6 Mustang?
I have a 2001 v6 mustang with close to 100000 miles on it, im trying to convince my parents to let me start putting stuff in it but since my knowledge of cars is awful I basically have no clue what to do. I do know im limited with what I can do because of having a v6. I'm just wondering where i should start or if i should just ditch the whole idea because its not worth it
I'd say if you just want alittle more power. Go with Intake gears tuner and exhaust. Though I'd start with an intake since it is simple to do and is good for getting your feet wet in understanding if you want to mess with the car alot.
Go:Pypes mufflers, Custom H-pipe, Fidanza stage 2 clutch,SCT Tuner, American Muscle CAI, BBK 65mm TB, MotoBlue 42% Underdrive Pulley, 17/10.5 (315s) Black Cobras, Strut Tower Brace, Steeda Tri-ax Shifter With Pistol Grip Show:Mach 1 Chin Spoiler, Shorty Antenna, Sequential Turn signals, Bullet Pedal Set, Red Bumper Insert, Black Mach 1 Aluminum Louvers, Hood Pins
Beats:Pioneer HU, Alpine 6X9's Type R's(F/R)
UPS: Richmond 3.73 and Differential Cover.
Soon: Rear end rebuild kit and T-lok
go to americanmuscle.com and get the 75$ cold air intake its a good place to start and not hard to install. It will allow the car to breath better and it comes with a reusable air filter so you don't have to keep buying new ones.
2000 mustang v6, 5 spd
go: american muscle cai, flowmaster 40's dual exhaust,spec stage 1 clutch
Hi rortuso, a cool ABS, larger then stock flow, cold air intake is a good 1st Mod "bang for your buck". Added hp, throttle response, and a few more mpg. Check us out, good numbers, and a forum discount.
Ken Mason, owner
Tunable Induction, LLC
'89 to '10 Mustang CAI's
Made in USA since 2001
These are all great suggestions... but we really need to know your budget. CAI or a Windstar intake would add some power and a nice sound for under $100. An exhaust would give it some growl & more power for a couple hundred bucks. A shift kit (if you have an auto) aka "J-mod" is under $100, but install is complex...
Tuner/Gears/T-lok (also: traction lock, limited-slip differential=LSD, posi-diff, Eaton, etc) are all great additions but cost a bit of dough. :yelpleased:
FLASH = 98 V6, chrome yellow, black & blue accents, 146k daily driver POWER: divorced exhaust with glasspacks; BBK CAI, TB, UDPs; (shift kit in the garage) STYLE: black headlights, black taillights, black grille, black hood pins, black window tint, blue hood & side scoops, blue billet fuel door, interior billet, 12000k HIDs RIMS: XXR 006 black spoke with blue lip; 18x8.5 front, 18x9.5 rear TIRES: BFG KDW/2 245/40R18 front, 275/35R18 rear
Gears do not add any horsepower but increase acceleration at the expense of top end speed. You will go through the gears faster and by doing so get into your power band faster. The general advice is 3.73 gears for 5-speed. 4.10 gears for automatics. Keep in mind the stock gearing is 3.27. Changing gears require the speedometer to be corrected. See T-Lok below for cost.
Exhaust is a key to making more power. Converting the extremely restrictive Y-pipe design to an aftermarket true dual exhaust can add decent power and better sound. The best way to do this is to have a local shop covert your car to true dual exhaust. It can range from $350 to $500 depending on your midpipe and muffler choice. Mufflers are up to you (check out Youtube for lots of samples). Flowmaster 40's or MACs are a good start. Midpipes you have three choices: Divorced (no crossover), H-pipe, and X-pipe. Divorced pipes are nearly identical to an H-pipe in our even firing cars. We technically do not require an crossover to equalize back pressure. The H will give you slightly deeper idle. An X will give you more horsepower (2-3hp more) but will give it a raspier tone.
T-Lok is a limited slip differential. You stock diff is an open one. Essentially only one tire has power going to it. A T-Lok allows both tires to have power under acceleration. You go from a "one wheel wonder" to a "two tire fryer." Gear and a T-Lok are a perfect match and should be installed together. Total cost including new bearings, fluid and install ran me $700.
Intakes do not add too much power but do not cost very much. A cheap CAI from eBay (BOMBZ Racing) or American Muscle will give you a small boost in power and make your exhaust louder. Both cost around $75-80. You engine is a giant air pump. The more air in, the more air out. Another popular mod is to replace the entire upper intake with that of a Windstar van. They are plastic so they get less heat soak. The runners are slightly longer as well. After the conversion you should see decent gains in torque and horsepower. This can be done for as little as $50 if you know where to scrounge parts.
Tunes and tuners are one of the best bangs for your Mustang bucks. They modify your car's computer's programing to make use of higher octane fuels amongst other things. A tune for 91 octane will get you around 10hp more. Hand held tuners also can read trouble codes (check engine lights) and clear them. They can also correct the speedo from new gears and different sized tires. The best part of a tuner is you can change the tune in a matter of minutes. Just plug in and press a few buttons. Most tunes you get via email like the ones on American Muscle are conservative tunes. You will see power gains but, not as much as you would from a custom dyno-tune. Those are where your car gets a special tune after being run on a dyno. These are the best tunes but also the most expensive. Expect to pay $120+ an hour to get a dyno tune. A hand held tuner will cost you around $370. If you purchase one (I suggest an SCT tuner) from American Muscle you get free tunes for life. When ever you change something on your car, be it gears, tire size, exhaust etc, you can have them email you a new tune.
Phew... I hope this helps.
1990 Lincoln Mark VII 5.0 HO 5-Speed Swap- BBK O/R H, Hooker Max Flows dumped, coil conversion
rortuso - the best thing to do is to continue to learn here about engines and mods and your stang. Since you say you aren't incredibly well-versed in mechanics you want to be careful on what mods you do or have done. There is the potential to spend a lot of money and get yourself in pretty deep if you don't work on your car yourself. The biggest question also is to determine how solid the engine is before you start beefing it up. The 3.8's like the 4.6's are very solid engines and with proper care will run for a LONG time. We just want to make sure you have a good platform to start with. Listen to the advice you're getting here and have fun! Get a plan, execute it and enjoy your stang!