Is it normal to get a whining sound from the alternator? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-07-2002 Thread Starter
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alternator whine

So I noticed that there is a whine like sound coming from the alternator area of my car recently and it only has about 6000 miles on it. I took it too the dealer and he said it was just how it is going to sound when it is broken in.... What do you guys think?

Home made CAI, Pro 5.0, Steeda clutch adjuster kit, Raised gass pedal, GT take off's, white gauge face, Aluminum pedals, Aluminum driveshaft, underdrive pully, 03 cobra IRS with bushings and rear steer kit, 10th ann. Cobra rims wrapped in 275 Eagle F1's, 3/8 intake spacer.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-07-2002
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Call BS on that, you should be able to spin(With belt off ofcourse) the pully, and not hear any kind of sqeaking. If the altinator sqeaks, then more than likely the front barring on the alt is failing, or the belt is way too tight, which causes the alt to sqeak, and premature failure of the alt. The pully is attached to a shaft that runs all the way to the back of the alternator, and the alt should spin freely without resistance. It's basically a stator on a rod.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-19-2002
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You need to check the nut holding your alternator pulley on.

When installed my steeda pullies i did not tighten the nut enough. When I would drive i for SURe had this what you call a "whine" and it was caused by the pulley being too lose and vibrating while under operation.

Check that pulley. make sure it is on tight.

Explain more if this is not the case.

Nick P.
1997 Mustang GT
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-20-2002 Thread Starter
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Well it only happens after I drive her hard for a bit, then as soon as I turn off the engine the whine goes away. I will try to check all the nuts and bolt though, thanks for the pointer!

Home made CAI, Pro 5.0, Steeda clutch adjuster kit, Raised gass pedal, GT take off's, white gauge face, Aluminum pedals, Aluminum driveshaft, underdrive pully, 03 cobra IRS with bushings and rear steer kit, 10th ann. Cobra rims wrapped in 275 Eagle F1's, 3/8 intake spacer.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-20-2002
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Quote:
Originally posted by PonyBoy1574
Well it only happens after I drive her hard for a bit, then as soon as I turn off the engine the whine goes away. I will try to check all the nuts and bolt though, thanks for the pointer!

Well if the engine is off......
I'm just picking on you...:p

Last edited by Vortex; 10-20-2002 at 04:10 PM.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-20-2002
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I thonk I know what you are talking about. Is it more like an electronic whine?

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when mine did it, it only did it when i was at higher speeds or RPM's. I am willing to bet it is your alternator pulley that is lose or perhaps lost the nut even to hold it on. It is like a very high pitched whine. And electronic whine is a good description.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-21-2002 Thread Starter
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What I ment to say was as soon as I turn the car off and then turn it back on it goes away for a while, I know I know, My wording was off But I hear it really clear around the 2k area.

So how do I tighten the thing? I just went out and tried it and what do you know.... I couldn't tighten it because the alternator was spinning when I turned the wrench. The car is in gear and and the parking break on.

Home made CAI, Pro 5.0, Steeda clutch adjuster kit, Raised gass pedal, GT take off's, white gauge face, Aluminum pedals, Aluminum driveshaft, underdrive pully, 03 cobra IRS with bushings and rear steer kit, 10th ann. Cobra rims wrapped in 275 Eagle F1's, 3/8 intake spacer.
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well, can you feel any slack or jiggly feeling in the pully? Is it loose in any way can you tell? take the belt off if you need to to find out. If you want to tighten it you are going to need an impact wrench.

Just, play with it, see if it is lose or not. does it slide back and fourth on the spindle of the alternator?

Just a quick thought, isnt your car under warranty? Why dont you take it in and have the mechanics look at it if none of these possibilities are the problem.

Nick P.
1997 Mustang GT

Last edited by 97 MGT; 10-21-2002 at 04:10 AM.
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Well I went in and the manager and I went out for a test run and he said that it was a normal sound for the engine to make and I find it hard to believe that it is normal for there to be a whine sound after I drive her hard for a bit. So I am going to try to figure this one out solo and if I can't I will go back and say hop in I will drive to a differnt guy and see if he thinks it be normal.

Home made CAI, Pro 5.0, Steeda clutch adjuster kit, Raised gass pedal, GT take off's, white gauge face, Aluminum pedals, Aluminum driveshaft, underdrive pully, 03 cobra IRS with bushings and rear steer kit, 10th ann. Cobra rims wrapped in 275 Eagle F1's, 3/8 intake spacer.
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perhaps you can describe the sound in a bit more detail?

Nick P.
1997 Mustang GT
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That service manager is full of well aged crappola. Piston rings require a break-in period, but alternators DO NOT. What I suspect is the problem is that the internal tolerances are to close and as the metal heats up it expands and that one spot where tolerances are close makes a momentary brushing contact and thus the noise. That noise is not normal.

Go back to the dealer, to the salesman you bought it from. Tell him you are not happy with the way the service manager blew you off, and you want this problem fixed. You can, if you want, also tell him that if this is not done you will not do another nickles worth of business with them and will not recommend them to anyone else.

A little example of how things should happen is this. I took my 98 in to have the inner tie ends replaced (they said that was the crunch I heard when I turned the wheel.) About an hour after dropping it off the SM calls and says it wasn't the ends that were bad, it was the rack. Racks should last at least 100k, but Li'l Red only has 40k, so he calls Ford and dickers with them and gets them to cover 60%. Which means I won't pay any more than it would for the ends. I didn't ask him to do this, he did it on his own. That is what the service in Service Manager means!

Dennis
Red "98" Coupe', V6 / Auto, GT take-off duals, BBK CAI, ASP UD pulley, Saleen body kit, FMS "C" springs, Mach 1/Tokico shocks/struts, GT rear sway bar.

Last edited by buckeye43; 10-23-2002 at 01:42 AM.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-18-2002 Thread Starter
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sorry it took forever and a day to get back here but I have been driving around with my radio on and not listening to my engine and when I did it didn't want to do it, which is a good thing. But lately I have noticed it is back. Ok so the exact sound that I am hearing in in the lower RPM range, above 2200 or so it goes away. For the most part it is only there when I have my foot off the gas or just slightly on it. I correct myself on the fact that it is not really a while. It kind of sounds like the trains do in a western except the ticking is far more faster. Still coming from the same place though. I want to say that something is off balance. Hope this helps all you fine mustang driving individuals help little poor me

Home made CAI, Pro 5.0, Steeda clutch adjuster kit, Raised gass pedal, GT take off's, white gauge face, Aluminum pedals, Aluminum driveshaft, underdrive pully, 03 cobra IRS with bushings and rear steer kit, 10th ann. Cobra rims wrapped in 275 Eagle F1's, 3/8 intake spacer.
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ticking? like detonation? people use the marbles in a can metaphor a lot..
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-18-2002 Thread Starter
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yes, That is not exactly what it sounds like but it is very close. Coming from the Alternator area or so. I tried stepping down for 93 octane to the next one down, 87 i think, and that hasn't helped, matter of fact it didn't change a thing.

Home made CAI, Pro 5.0, Steeda clutch adjuster kit, Raised gass pedal, GT take off's, white gauge face, Aluminum pedals, Aluminum driveshaft, underdrive pully, 03 cobra IRS with bushings and rear steer kit, 10th ann. Cobra rims wrapped in 275 Eagle F1's, 3/8 intake spacer.
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