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Old 09-04-2006   #1 (permalink)
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Default opinions please?

whatcha guys think of what i've got done so far, and what should i do next? (out of the list of future mods, or anything you think should be done instead)

cardomain is linked HERE


*edit* btw, it IS a v6, its just i bought it used and the previous owner had it badged as a GT cuz he couldn't afford the insurance on the real deal. i'll be buying a set of "3.8L" badges next check or two.
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Old 09-05-2006   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PancakeOfDoom
whatcha guys think of what i've got done so far, and what should i do next? (out of the list of future mods, or anything you think should be done instead)

cardomain is linked HERE


*edit* btw, it IS a v6, its just i bought it used and the previous owner had it badged as a GT cuz he couldn't afford the insurance on the real deal. i'll be buying a set of "3.8L" badges next check or two.
What's your goal?

I'd pick up a GT rear sway bar, underdrivers, and pick up some subframe connectors.

not sexy, but you build the foundation first.
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Old 09-05-2006   #3 (permalink)
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my goal is mostly torque while adding some good pickup on the highway. short term i just wanna get rid of the throttle lag (sometimes its as long as 5 seconds after full throttle, dirty MAF/injectors or something?). i'd say overall acceleration, but i know to fix that i can just grab some 3.73s. so basically i'm looking for solid HP that won't be causing any future issues (whick is why i'm thinking maybe S/C instead of a turbo?)
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Old 09-05-2006   #4 (permalink)
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Nice job! Looks sharp! Not sure where you should start,
that depends on your cash flow too.
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Old 09-06-2006   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by PancakeOfDoom
my goal is mostly torque while adding some good pickup on the highway. short term i just wanna get rid of the throttle lag (sometimes its as long as 5 seconds after full throttle, dirty MAF/injectors or something?). i'd say overall acceleration, but i know to fix that i can just grab some 3.73s. so basically i'm looking for solid HP that won't be causing any future issues (whick is why i'm thinking maybe S/C instead of a turbo?)
How many miles are on the car?
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Old 09-06-2006   #6 (permalink)
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bout 58k mi. i really like the car so i don't wanna ditch it entirely and wouild like to see how far i could take it, i was told (and from experience w/ a 3.8L ford minivan a few years ago) that it is mostly the o2 sensors and tranny that start failing and not the actual engine, which is why i wanna swap the tranny. i'll be living on campus next year, so i'll hardly be putting miles on it after this year.
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Old 09-06-2006   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by PancakeOfDoom
bout 58k mi. i really like the car so i don't wanna ditch it entirely and wouild like to see how far i could take it, i was told (and from experience w/ a 3.8L ford minivan a few years ago) that it is mostly the o2 sensors and tranny that start failing and not the actual engine, which is why i wanna swap the tranny. i'll be living on campus next year, so i'll hardly be putting miles on it after this year.
Living on campus with access to a car -you may be putting more miles on it than you think -especially if a certain cute co ed need to go shopping (or even better, a raod trip!)


yeah, it's usually one or more O2 sensors. Spray your MAF sensor with computer contact cleaner whenever you change the air filter.

Did you disconnect the battery whenever you did the mods?
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Old 09-06-2006   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kscoyote
Living on campus with access to a car -you may be putting more miles on it than you think -especially if a certain cute co ed need to go shopping (or even better, a raod trip!)


yeah, it's usually one or more O2 sensors. Spray your MAF sensor with computer contact cleaner whenever you change the air filter.

Did you disconnect the battery whenever you did the mods?
anything engine related would be the exhaust and headers, dunno bout completely disconnecting it..., i know i've run the battery down w/ leaving the lights off an such (dunno if that would reset the ECU though), and i know i disconnected it when i was installed my LEDs, but that was just for a minute, prolly less to put on a spade connector.
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Old 09-07-2006   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by PancakeOfDoom
anything engine related would be the exhaust and headers, dunno bout completely disconnecting it..., i know i've run the battery down w/ leaving the lights off an such (dunno if that would reset the ECU though), and i know i disconnected it when i was installed my LEDs, but that was just for a minute, prolly less to put on a spade connector.
Doesn't matter, unless you disconnect the computer (except for underdrivers -which doesn't affect airflow) the computer won't know the components are there and will make the wrong adjustments to the airflow.
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Old 09-07-2006   #10 (permalink)
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thanks ks, i'll get on that after class today.

but i noticed the first time you said battery, and second you said disconnect the computer. does it matter which one?
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Old 09-07-2006   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PancakeOfDoom
thanks ks, i'll get on that after class today.

but i noticed the first time you said battery, and second you said disconnect the computer. does it matter which one?
the computer resets itself after you disconnect the battery for 5 minutes. don't disconnect the computer.
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Old 09-07-2006   #12 (permalink)
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For the cost and trouble you'd have adding a forced induction system to your car, IMO you'd be better off going with some basics like underdrive pulleys, gears, flash tune, and suspension upgrades (as previously mentioned).... but that's me....
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Old 09-08-2006   #13 (permalink)
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For the cost and trouble you'd have adding a forced induction system to your car, IMO you'd be better off going with some basics like underdrive pulleys, gears, flash tune, and suspension upgrades (as previously mentioned).... but that's me....
i would be doing forced induction last. i'd be gettintg UDPs, cam, roller rockers, throttle body, intake P&P, CAI, phenolic spacer, new heads, and a flash tuner (gears somewhere in there too). i'd see where that would land me, and then decide on a power adder, since w/ all the bolt on and engine work i wanna be able to take a gt from my model years, and eventually hang w/ a new a gt (thus the need for a power adder). since i know at bout 300hp you need to replace the rear (i think) i'd try to keep it around 280 and just rely on weight for the rest (gonna start stripping stuff here and there). i dunno, i may just always go the cheap route and skip on the turbo/ SC and go for a 50 shot.
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Old 09-08-2006   #14 (permalink)
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there isn't anything wrong with the juice. it's fun and cheap. once you try it you will be hooked.
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Old 09-08-2006   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PancakeOfDoom
i would be doing forced induction last. i'd be gettintg UDPs, cam, roller rockers, throttle body, intake P&P, CAI, phenolic spacer, new heads, and a flash tuner (gears somewhere in there too). i'd see where that would land me, and then decide on a power adder, since w/ all the bolt on and engine work i wanna be able to take a gt from my model years, and eventually hang w/ a new a gt (thus the need for a power adder). since i know at bout 300hp you need to replace the rear (i think) i'd try to keep it around 280 and just rely on weight for the rest (gonna start stripping stuff here and there). i dunno, i may just always go the cheap route and skip on the turbo/ SC and go for a 50 shot.
If you're going with forced induction, don't do gears, unless it's 3.45 or numerically shorter -you'll be in and out of your powerband before you can put the power to the ground.
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