I have a 2001 V6 mustang and I like V8s better, so I wanted to know what I need and if it's a big hassle to do an engine swap like this, or if i should just tune up my V6?
Forget trying to make it a V-8, if you want a V-8 your definetely better off getting a GT after labor and parts etc. I would recommend keeping the 6 and puttin a few bucks into it. But if you are looking to get the most out of your car and your obviously not afraid of swapping check out supersixmotorsports for their 3.8 long rod or 4.3 long rod stroker crate engines. They are rated at 280-390 NA - 550+ hp not to mention the fact that they can handle a 200 shot or something like 20 psi of boost. So you'd get more power than a V-8 NA not to mention that you have much more room to play around with forced induction and nitrous if you ever come across some money. There exact words are "long rod 4.3 stroker crate engines are the simple bolt in solution to your performance and reliability needs without V-8 engine swap expense and hassle"! Not much else to say about that just my opinion though. But good luck it sounds like you will have your hands full either way.
Forget trying to make it a V-8, if you want a V-8 your definetely better off getting a GT after labor and parts etc. I would recommend keeping the 6 and puttin a few bucks into it. But if you are looking to get the most out of your car and your obviously not afraid of swapping check out supersixmotorsports for their 3.8 long rod or 4.3 long rod stroker crate engines. They are rated at 280-390 NA - 550+ hp not to mention the fact that they can handle a 200 shot or something like 20 psi of boost. So you'd get more power than a V-8 NA not to mention that you have much more room to play around with forced induction and nitrous if you ever come across some money. There exact words are "long rod 4.3 stroker crate engines are the simple bolt in solution to your performance and reliability needs without V-8 engine swap expense and hassle"! Not much else to say about that just my opinion though. But good luck it sounds like you will have your hands full either way.
Hmmm some of those engines are expensive...whats the difference in the first ones and the shortblocks? Huge price differences
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2001 vert:
Suspension: Eibach Pro kit, Tokico Blue Shocks and Struts, MM CC Plates, LCA, rear sway bar
Performance: Mass Air System, True Dual exhaust, intake spacer, built jmodded tranny
Mods currently either sitting at home being shipped: Fully ported and polished Heads and intake, 218/224 cam, 4.10 gears with detroit locker, HID kit and Zex kit
Forget trying to make it a V-8, if you want a V-8 your definetely better off getting a GT after labor and parts etc. I would recommend keeping the 6 and puttin a few bucks into it. But if you are looking to get the most out of your car and your obviously not afraid of swapping check out supersixmotorsports for their 3.8 long rod or 4.3 long rod stroker crate engines. They are rated at 280-390 NA - 550+ hp not to mention the fact that they can handle a 200 shot or something like 20 psi of boost. So you'd get more power than a V-8 NA not to mention that you have much more room to play around with forced induction and nitrous if you ever come across some money. There exact words are "long rod 4.3 stroker crate engines are the simple bolt in solution to your performance and reliability needs without V-8 engine swap expense and hassle"! Not much else to say about that just my opinion though. But good luck it sounds like you will have your hands full either way.
You could just drop 4.2/4.3 crate in and will work but you still have to address frame, suspension, and rear end issues if you want the car to last.
The v6's were not made to handle a great deal of power, hence why they are cheaper, for a v6 to handle a great deal of power you must address almost every aspect of the car, not just the motor.
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2002 v6 manual, SSM P&P Heads, Comp Cam from SSM, and some other stuff full list in profile.
214 RWHP, 215 RWTQ
"The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so" -Ronald Reagan
exactly, if you want a huge power gain your lookin at a huge project. Like I said I would just stick with what you got and work on that. You can beat GT's after addressing the potential of your V6.
You could also check into supersix's Stage 2, stage 2+ or even there stage 3 (no2/sc/tc mostly) powerpaks since your not shy with your money. They range between $1900-$2700 and should give you between 70-90 hp based on your setup. You can get to a V-8 hp range much quicker and cheaper with your engine than trying to swap.
exactly, if you want a huge power gain your lookin at a huge project. Like I said I would just stick with what you got and work on that. You can beat GT's after addressing the potential of your V6.
You could also check into supersix's Stage 2, stage 2+ or even there stage 3 (no2/sc/tc mostly) powerpaks since your not shy with your money. They range between $1900-$2700 and should give you between 70-90 hp based on your setup. You can get to a V-8 hp range much quicker and cheaper with your engine than trying to swap.
And it's just not the same satisfaction when you beat a V-8 with a V-8 but when you beat a V-8 with your V-6 then its a good day
Amen to beating a V8 w/ a V6!!!
its even more satisfing eating ricers, then have them pull up next to and telling them its a V6 (there are a lot of Tc's at my college, and they all know my car)
exactly, if you want a huge power gain your lookin at a huge project. Like I said I would just stick with what you got and work on that. You can beat GT's after addressing the potential of your V6.
You could also check into supersix's Stage 2, stage 2+ or even there stage 3 (no2/sc/tc mostly) powerpaks since your not shy with your money. They range between $1900-$2700 and should give you between 70-90 hp based on your setup. You can get to a V-8 hp range much quicker and cheaper with your engine than trying to swap.
And it's just not the same satisfaction when you beat a V-8 with a V-8 but when you beat a V-8 with your V-6 then its a good day
Im thinking Stage 2 cams will be for me. Its 70 hp bhp right? not to the wheels?
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2001 vert:
Suspension: Eibach Pro kit, Tokico Blue Shocks and Struts, MM CC Plates, LCA, rear sway bar
Performance: Mass Air System, True Dual exhaust, intake spacer, built jmodded tranny
Mods currently either sitting at home being shipped: Fully ported and polished Heads and intake, 218/224 cam, 4.10 gears with detroit locker, HID kit and Zex kit
They say you should get up to 80hp from the stage 2 and I believe its bhp I could be wrong but I can't imagine that its rwhp. A limited slip differential will help put it to the wheels though. Stage 2 is probably your best choice granted you don't have an automatic 3.8 and you don't plan on adding sc/tc or nitrous.
They say you should get up to 80hp from the stage 2 and I believe its bhp I could be wrong but I can't imagine that its rwhp. A limited slip differential will help put it to the wheels though. Stage 2 is probably your best choice granted you don't have an automatic 3.8 and you don't plan on adding sc/tc or nitrous.
yeah its Bhp and I am thinking 80 might be a little high but 70-75 for the full pack for sure. For RWhp I will let yall know when I install mine in two weeks
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2002 v6 manual, SSM P&P Heads, Comp Cam from SSM, and some other stuff full list in profile.
214 RWHP, 215 RWTQ
"The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so" -Ronald Reagan
They say you should get up to 80hp from the stage 2 and I believe its bhp I could be wrong but I can't imagine that its rwhp. A limited slip differential will help put it to the wheels though. Stage 2 is probably your best choice granted you don't have an automatic 3.8 and you don't plan on adding sc/tc or nitrous.