[AnDroy22]

Has anyone had trouble with their cooling fan starting? Mine has not been coming on and I am beginning to have trouble starting my car. I'm fairly sur my fuel pump is good so I think the problem is with my CCRM. Anyone had any trouble with their CCRM that they wanna share?

[GTRaptor]

Mine died on my 95GT, you have to replace it or open it and resolder the correct type or relay into the CCRM.

I did both, first opened the CCRM to check for a bad relay, was bad so i bought a similar relay at a electronics shop.
Later i got a new replacement, the fixed CCRM is under my seat for emergencies

[AnDroy22]

Hey Rob...What were some of the symptoms you were having that let you know the relay was going bad? Also...was it difficult to get the proper relay? I am thinking about getting a salveaged one from this one site that I get all my parts from...but if I can do it myself, I would like to try. The one you keep under your seat...did it respond properly to the EEC? Thanks.

AnDroy

[GTRaptor]

The cooling fan went out, but tested it and was ok, so next suspect was CCRM.
Opened it and surely the relay was burnt.
A friend of mine that deals with electronic components got me a replacement that cost around $5.
Just had to solder the replacement, probably 20 minutes of work

And yes, performs exactly the same as the original.

[AnDroy22]

Yeah...I just got a new cooling fan and motor. I don't know what else it would be if it isn't the CCRM. Also, there is a fuel pump relay in the CCRM...Did you notice any problems in that area? I have my relay out...was the relay visually burnt or did you have to test it with the light screw driver? (brain-fart...can't remember the correct name of the damn "light screwdriver")

[Tina1015]

Hey guys, I have also just found out the CCRM in my 95GT is out, is this something my husband can replace with out a lot of complications?

[stang9666]

Yes this is easy its in the inside fender well on the passenger side, remove the air intake tube and reach in the two holes and there are two 11mm bolts holding it in place, and then one 5 or 6 mm bolt hold the wiring harness to it and then you just pull it out. I replaced mine and it broke the next day, due to the fan having a short in it, so I would be sure that is the problem, but I got mine at the junk yard for 50 bucks and they took it back.

[stang9666]

Hey do you know which relay it was there is three of them in there. I'm looking at it from the veiw of the wire plug facing me which one would it be.

[JesusOnIceSkate]

Hey guys thanks for posting info on this topic, especially Rob...I'm having exact some problem and will be working on the car tonight....no fan when AC is on, and fan doesn't kick in until car very hot...
Question:
Which is the relay in the CCRM that's causing all the funk in stang9666's case, and where is the CCRM/what does it look like?
Where is the 'FAN CONTROL'?
BTW: Here are steps for isolating problem when fan doesn't turn on when AC turned on (95 GT):
Possible Source(s):
§ Constant Control Relay Module damaged.
§ Fan Control (FC) circuitry damaged.
§ Cooling fan motor (8C607) damaged.

G1: CHECK VOLTAGE SUPPLY TO CONTROL FAN
l Start engine and run until normal operating temperature is achieved.
l Turn engine OFF, leave ignition switch in RUN position.
l Actuate A/C damper door switch to MAX A/C position.
l Access the constant control relay module (CCRM).
l Using a test lamp, back-probe Pin 1 Circuit 229 (R/O) and Pin 2 Circuit 229 (R/O) for voltage.
Did test lamp illuminate?
Yes
GO to «G2».
No
GO to «G3».

G2: CHECK FAN GROUND CIRCUIT
l Using an ohmmeter connected to a known good ground, connect second lead Circuit 57 (BK) at fan control connector.
l Is resistance five ohms or less?
Yes
GO to «G5».
No
SERVICE fan control ground circuit for open circuit. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.

G3: BACK-PROBE FOR VOLTAGE SUPPLY TO CONSTANT CONTROL RELAY MODULE (CCRM)
l Using a test lamp, back-probe Pin 3 Circuit 38 (BK/O) for voltage.
l Did test lamp illuminate?
Yes
GO to «G5».
No
GO to «G4».

G4: CHECK FUSE (60A)
l Using test lamp, check both sides of fuse (60A).
l Is fuse OK?
Yes
SERVICE Circuit 38 (BK/O) for open circuit. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.
No
SERVICE Circuit 38 (BK/O) for short circuit. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.

G5: CHECK FAN CONTROL
l Disconnect fan control.
l Using a No. 10 gauge jumper wire, connect one end to B+. Connect other end to low speed fan control terminal at fan control.
l Using a second jumper wire, connect one end to a good ground, connect the other end to the ground terminal on the blower motor.
l Did fan control run?
Yes
SERVICE Circuit 229 (R/O) for open circuit. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.
No
REPLACE fan control. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.

[orrwhat1]

I have a 95 3.8 ltr that when i went out this am would not start. put a jumper on it, as soon as it got power i could here clicking coming from Constant Control Relay Module. after i took the charger off it continued to click till the battery was dead.

[pretty_princess]

I've just recently had the exact same problem. My 01 Mustang began overheating last weekend. We put coolant in it and had a friend of mine reset the Service Engine light. In the process when I turned my AC on we heard this loud banging noise under the hood. So upon taking it apart we found that the radiator fan assembly was cracked. Aparently in the short amount of time from the crack and me hearing the noise and tearing it apart, it blew my constant control module relay. So I've had to replace the CCRM now and I am in the process of looking for a replacement fan asembly. My mechanic explained to me that the fan being off center, it was sending signals to the module in the wrong interval, therefore the module was blown. However when I was stranded 65 miles from my house, I went to a garage I was unfamiliar with and they said that I could have gotten back home with the fan cracked and it would not do anymore damage. Upon reading these other forums and talking to my mechanic that I trust, I found out that was not the case and had I drove all the way home instead of towing, I would have done more damage to the car. At the same time, I'm angry with the BF, b/c he had the fan out and could have replaced it when this first began, but he decided to "GLUE" the broken pieces of plastic. So as I read these posts and they talk about how the fan assembly is balanced by the manufacturer, this was not his best idea. Especially since now he's telling me to find just the fan blade to replace and not the entire assembly. I'm correcting in wanting the entire assembly replaced, right?

[shinerstang]

It is best to replace the assembly, but you can use just about any fan as long as it is close to the same size. You might have to cut/splice the wires, but it works. It has been done a million times by racers.....

Fans could get spicey from dealers, but not sure about AP stores. I never bought one, and if I needed one, we have a few cars around to swap it out with......

[dogsstang66]

my 98 mustang is a v6 and my air condition stoped working well it only comes out the vent closes to the window we traced it back to the ccrm but i cant find where to buy a cheap one also my car kept getting over heated when i first bought it in 05 so i replaced the thermostat now my radiator is cracked just havent replaced it you think the radiator could have possible been caused by my ccrm?

[Markstang690]

Originally Posted by dogsstang66

my 98 mustang is a v6 and my air condition stoped working well it only comes out the vent closes to the window we traced it back to the ccrm but i cant find where to buy a cheap one also my car kept getting over heated when i first bought it in 05 so i replaced the thermostat now my radiator is cracked just havent replaced it you think the radiator could have possible been caused by my ccrm?

when ur air conditioning gets stuck on defroster vents only usually its a vacuum line leak