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1979-2004 V6 Mustang Tech Discussions

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Unread 11-09-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Question Towing My Mustang

Okay I'm towing my Mustang 1100 miles from Idaho to California. I have a couple options. A Tow Dolly is $228, Auto Transport is $457, and a Tow Bar. The Auto Transport is way too much and not worth it. The Tow Bar I can buy for $150. The Cheapest option.

So it's between the Tow Dolly and the Tow Bar. If I tow with the Tow Dolly I'm going to tow it with the rear wheels up on the dolly to avoid disconnecting the drive shaft. (I don't even know where to begin to do this) Now I was told somewhere else that you should NOT lock the steering wheel. He said to put the key in and turn it just slightly to unlock the steering. Is this correct?

Now the cheapest root is the Tow Bar. However this would require me to disconnect the drive shaft.

Also how does the Mustang add miles to the odometer. Is it with the rear or front wheels?

Thanks guys! I'm looking for any advice on what I should do. Recommendations, Warnings, etc...!
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Unread 11-10-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Default towing

Here is what the 04 manual says:
TRAILER TOWING
Your vehicle is not equipped to tow. No towing
packages are available through Ford or
Lincoln/Mercury dealers.
RECREATIONAL TOWING (ALL WHEELS ON
THE GROUND)
Follow these guidelines for your specific powertrain
combination to tow your vehicle with all four wheels
on the ground (such as behind a recreational
vehicle).
These guidelines are designed to ensure that your
transmission is not damaged due to insufficient
lubrication.
All Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) vehicles:
This applies to all cars and 4x2 trucks/sport utilities
with rear wheel drive capability.
Place the transmission in N (Neutral)
Maximum speed is 35 mph (56 km/h)
Maximum distance is 50 miles (80 km)


If a distance of 50 miles (80 km) or a speed of 35 mph
(56 km/h) must be exceeded, you must disconnect the
driveshaft. Ford recommends the driveshaft be
removed/installed only by a qualified technician. See
your local dealer for driveshaft removal/installation.
Improper removal/installation of the driveshaft
can cause transmission fluid loss, damage to
the driveshaft and internal transmission
components.
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Unread 11-10-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smashedpumpkins View Post
Okay I'm towing my Mustang 1100 miles from Idaho to California. I have a couple options. A Tow Dolly is $228, Auto Transport is $457, and a Tow Bar. The Auto Transport is way too much and not worth it. The Tow Bar I can buy for $150. The Cheapest option.

So it's between the Tow Dolly and the Tow Bar. If I tow with the Tow Dolly I'm going to tow it with the rear wheels up on the dolly to avoid disconnecting the drive shaft. (I don't even know where to begin to do this) Now I was told somewhere else that you should NOT lock the steering wheel. He said to put the key in and turn it just slightly to unlock the steering. Is this correct?

Now the cheapest root is the Tow Bar. However this would require me to disconnect the drive shaft.

Also how does the Mustang add miles to the odometer. Is it with the rear or front wheels?

Thanks guys! I'm looking for any advice on what I should do. Recommendations, Warnings, etc...!
I'm guessing that your car is an auto, because if it's a stick then you can tow it with the rear wheels on the ground and not disconnect the driveshaft.

If your towing it with the front wheels down I would lock the steering wheel. Otherwise you'll look like a fish driving down the hwy.
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Unread 11-10-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Yeah that's what my manual says. As for my stang yep it's an Auto. So locking the wheel won't brake the steering column or anything? Anyone with experience? Thanks guys!

EDIT: Here's what a guy said "You can tow with the rear wheels up, however its not recommended. You do not lock the steering wheel, because if you do that you'll end up with a broken steering column lock. Those locks are not made to withstand the stress of towing. Its always best to tow with the front end up."
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Unread 11-10-2008   #5 (permalink)
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1,100 miles? Get the auto transport. I will be cheaper on you in the long run than doing damage to the car. Besides, if you take out the driveshaft on an automatic, you will lose all the tranny fluid out the tailshaft. You would have to leave the driveshaft in and tie it up so it won't slip out on the highway.


Hands down the best way to go other than having a buddy drive it......
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Unread 11-10-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smashedpumpkins View Post
Yeah that's what my manual says. As for my stang yep it's an Auto. So locking the wheel won't brake the steering column or anything? Anyone with experience? Thanks guys!

EDIT: Here's what a guy said "You can tow with the rear wheels up, however its not recommended. You do not lock the steering wheel, because if you do that you'll end up with a broken steering column lock. Those locks are not made to withstand the stress of towing. Its always best to tow with the front end up."
Shiners got a good point, but if your hell bent on towing it with the front wheels down you could turn the key on to unlock the steering wheel and use a ratchet strap to hold the steering wheel relatively straight. I've towed a Dodge 1500 that way and it worked fairly well. Don't go over 55 though.
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Unread 11-12-2008   #7 (permalink)
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Yeah so I say screw it :-P. I'm gonna get the Auto Transport. It dropped $40 too. Question though!

Brakes... What brakes does the Uhaul Auto Transport have? Does it have the built in brakes that don't connect to my truck? (Surge brakes I think they're called?) Or do I need to get a brake controller to hook it to my trucks brakes?
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Unread 11-12-2008   #8 (permalink)
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You would have to call them to find out.......
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