[requena79]

Hi there - I've got a 2000 mustang with a cobra kit, and it's lowered. I'm not exactly sure how it was lowered, it's how I got it - anyway, it looks great. But - bump, bump, bump, bump. Sometimes it feels like I'm about to get sea sick.

Plus driving over some of the nastier nicks in the road - bit too much of a bump, so I have learnt to go slowly over the uglier bumps, which well... it isn't really very mustang is it? if you have to ease it all over the place, whilst trying not to vomit.

I'd like to see how I get along with it over the next few weeks and will aim at keeping it lowered, my question is - are their any adjustments I can make to help? can I go partially lowered perhaps, or do something to the suspension to make things less bumpy?

A thank you.
Mark.

[shinerstang]

That is the trade off for lowering your car. It makes them ride like crap. You could try better shocks/struts, but that's about it.....

[requena79]

thanks. i'm getting used to it. I found adjusting my seat so i'm lower helps a little. but for the most part i'm getting used to it which is something. I can feel it handles real well around corners i'm sure lowering has helped improve that

thanks

[b1lk1]

Sounds like it may have been done by a hack who cut the springs instead of properly installing lowering springs.

[requena79]

So one thing I could do - is look and see if the spings have been cut then?

And if they've been cut, buy the recommended lowering springs?

How many hours would this take a garage to do on average?

[Stanger98]

Originally Posted by b1lk1

Sounds like it may have been done by a hack who cut the springs instead of properly installing lowering springs.

Wrong. that's what happens when you get lowering springs. And if he still has stock shocks and struts they have the incorrect compression and rebound for lowering springs.

Originally Posted by requena79

So one thing I could do - is look and see if the spings have been cut then?

And if they've been cut, buy the recommended lowering springs?

How many hours would this take a garage to do on average?

you can look but I highly doubt they've been cut.

There are plenty of lowering springs you can go with, it just depends on how low of a drop you want. I've got a 2.5" drop with my eibach's with no isos...

Shouldn't take more than 3-5 hours for the basic do it yourselfer. Just make sure you have the correct tools, such as a spring compressor, it'll save a lot of time as well as make it much safer to complete because when you try to remove the springs, they're going to have a load on them, the last thing you want is to get hit by a compressed spring, and I'm speaking from experience here as a mechanic, it's painful.

[requena79]

am I able to take pictures of the shocks / suspension - would this enable you guys to tell me what I need to do to get rid of the jerky / bouncyness?

Thanks,
Mark.

[Stanger98]

Originally Posted by requena79

am I able to take pictures of the shocks / suspension - would this enable you guys to tell me what I need to do to get rid of the jerky / bouncyness?

Thanks,
Mark.

i don't see why not. But were not going to be able to tell a lot since we're not there...

[Beansss95]

When I first bought mine it did the exact same. It had the eibachs (spelling) also. When I went to get it lined up the mechanic told me it also needed the strut adjusters up on top. My front tires jumped to an upside down ^ when the front end was lifted. the parts it needed were like 500.00 plus laber. So I went back to factory springs. rides like it should now. Plus my tires last alot longer now. I couldnt really tell the difference in the height after changing back either. Considering I live somewhere out in BFE, it takes a few m iles before I can get onto a smooth road, so its up to you if you want to possibly change back to stock springs.

[requena79]

I think i'd like to find out if I have stock springs and struts and if I do then to buy lowered versions which hopefully arn't too expensive.

that or maybe raise it up a notch if this is possible - which might take out some of the bump

[Stanger98]

Originally Posted by Beansss95

When I first bought mine it did the exact same. It had the eibachs (spelling) also. When I went to get it lined up the mechanic told me it also needed the strut adjusters up on top. My front tires jumped to an upside down ^ when the front end was lifted. the parts it needed were like 500.00 plus laber. So I went back to factory springs. rides like it should now. Plus my tires last alot longer now. I couldnt really tell the difference in the height after changing back either. Considering I live somewhere out in BFE, it takes a few m iles before I can get onto a smooth road, so its up to you if you want to possibly change back to stock springs.

Caster/Camber Plates should not cost that much at all. And when they're set correctly, they reduce wear big time, and effectively increase handling.

[requena79]

what are caster / camber plates?

[Stanger98]

read:
Caster Camber Plate Installation

[requena79]

ok will do

I need to find out what the cars got on it first, for sure. before buying new springs and paying loads of $ and messing around.

Trying to think of the best place to take it to so they can look and analyze preferably without ripping everything apart (more $)

If anyone can suggest what I should do it'd be appreciated.

Here's a few pics (crap taken at night) not that this'll help!

http://www.vinemedia.net/clients/pics/1.JPG
http://www.vinemedia.net/clients/pics/2.JPG
http://www.vinemedia.net/clients/pics/3.JPG

[Stanger98]

definitely not stock ride height that's for sure. Take the wheels off and snaps some shots of what you got in there.