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Old 03-26-2009   #1 (permalink)
Hextro is offline Rookie


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Houston   Texas
Default Laundry list of To-Do's - what do i leave for the Pro's

Hello all,
I have a 1999 V6 manual mustang. Everything is stock except for the exhaust, tires and radio.

I found this little gem 4 years ago with only 28K. In the last 4 years we've put an extra 40k on it. Aside from tires and oil changes I have done nothing to her so TLC is long overdue. I dropped her off today at a garage this mooring. It’s a place where I’ve taken my wife’s car to in the past and they have treated us right. with that said below is the list of to-do's they gave me.

I think i can handle the Red items. I build computers and love any type of hands on project...even cooking sometimes

My tuner experience is an ocasional alternator or waterpump and stereo-amp installs but not much else.

Belt and Tentioner needs to be replaced - original
Rear shocks aren’t keeping pressure- need to be replaced - original
Radiator hose is brittle – original
Spark plugs/wires - Original
Right Bushing is old (pops a little)- replacement needed
Alignment has never been done
Tranny fluid is dark
Clutch - Pilot bearing???

I initially took the car in because i could tell the steering was not business as usual, (bushing) but the main reason was a constant noise similar to an old/loose belt. The thing about the noise is when I apply any pressure to the clutch the noise/vibration goes away. if i'm at a light and just rest my foot on the clutch the noise is gone. its not much but i know better than to let a problem turn into a disaster.

The clutch part is what i'm really not sure about. Do I spent the $$ on a new clutch or just replace the Pilot/through out bearing?? at 65k miles i may just do the entire clutch.
just not their AC Delco kit for $400...

sorry if the post is too long, i'm trying to be detailed to get good opinions on what i should or should not do myself.

Thanks,

Hextro
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Old 03-27-2009   #2 (permalink)
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The only things I don't really know about, thus might think it would need to be left to a professional, bushings and the clutch pilot bearing. Everything else seems to be pretty doable by yourself or with the help of a friend. Hopefully someone else can chime in and give you a little more info.
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MAC CAI, True Dual Flow 40's w/ MAC Long Tube Headers and turn downs right before the bumper, 15% tint, Eibach pro kit, Tokico HPs, Detroit Tru Trac, FRPP 3.73s, Diablo Predator w/ custom tuned by Mike, v3 vap windstar kit.
Waiting to be installed: Steeda short throw shifter.
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Old 03-27-2009   #3 (permalink)
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What right side bushing are you talking about?

Alignment, unless you have a rack or you are experience with the tape measure (and extremely level floor), then I would take it somewhere.

How do you know the tranny fluid is dark? Isn't this a 5 speed car? Anyways, changing tranny fluid on manual trans stangs is easy. I do it by removing both plugs on the side of the tranny (3/8 square drive heads). And by removing the shifter. This method takes a little longer, but to me its much cleaner, and much easier then running a funnel with a hose from the engine bay. Once the fluid is drained, re-install bottom plug, leave out top plug. Fill the tranny through the shifter hole, it will take about 2.5 quarts of ATF (mercon 5), once it starts draining out of the top plug hole its full. Re-silicone the shifter base and put the shifter back in.

The squeeking is probably the throw-out bearing. My advice is that if you want to change it, you might as well do the whole clutch, you have to pull the trans either way. For $400 you can get a very good performance clutch. I prefer Mcleods myself, the StreePro is what I have, 350 HP holding power, stock pedal feel. Spec also makes very good clutches. I wouldn't really consider anyone else.

Doing it is not too hard. Removing the pilot bearing is probably the biggest pain. I rented a slide hammer from Napa, and used the single finger end.
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90 LX, Previous 4 cyl. (Decommissioned, 351W on the way)
H/C/I+Bolt Ons
Best ET: 12.54@106 mph

2001 V6 5 Speed Daily Driver
Windstar Intake, Dual Exhuast, CAI, Headers
Best ET: 15.6@88 mph (stock trim)
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Old 03-30-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info.
The laundry list came from a garage nearby that gave her a good look. Then gave me a quote for parts/labor. I assume they took the top bolt off and looked at the tranny fluid. We bought the Mercon V but with the sloped garage and no hose really clean enough to change it we passed on it. The gear top method is a great idea though!

I do find it hard to pay $400 for an AC Delco Clutch kit (+ $300 for labor) when I’ve seen stage 1 kits for 2/3 of that price. I'll look into those suggestions for sure.

We changed the hoses, plugs and shocks on Saturday.

The plugs were a bit hard to get do due to my hand size so my female coworker/weekend gear head got in there and took care of business
Looks like someone was lazy and didn't get back to the hard ones cause they were different than the rest and broken...not a fresh break either. Dirty old broken.

The hoses were easy as expected but the Shocks were super easy.
I did some homework on the shocks but could never find a definitive answer about the amount of improvement in ride quality when upgrading to a Monotube shock. I wanted to get Monotubes but the few shops around town didn't have them so I went with the Monroe Sensetrac. It was at the shop, $30 per and way way better than what was on there. The ride difference is amazing.

I'm coming up on my next oil change and was going to get the tranny fluid changed while I was there but StalkerStang that’s a great idea and will save me $30 or so.

So homework time for me with the Clutch.
My new questions are:

Is there a considerable difference in city driving from the SenseTrac to a Monotube rear shock?
Is it worth paying the extra for the complete K&N air kit or will getting just the bottom portion of the K&N give most of the upgrade?

Thanks again for the info.

Hex
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Old 03-30-2009   #5 (permalink)
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The K&N air kit, assuming you are refering to a Cold Air Intake isn't worth the money. Anyone on here will tell you that you get just as much of a performance gain with the ebay or Americanmuscle.com kits for a third of the price. I've actually seen the dyno test to prove it and its unimpressive for K&N really. Good luck with the to-do list.
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Old 03-30-2009   #6 (permalink)
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I think if you want to upgrade the shocks past a Sensatrac, then just save until you can afford some Koni's or Bilstein's. Other then that its just a waste of money.

Yeah the K&N kits are expensive thats for sure. I have the BBK kit. I've always liked them.
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Jesse Berger
90 LX, Previous 4 cyl. (Decommissioned, 351W on the way)
H/C/I+Bolt Ons
Best ET: 12.54@106 mph

2001 V6 5 Speed Daily Driver
Windstar Intake, Dual Exhuast, CAI, Headers
Best ET: 15.6@88 mph (stock trim)
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Old 04-03-2009   #7 (permalink)
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I bought a $50 ebay job for the CAI and should have it in today or tomorrow. Most likely will get the alighment done this weekend too. It really is amazing how much working on your own car changes they way you feel about her.

I lived in at a place with underground parking, super locked up with only two gates and no side entrances but still managed to get my amp, radio, golf clubs etc.. stolen 3 times in two years. I've moved but the damage was done and my car was tainted. I didnt wash her or do anything to her (other than oil changes) in months. now that I put my own shocks on and changed the plugs i can feel the difference and am enjoying reading up on the next project to take on. i'm glad i didnt just drop the money to have someone else do this stuff cause i'd most likely be pissed about the car now being a money pit. I did save a few hundred, but more important is i really like my car again.

Whats the deal with the windows rolling up passed the ideal stopping point? When the door is shut there is a slight gap in the window. I've learned to shut the door by pushing on the top corner of the window but passangers always have to try a second time unless i roll it down a 1/4 inch or so.


Thanks and happy Friday,

hex
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Old 04-07-2009   #8 (permalink)
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I installed the CAI today but feel unsure about it. I followed the directions and the install itself was easy and straight forward. two things bug me about it though.

First thing is the connection from the air hose to the engine. there was/is such a little bit of hose that connected. i drove it around for about 15 minutes after letting it idle for about the same and the ride was smooth. The clamps are securely in place but it took a lot more muscle to get everything into position.

The second thing is a slight whistle when going over about 3500 rpm. its clearly the new CAI drawing air in. The sound is from the passenger side and only makes the noise when accelerating at a pretty fast rate. it wasn't until i put the pedal down when this sound showed up. it lasts for just a second around 40mph in second and again at about 70mph in 3rd.



I've hosted a few pics of the install at

1999 Mustang pics

it feels like less gas is needed to get out of first and also seemed more responsive. but I'm driving 300+ miles this coming weekend and would hate to have something happen between Houston and Dallas at 1am!!

Thanks for all your help so far.

Hex
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