I need a new clutch

reynitababy · 03-30-2009

Just ruined my clutch. I need something that i can beat on you know? all stock right now but plan on putting in a dual exhaust cold air intake and new throttle body. with those upgrades what kind of clutch would you guys recommend. did a search but not exactly finding what i need to know. seen stage 1 and stage 2 spec clutches and seen the aluminum and steel flywheels. my thinking leads me to go with the more expensive ones is this correct or can i go overboard? thanks for all ur help

05horse · 03-30-2009

dont go past stage 2 clutch

shinerstang · 03-30-2009

Look up gripfoce stage2 on ebay. I put one in 2 years' ago, and have literally pounded the $rap out of it at the track with no issues. The price was the same as a stock replacement. Make sure you get your flywheel resurfaced......

An aluminum flywheel help with rotational mass, but using one at the track actually decreases your 60fts......

05horse · 03-31-2009

im either gonna go with the spec stage one or centerforce II

i think the CF DF maybe a bit much

StalkerStang · 03-31-2009

I know the rest of you are probably tired of hearing me talk about them, but... Don't overlook Mcleod, they are awesome clutches. I have the Street Pro in mine. Stock pedal feel.

reynitababy · 03-31-2009

sO I UNDERSTAND THAT ANYTHING PAST STAge 2 for my needs is overkill and that the brand of clutch is going to be purely opinion based on experience right? Now with the fly wheel, is it a good idea to get the lightweight one or will the steel suffice? (again for my needs) Also, should I be concerned with changing the cable and quadrant too? Lastly, I have been driving my car real easy with the clutch tore up it slips real bad should i be concerned with tearing the rest of my car up? What are the consequences driving on a melted clutch?

StalkerStang · 03-31-2009

I would just get your stock flywheel re-surfaced. Putting an aluminum one on is going to make the car harder to slow down and like Tom said, its probably going to kill your 60 ft. times.

If you can afford to do a clutch cable/quadrant and adjuster, it will make a noticeable difference and allow you do adjust the clutch. I have the Maximum Motorsports kit on my 01 and I like it a lot.

If the clutch is just starting to show signs of wear, it will last a little bit before its done. But if you keep on driving it and don't replace the clutch, there will be no friction material left on the disc and it will begin to chew up the flywheel. It can also get hot enough at that point to melt the throw-out bearing to the pressure plate and bearing retainer on the tranny. Then its a pain in the @ss to get it out.

Like this one...

Big Daddy's Stang> · 03-31-2009

My throw out bearing was worst than that one and I can't belive that the clutch looked like new including the pressure plate, on mine the little balls were gonna...

reynitababy · 03-31-2009

So I'm not sure what the consensus on the aluminum vs. steel flywheel is? What are the 60 ft times you guys are talking about? Do you mean that i wont be able to slow my car down on downshift or what? I heard that i will get better acceleration with the aluminum and that is what i am looking for.

Big Daddy's Stang> · 03-31-2009

Ok, so what's your recommendation? Stalker?

StalkerStang · 03-31-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Daddy's Stang>

and 60ft time is when you start from 0 which it doesn't matter to me cuz the distance is too short.....

Your 60 ft. tells a lot about how well you got off the line and the acceleration of your vehicle. Generally the lower your 60 ft. times, the better your ET will be. Thats why an 03 Cobra that ran a 2.2 60 ft. only went 13.9 where one that had a 1.7 or 1.6 50 ft. will probably do 12.50's or 12.40's. Sixty foots matter if you want a good ET at the drag strip.

An aluminum flywheel will help the vehicle rev up quickly, and allow you to accelerate a little quicker. However, since the aluminum flywheel is much lighter then a steel one, the inertia that the flywheel exerts is much less. The inertia that the steel flywheel makes will help get the car going from a high load (dead stop). It will also help stop the car because the engine will have that inertia helping to slow the engine down, aka engine braking, which also slows the car down (when in gear).

An aluminum flywheels has very little engine braking ability. So you will have to rely on the actual brakes more often.

reynitababy · 03-31-2009

Thanks for all ur help. From the searching and information that I have been gathering I'm thinking about going with a stage 2 clutch prolly spec with an aluminum fly wheel. Not 100 on the fly wheel though. From what i gather I am going to sacrifice braking for acceleration with the aluminum and that is all. Not concerned too much with stopping anyways you know? Does that mean i am going to have significant brake wear or should i not be too concerned with the negative of the aluminum? I want speed.

StalkerStang · 03-31-2009

Like I said the biggest problem with the aluminum as far as acceleration is that when you launch the car, if its not near perfect launch, then its going to fall on its face.

Plus its just that much more money to spend on something that won't really make that much difference. Gears and a t-lok would be a much better place to spend that money.

cmaurer1 · 04-01-2009

^I have aluminum d/s and flywheel. I agree that launching it is a bit tricky to get used to at first. The lightweight one is really lightweight.. lol You will have to launch it at a bit higher rpm with it unless you want it to bog down.

I disagree with the part about braking though. If anything I have to use the brakes less now. The engine is able to wind up and down quicker due to the lighter weight so my engine brakes very rapidly now when I downshift a gear. That is my experience compared to stock.

I just drove another V6 without aluminum d/s or flywheel this weekend, I will never go back... lol It felt like a dog trying to get it up and going at times.

232-K7 · 04-01-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmaurer1

I disagree with the part about braking though. If anything I have to use the brakes less now. The engine is able to wind up and down quicker due to the lighter weight so my engine brakes very rapidly now when I downshift a gear. That is my experience compared to stock.

i agree, it feels like the engine also decelerates quicker when coasting in gear...
i havent launched it at the track yet, so i'll have to see how my 60ft's are.
acceleration feels much better now, i probably couldnt throw the old flywheel over a fence it was so heavy. the old driveshaft wasnt too heavy, but the aluminum is still a good bit lighter. my car feels much better after having done those mods.