Well It had been about 75k miles on the front pads since they had been changed and my dad asked me to look at his brakes. The pads were worn past the pad on one and almost on the rest of the 3 pads. Fairly consistent. While pushing the pistons back out of the calipers, it was very difficult. Much force needed to be applied. I put new pads/rotors on, new slides and pins. Everything seemed to be good. I went for a test drive and the brakes overheated on my little 3 minute run. I then jacked the frontend up again and the wheel was very hard to move.
The brakes seemed to be stuck on. I then figured my calipers were shot from the brake pads being worn out too much. So I bought 2 new calipers and brake hoses- and installed them and bleed them. The fluid was very dirty that came out. I then took it for a test drive and the brakes were basically locked again.
Ive searched and came up with a few similar posts with suggestions but the previous posts- the owner never made an update on what the problem was.
Ive seen some posts saying its bad hoses, abs pumps, etc. Does anyone have a suggestion to me as I cant even drive the car to the local shop as Im afraid the brakes will start on fire.
Last edited by JudisStang; 04-06-2009 at 12:23 PM.
Reason: no linking to outside forums. thanks!
Check and make sure the hoses are routed the right way and not twisted. This sounds like a bit of a strange problem, especially with the new calipers. My first guess would be it may be the wrong pads (too thick) or the rotor isn't centered right. Was anything done to the rotors when you did the job? I'm not sure how you can test the abs computer, but it seems odd that it would start when you simply swap pads.
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That hunk of junk? Yeah, well I've made a few special modifications to that yellow 99 Gt, it makes the Kessel run in 12 parsecs and eats turbo japs and poops chevy's
Did you grease the slide pins? You have to use "high-temperature brake caliper grease", available at your local auto parts store.
The master cylinder should be bled (two bleed screws on the engine side of the master cylinder) after you bleed the four corners. IIRC, the rear bleeder is for the fronts and the front bleeder is for the rears.
You mentioned that the fluid was dirty. Maybe some scale has broken loose and has clogged up something in the hydraulic system. The fluid should be replaced every 2 years, imo, or more frequently if you put a lot of stop-and-go miles on your car.
GL and please post back with an update.
Chris
p.s.--Welcome to AFM!
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Check and make sure the hoses are routed the right way and not twisted. This sounds like a bit of a strange problem, especially with the new calipers. My first guess would be it may be the wrong pads (too thick) or the rotor isn't centered right. Was anything done to the rotors when you did the job? I'm not sure how you can test the abs computer, but it seems odd that it would start when you simply swap pads.
I actually first thought the pads were too thick and returned them and tried the highest grade pads but that didnt do anything. The new rotors measured the same as the old ones
Did you grease the slide pins? You have to use "high-temperature brake caliper grease", available at your local auto parts store.
The master cylinder should be bled (two bleed screws on the engine side of the master cylinder) after you bleed the four corners. IIRC, the rear bleeder is for the fronts and the front bleeder is for the rears.
You mentioned that the fluid was dirty. Maybe some scale has broken loose and has clogged up something in the hydraulic system. The fluid should be replaced every 2 years, imo, or more frequently if you put a lot of stop-and-go miles on your car.
GL and please post back with an update.
Chris
p.s.--Welcome to AFM!
I used the old pins with lube and then I bought new pins and lubed them. I also tried 2 different brands of the brake hardware clips including the originals that were on there. Im not sure how to bleed the master- just a average mechanic trying to save money. Ive done about 25 brake jobs and never have had a problem, never had to change calipers and such.
Im basically ready to give up and take it to a shop but Id have to get the car towed because it isnt driveable. I had a buddy who works at a brake shop look at it and he just stares at it sayin Ive never seen this.
Check the abs sensor and its ring, its possible, but unlikey, that the sensor is off or the ring has so much crud it always reads wheel lock-up.
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That hunk of junk? Yeah, well I've made a few special modifications to that yellow 99 Gt, it makes the Kessel run in 12 parsecs and eats turbo japs and poops chevy's
I just came in and checked the abs sensor thats attached to the inside of the mudshield. It seemed fine. I also took the abs fuse out and tried to push the pistons on the calipers back in to see if that would work and once i hit the brake the brakes were locked up in the front again.
I put the old worn out pads back in also and the calipers locked those pads up too.
There is enough room on the calipers where when i install the pads and calipers that the rotor spins freely until you hit the brake.
Bleeding the m/c is easy as pie. Hook a piece of tubing to the bleeder plug and have your assistant step on the brake pedal until all the bubbles are out. Refill the reservoir, as needed. Do the second bleeder, refill the reservoir, and test drive.
Check Maximum Motorsports website, too. They have (had) a write-up on adjusting the master cylinder "bolt". If the slide is not going in all the way when the brake pedal is released then the pressure will not relieve and the calipers will stay locked. (Like you, I'm just an average wrench-head. My advice: if this brake trouble persists, take the car to the shop and let them work their magic. Brakes are "too necessary" to not have them working perfectly.). I'll go thumb through my Haynes manual (1998 model) to see if there are any hot tips.
Unless you bench-filled the new calipers, its likely that they still have air in them.
I am moving this thread to the V6 section, since you mention this is a V6 car, in hopes that maybe there is something unique that someone knows there. Have you verified the correct parts were sold to you? I have seen parts people make some wild mistakes...
I would also suspect that you might have a line obstruction or pinch.
Can you take some pics of the calipers on the car?
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There still could be alittle air in the new calipers but it shouldnt be much. The parts seem correct. All were correct part numbers and all of the boxes were sealed. Ill try and get some pics
I'm guessing there is some sort of problem with the abs or the master cylinder if it locked up after putting the old pads back in. Its obviously not at the wheels.
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That hunk of junk? Yeah, well I've made a few special modifications to that yellow 99 Gt, it makes the Kessel run in 12 parsecs and eats turbo japs and poops chevy's
you need a special tool to open the calipers after putting new pads in. you MUST use this tool or risk breaking your calipers.
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2000 Mustang 3.8 Brakes locked up after brake job 
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