[reynitababy]

Never did anything this serious on a car before. Need some help here guys. Got a 98 mustang V6. Been looking at some things online and got an idea of what is going on down there but would like to have more info. Does anyone have any websites with diagrams, pics, etc...

[232-K7]

this is actually a pretty easy job if you have everything you need.


are you getting an aftermarket clutch, or an oem?
if you go aftermarket, i highly recommend getting an adjustable clutch cable.
make sure the clutch kit comes with a pilot bearing and throwout bearing.
are you buying a new flywheel or resurfacing your old one?
also, i would suggest replacing your rear main seal while you have the transmission and flywheel out of the way; it might not be leaking right now, but if it starts leaking at any other time it will be an absolute nuisance to pull everything back apart just to do that seal.

for tools, you'll need a 3/8 ratchet, metric & sae sockets (3/8 drive), a prybar about a foot long, a VERY LONG 3/8 extension, about 4 feet long...you can just take 3 or 4 regular sized extensions and stack them. whatever works for you. also, a 3/8 torque wrench; 10-100 ftlbs range is best.
other than that, some loctite, a can of brake clean, and some caliper grease and 7mm drift punch for your rear main seal. also, you'll need some black rtv silicone for your shifter since it needs to be removed. and, keep a quart of atf handy, you'll lose some trans fluid when you remove your driveshaft. if you should happen to have an extra yoke lying around that fits your transmission, you can put that into the tailshaft to minimize fluid loss. if not, a rag and some paper towels should work until you get the transmission on level ground. just be careful not to mess up the rubber seal in the tailshaft.
that should be your complete list of stuff necessary to get the job done.

if you dont have a lift and a trans jack, get a friend or two to help you drop the transmission. you'll need a friend anyway to hold the prybar for you while you disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch fork.

a basic rundown of steps;
disconnect the negative battery cable
remove your shifter, 4 bolts holding it on.
remove your exhaust midpipe
disconnect and remove your starter.
remove your transmissions dust shield (1) 3/8" bolt holding it on
remove the (4) 12mm bolts (you need a 6-point socket or box end wrench for this) on your driveshaft u-joint. (use some PB blaster, those bolts are very tight)
remove driveshaft by sliding it out of the tailshaft of the transmission.
loosend the transmission crossmember, (2) 14mm bolts, i believe.
remove the lower bellhousing bolts, (15mm) when the tranny dips down a little it will pull the motor down with it, giving you some much-needed room to get the top 2 bellhousing bolts.
negotiate the transmission out of the car.
remove the bolts from the pressure plate.
remove the clutch assembly.
remove the (6) bolts holding on the flywheel.
use either a pilot bearing puller or a slide hammer to remove your pilot bearing.
use a pick to carefully remove the rear main seal.

after all that, installation is the reverse of removal.

flywheel bolts are torqued to 80 ft.lbs.
pressure plate bolts are torqued to 28 ft.lbs.
bellhousing bolts are torqued to 38 ft.lbs.

that may look like a lot, but its not too bad... just give yourself 7-8 hours to get the job done. maybe a full day if you dont have a lift.
just be patient, and good luck

[232-K7]

and btw, all the tools & materials you need to do this job properly can be either loaned or bought from autozone.

[shinerstang]

Thanks 232...... A couple more things: It's a good practice to change the fluid anyway in the tranny anyway. All the bellhousing bolts are 13mm, and you need a 12point, 12mm socket to remove the driveshaft from the rear end.

[StalkerStang]

You actually can pull the trans out by yourself if you have to.

As long as you have a good floor jack, you can support the front of the trans with the floor jack. Then lay on your back with your feet towards the front of the car holding the tail shaft. You can use one of your feet to push on the clutch fork to help release the clutch.

I'm not promoting doing it alone, but if you have to you can. Can you tell what I did?

[232-K7]

Originally Posted by shinerstang

Thanks 232...... A couple more things: It's a good practice to change the fluid anyway in the tranny anyway. All the bellhousing bolts are 13mm, and you need a 12point, 12mm socket to remove the driveshaft from the rear end.

thats a very good point...its much easier to change the fluid with the trans. out of the car; and, by the time your clutch needs replacing your fluid is usually due.
i may be a little fuzzy on some of the sizes. lol i meant to say 12 point, i have no idea why i said 6 point, i just got a little mixed up. total brain fart i guess haha. probably because i rarely use 12point sockets and wrenches for anything, with the exception of ratchet-wrenches.

[reynitababy]

Very precisely put 232. Only a couple of questions. How do I get my mid-pipe off? Its like welded on and ****. I mean I didnt take a good hard look but I'm not sure where to disconnect it from?

[05horse]

ahh the clutch..never thought about a pain mid pipe lol
im ripping in to mine monday when parts get here... stage 2 with CAI and 93 race tune.

keep us posted

[232-K7]

Originally Posted by reynitababy

Very precisely put 232. Only a couple of questions. How do I get my mid-pipe off? Its like welded on and ****. I mean I didnt take a good hard look but I'm not sure where to disconnect it from?

disconnect your o2 sensors;
if you have your factory y-pipe, there are 2 bolts on each manifold flange and another 2 bolts on the y-pipe going to the mufflers. i believe the bolts are 14mm, i have different bolt sizes though, so i cant say for certain. (mine are 15mm).

if your using a lift, an extra pair of hands to help lower it out can be helpful.